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MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical - Sequence of conversion tasks

I've been reading this forum for about a year now and to date haven't posted to it. I've got a 77B that I've pulled the engine and trans out of and I will pick up the Ford 302/T5 donor car next week. I have a pretty good idea of what needs to be done to accomplish the conversion. I saw some of your conversions one evening at the motel in Townsend. (Spent most of my time with my face down in engine compartments or crawling around under the rear bumpers looking at rear suspension setups.) I've got the latest edition of giving your MGB V8 power. I've got past issues of the V8 newsletter and the link to the great new and improved newsletter web site.
So, my question is what is the best sequence of events when doing the conversion. Front suspension upgrade first? Fit the engine and trans first? Fit the Ford reat end first? Center the gas tank first? I have a sequence in mind, but don't want to get down the path a ways and discover I put the cart before the horse.
Is there a particular article in the V8 newsletter or in this BBS archive that I may have overlooked that addresses this?

Steve Melfi
Steve Melfi

Steve,

I just sent you an email.

Cheers

Pete
Pete Mantell


Welcome Steve!

Since you're sensible enough to do good research fast, I'm guessing you're going to get this car together just fine regardless of work sequence or schedule... There aren't any hard and fast rules anyway.

That said, for a Ford conversion you're probably either going to temporarily remove-and-modify the front crossmember or replace it entirely. In either case, I'd recommend doing front-end work first. You probably already know that the Fast Cars suspension can be bought with Ford motor mounts welded on... so if you're planning to fit THAT suspension you should certainly install it first.

Other than that, the front end, rear end, and fuel tank aren't on the "critical path". (If you were doing a BOPR or V6 conversion you could choose to do the whole conversion without EVER unbolting the front crossmember OR upgrading the front end.)

The rear axle and fuel tank relocation can be done whenever you feel like it. I drove my car several years before replacing the axle, and I still haven't centered the fuel tank. I may do that one day...

-Curtis
Curtis

Hi Steve,

Like Curtis said, there's no right or wrong way. I started at the front & am working my way back. There's another guy here in Houston doing a 302 swap who started at the rear & is working his way forward. Our goals are very similar, but we're going about it in the opposite order.

My car was as close to rust free as you could hope for, so I'm getting everthing done mechanically & electrically & plan to drive my car for a few months before totally disassembling & doing the body/paint work & interior. That way I can be sure i like how things are set up w/o having to redo body work or paint. The other guy here in Houston had his car stripped as a first step. We compare notes from time to time to keep in touch. Doesn't seem like either of us is making any more progress or running into any bigger problems than the other.

Some of the stuff is personal preference too. Centering the tank isn't necessary -- while it my be slightly better from a weight balance perspective, I know several people with great performing cars who prefer the look of twin pipes exiting on the left like the stock single pipe, so they left their tank in the stock position.

If you're picking up a Mustang donor, you probably have your engine, tranny, & rear end decisions made, so about the only major choice left is where to put the motor. There are basically three choices -- where most folks put it with the steering shaft between the balancer & the oil pan lip; where Ted's front end expects it; and all the way behind the front cross member. You might want to start with deciding on that since it will affect the rest of the drive train set-up & each progressive step back increases the amount of work you have to do to make room for it.

Good luck & keep in touch,
Rob
x Ficalora

The fun way is to get that engine in and take it for a drive. Aside from the thrill of it all, you will also get some strong motivation to do something about the suspension.
Peter

Hi Steve,
With the power to weight ratio available from the V8 conversion, your safety and that of your paasengers should be your primary concern. That said it can also be fun to sort out the suspension and brakes first. The 77B will need to be lowered at least 2" and the front end stiffened with uprated springs and roll bar.Uprated front brakes are really a neccessity these days with ABS so common on all other cars.Rember your Ford motor is much heavier than the usual Rover motor used for this conversion,which will have to be taken into account.
Once the car's suspension and wheels are decided, the placing of the engine and box in the chassis can be arrived at, followed by the cutting for the RV8 style exhaust system in the inner wheel arches( obligatory for performance and heat removal).Try to place the motor low enough and far enough back to avoid a bump in the bonnet.Allow plenty of room for the largest rad and fan setup you can or overheating will plague your life.The twin exhaust and centre tank can follow almost last on the list, once you have sorted the rear axle and its location out.

Regards and good luck,
Tony.
TONY FREW

As you plan your approach, remember that it is very difficult to compress the front springs for suspension work or removal unless there is weight equal to an engine up front. I suggest if you are swapping cross members that you remove the front springs when some engine is in place, 4 cyl or other. Dropping the complete cross member including suspension if using a cross member from Ted or others seems like a quick & easy solution- only 4 bolts and it's out- but that lump is a pain to deal with and it is now difficult(dangerous?) to remove the springs.
Jim Stuart

This thread was discussed between 09/09/2006 and 11/09/2006

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