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MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical - Steering column fouls on manifold/header

I've got an early V8 conversion and the steering column fouls on the exhaust manifold. I've tried shimming the engine mount to lift the engine off the column but it just slips back after a while. Do the later RV8 manifolds give greater clearance over the column or is there a way of dropping the column slightly? Anyone had experience of this before?
Many thanks, David.
David

David, you basically need to synthesize the setup in RB cars ... you say early V8 conversion so it sounds to me like you may have a CB steering setup ... it is just simply one HECK of a lot easier if you move the u-joint rearward and have a RB-style steering cone welded into your firewall ... pretty much like it says in the book. Then clearance should be OK ... at least half an inch or so. I wouldn't say any particular type of headers give more clearance ... they have to bolt on somehow and that's the rub ... it's the aft-most bolt that holds the drivers-side header onto the drivers-side cyl head. Yes, and typically you drop the column a little ... the pinion assumes a flatter angle (you need to angle the rack mounts on the C/B) and the steering column will assume a slightly steeper angle ... which is wonderful because it gives you just a tad more thigh room.
Ted

Thanks Ted, the column was modified when originally coverted several years ago and the UJ is to the rear and away from the manifold. The underside of the manifold rests lightly on the column shaft. Under power the engine lifts it off the column but in tight corners (where naturally I'm off the power) the steering becones very heavy. I'll try shimming the steering column where it bolts to the bulkhead as it needs minimal movement away from the manifold to give it clearance and see if that works. Beyond that maybe I can get an exhaust specialist to massage that part of the manifold from a circle to a slight oval.
David

Also David, you can space the column down a little by loosening all the bolts holding it to the bulkhead and the dash, and letting the column drop down. Use flat washers under the upper bolts as spacers; you can gain about 3/16 inch that way. You also should check your column alignment after doing this if you only have the one u-joint. Could be your motor mounts are worn out as well, letting the motor sag down.
Best, Joe
Joe Ullman

I have had the same problem which is now cured. You can shim where the rack assembly mounts on the cross member. I have a washer under the front 2 mounting bolts and this lays the pinion down a little more than without the washers.

Of course you will need to ensure that there is sufficient tolerance in the steering column adjustment to allow you to do this.

I think it is best to remove or loosen the 4 bolts that secure the steering rack assembly to the cross member then adjust your column as low as possible. Then have a look at how the rack is sitting on its mounts and shim accordingly.

I have a spacer under my right side engine mount and this was an option the MG factory did on some cars.

As Joe says the mounts do sag a litle over time, especially if they are from a 4 cylinder car. The V8 had harder rubber. I have a set of these V8 ones I will install next time I am unfortunate enough to have to remove the motor and gearbox!!

With RV8 manifolds these difficulties do not exist but I couldn't bear to cut the holes. I am of course a minority these days.

cheers
Ian Buckley

If all else fails , you can insert extra padding between the chassis rails & the crossmember.An extra set of rubber pads or some 1/4" neoprene should do the trick.This will raise the height of the car slightly, but who's going to notice 1/4" ? It worked for me. Barrie E
Barrie Egerton

I happened independently on Barrie's exact technique, with a CB car ... that's the ticket!
Ted

Many thanks for the input guys, a wide range of solutions, much appreciated.

Regards, David.
David

This thread was discussed between 17/04/2003 and 22/04/2003

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