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MG MGB Technical - 5 Main Rear Oil Seal Question
| I have read through the archives a bit and see that some advise against using the orange/red rear main oil seal. They advise use of a upgraded black Viton seal - Part LUF 10002. Does anyone know where these can be purchased in the US. Is the orange/red seal really that bad? I am aware of the issues relating to the condition of the sealing surface on the crank itself - all is fine there - just looking for info on the seal situation at this time. thanks so much One post mentioned that the black seal was double lipped - one mentioned that it is not. Thanks, Jeff |
| J Delk |
| Jeff, the LUF 10002 was designed for the use in commercials as the Sherpa and it's derivates from other brands. If you cannot find it at a spare part service, just contact Octarine-services.co.uk and Chris Bedson will be able to help. Ralph |
| Ralph |
| moss europe sell them so moss motors should be able to get them they may not be listed on the site but ring them they come with an apllicater to install them ste |
| Ste Brown |
| Thanks - is the black seal a viton seal? Is it double lipped? |
| J Delk |
| I goat mine from a British Parts supplier in Canada. The shipping was more than the seal but it's cheap insurance. If you Google the part number you should find a supplier. |
| Sam Sullivan |
| Does anyone know of another type US replacement for the red/orange seal. Are they really bad or is the talk of/experience with them failing more something that has been talked about without real data to back it up? Just trying to avoid pulling my engine again in 3 months |
| J Delk |
| I thought that I'd bring this up to really annoy everyone here. The LUF 1002 seal actually came in two colors: both black, and orange. Both are a single lip type seal. I know all this because I've actually used both types in my engines and I have kept an old worn orange LUF 1002 in my garage - just so I can show it to various non-believers. I've had no problems with either color. Either type lasts justs a long as the other...but just make sure that the part number "LUF 1002" is actually molded onto the rim of the seal. All that being said, I have not run into an orange LUF 1002 in some time, and so it may have been discontinued in favor of the black version. I think the most critical detail one has to be concerned about...is it's installation. Do not tap the seal directly with a hammer when installing onto the engine backplate. Grease the outter rim of the seal and hold a sacrificial plate of aluminum over the seal and gently tap the aluminum plate in order to drive the seal in place. Make sure that the seal is absolutely square (or, flush) with the face surface of the engine backplate. Liberally apply grease on the seal - and around the end of the crankshaft. When you THINK that you've put enough grease on...put on more. I, myself, use a concoction of Lubriplate with a couple of shots of STP additive mixed in for good measure, but I suppose any assembly grease will do. I do not use engine oil here as it will often run thin as the engine assembly sits waiting to be installed in the car (due to gravity) or when the crank is rotated many times during experimental camshaft dial-in. Install the engine backplate gently. Before bolting it down - give the backplate a gentle rotational wriggle to make certain that the seal is absolutely centered onto the crankshaft and is not pre-loaded by being offset. As the engine is fired-up for the first time, hot engine oil will eventually melt away the grease - and you're good to go. |
| Daniel Wong |
| Hey folks - I just got a black seal from the suppliers It is a Payen Seal and the markings are as follows: Payen NB 772 BL Cars INA 51727 GACO 17 ANGUS 88.9 x 104.78 x 9.52 Belgium Federal Mogul I imagine this isnt the one you mention. We will see Jeff |
| J Delk |
| Hi Folks: I remember reading about a double lip rear oil seal. Essentialy the double lips would bridge the scourded crankkshaft hub. Does anyone have any info on the manufacturer, part number, availability?? Thanks: Rich Boris 67B roadster |
| Rich Boris |
| In most instances, a double lipped seal is essentially a single lipped inner seal shrouded from dirt by the outer second lip. This usually extends the life of the seal and any "extra" sealing action is a bonus. There are also "Wave Seals" whose single lip is designed to produce a wave-like pattern on the shaft essentially using this back and forth sweep to push material (dirt) away from the sealing track on the shaft it seals. Given the info that George has presented, you could check a cross reference for a double lipped seal of the same dimensions. There may or may not be one out there. If you find it, let the rest of us know its unique number and from whom it is available. |
| Bob Muenchausen |
| Most "double lipped" seals have the outer lip reversed to prevent ingress of crap or air to eat the seal and screw up the crankcase vacuum. A true double lipped seal would have both lips in the same direction, for really good sealing against fluid escape - or water intake if it's a submarine! The original seal worked just fine before sealed crankcases, but the vacuum draws stuff in. FRM |
| FR Millmore |
| Did anyone ever come up with a US supplier of a double lipped seal..viton or otherwise? Thanks for all of the info so far, Jeff |
| J Delk |
| Hi, I got mine in the UK from MGOC, item 8, http://www.mgocspares.co.uk/acatalog/MGOC_Spares_UPPER_4.html |
| Rich |
This thread was discussed between 15/05/2007 and 29/05/2007
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