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MG MGB Technical - Another engine/gearbox out

Just like Moss, I've just taken the engine out with gearbox attached. All went ok except unbolting the gearbox support crossmember. Had to drop the back of the box before I could get to the mounting block nuts. Also some problems operating the load leveller when the hoist was elevated as the handle fouled the jib. Note to self: mount it with the handle away from the jib so it can be turned.

I've just removed the head and present a couple of pics for your assesment. I've suspected an oil leak either from gearbox from seal or engine rear seal. I've also had some oil seapage from the head/block joint. I intend to assess big ends and bores as the PO said that the engine had been reconditioned with reground crank, new pistons, cylinders honed. That was only a few thousand miles (but 17 years) ago. I have a Peter Burgess fast road head to fit and intend changing the cam out to a Piper 270 so want to make sure the rest of the engine is ok.

Steve Church

This is the head.

Steve Church

And the clutch housing.

Steve Church

A leak from either seal would normally drip from the hole at the bottom of the bell-housing that should have a split-pin in to keep it clear. The black and greasy appearance of the interior of the bell-housing seems a factor of carbon dust as much as anything, there are no runs down from the seal that I can see.

Are those water passages that are blocked or nearly so in the head?
PaulH Solihull

Congratulations on the extraction Steve...I need to replace the split pin in the hole at the bottom of the bellhousing! I took it out thinking it was a 'mishap' from the PO. Silly me. Good Paul mentioned it.

I'm ready to put the gearbox back on the engine but cannot seem to get it right. I've been trying for an hour or so...being careful with the input shaft.

/Moss
Moss

Moss,

Have you lined up the new clutch onto the flywheel with an aligning tool or old first motion shaft ?

Usually then only needs a push and a twisting action - whilst keeping it square for it to mate.

R.
richard boobier

Paul, yes the two centre water passages were blocked but I note that there is only one water passage in the block at those points.
I have a few weeks work to do before reassembling with plenty to ask about. Good luck putting it all back together Moss. At least things will be a bit cleaner then!
Steve Church

A pal with a 71 or 72 had a helluva job getting the two back together, even with slackening the rear crossmember bolts as much as possible to increase the angle, and using just the two rear holes to move the gearbox back a bit more, as the crank pulley was fouling the steering rack. Even after all that it only went together when he gave it an almighty shove in desperation.

But on a pals 79 the two went together straight away, no twisting, no nothing, probably because the cross-member and rack on RB cars is positioned differently. Did you grease the splined shaft and hole in the friction plate? Some say to put the gearbox in gear then you can rotate a rear wheel (only one off the ground) to turn the shaft to align the splines, but it would probably be easier to leave both wheels on the ground in gear to keep the gearbox shaft (relatively) still, and turn the crank pulley.
PaulH Solihull

This thread was discussed between 29/12/2011 and 31/12/2011

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