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MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical - Transmission tunnel relief for T5

almost ready to test fit the engine and transmission, 63 skylark and t-5 box w/ HTOB. how much of the tunnel should i smash in and where, prior to fitting? ive heard near the accelerator pedal, ive also heard none is required. someone please clear this up for me. thanks.
jake

Jake,
Depends on the year of your B. In my '68, I relieved on the bottom of both right and left footwells, and overhead at the front of the tunnel, as well as further back in the tunnel. Personally, I can't see how some simply 'smashed' in these areas, especially where the thick seam runs across. Much too tough, in my opinion. I cut out and let in metal to provide room, although I was also concerned with allowing hot air to escape the engine bay. And, since I left the crossmember and steering cone in the stock position, my engine probably sits a little higher and further forward than some. You're gonna have to get the engine down in there and see what needs to be removed.

Best, Joe
Joe Ullman

The MG RV8 had a welded in panel shaped to give clearance to the upper part of the gearbox under the radio. Although that’s a different transmission than the T5, the T5 needs the same clearance. According to Glenn Towery on his video, the area between the bell housing and shifter need to be raised to the height of the area of the shifter, but this can be done with a hammer rather than cutting and welding.
George Champion

Jake, on my '67 I had to address 3 places. Near the throttle pedal I cut the seam where the tunnel side meets the floor pan startin at the firewall and back about 12" from the fire wall. Then I dished the tunnel in with the BFH about 1-1/2" in a smooth radius and up about 10". Then rewelded the seam. Down in the tunnel there is a sharp drop at about the station of the rear of the heater box that needs to be removed, I cut and folded this back and rewelded. At the bottom of the heater core box this area will need to be raised in order to drop the engine in. I cut a slit here and bashed it up, about 1/2" to 3/4" and rewelded. I've got a couple of great photos of these if anyone's interested, I'll send as email attachment. cj
Chris Jones

chris,
id like to see how you did this, you can send the pics to my email address. my car is a '77, i know the tranny tunnel is wider than the MK I cars, but didnt know if it was wide enough. i guess ill just have to test fit the drivetrain and see where there is interference. thanks for the help.
jake
jake

On the 77 you will need to bump the top of the transmission tunnel. There is a welded seem in the area. It will take a lot of big hits with a sledge. If in drought where to hit try and mount the engine and transmission in the car, then look where the top of the transmission leaves marks in the tunnel.

www.geocities.com/v8mhb
Jim Miller

It all depends on your engine location- how far back, how low it sits. There is a large seam on the underside of the radio console & that is the area that needs to be relieved. My '78 required about 10 min. of hammering with a 2 lb drill hammer to flatten & raise this seam & the area around it. No cutting or welding was required.

On my '73 GT now under construction, a little additional relief was required on the driver side, forward of the gas peddle.

In both cases, it took a trial fit, then a bit more pounding. While I could have sliced & raised the tunnel, & welded a piece in on each side, it would have meant altering the support between the tunnel & the dash. The BFH was a simpler solution for me.
Jim Stuart

ok thanks. the engine will be in the stock position, as im using an original v8 inducton set up. guess its time to get out the lift.

ps anyone interested in my progress can check my website at
http://www.et.byu.edu/~jmv/mgbv8.htm
let me know what you think
jake

This thread was discussed between 12/11/2002 and 13/11/2002

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