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MG MGB Technical - ball joint removal

Know there must be a few ways, but what is the recommendation on how to remove ball joints without tearing up the boot?
Bruce E Cunha

I recommend using tools made for the job. I notice that Moss Motors USA has them in their latest catalog, on page A66. I don't recall seeing any tapered ball joints on the MGB, but I've used these tools on other cars with great success. The scissors-type separator (386-026) is great for smaller joints, such as those at the ends of steering rods. The puller (386-025) is best for larger ball joints typically used to connect the A-frame to the steering knuckle. These tools are also available from J.C. Whitney & Co. -G.
Glenn G

On the tie rod ends?
Best way I know of is to loosen the nut to the end of its threads, take a largish hammer (BFH) and take a good whack at the end of the steering link. This will momentarily deform the taper of the hole, allowing the TRE to pop free. It sounds barbaric, but it really does work. Shown to me by Peter Caldwell of Worldwide Auto Parts.
David "credit where credit is due" Lieb
David Lieb

I do as David says, but you can improve the process for tight ones. Loosen the nut as stated. Turn the wheels all the way to full lock, so that the steering arm and tierod are as close to parallel as they get. Put a long bar between them, such that when you lift up you are tending to separate the joint. Lift the bar up reasonably hard (NOT enough to bend the tierod!) and set the end on a jack stand so there is pressure on the taper. Now smack it dead on the end of the steering arm with the hammer.
This combo of heavy pressure + impact will remove the tightest of taper joints. If spatial circumstance requires that you hit the steering arm or analogue from the side, then you need an assistant with a second BFH or steel block to back up the side you are not hitting, else the hammer blow will waste its force in bending the arm.

FRM
Fletcher R Millmore

The only engineered way is the scissors remover, the pickle-fork and wedges I have tried in the past are useless, and my swinging a hammer isn't accurate enough. But even the scissors type I bought needed modifying as shown here http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/bjs.htm.
Paul Hunt 2010

I did mine many years ago with a borrowed nifty tie-rod separator. This one was C shaped. On one leg of the C there was a U shaped slot that had the inside edges of the U thin enough to let you slide over the tie rod stud between the boot and the steering rod. The other leg had a bolt threaded through it. You tightened the bolt against the nut end of the stud. It popped off beautifully with no boot damage.

I used a liberal amount of anti-seize on the taper before I put things together and I've been able to remove it since with just a hammer.

I don't know where you find this tool but it was a sweet item. It wasn't very big.

Bob McCoy
Robert McCoy

http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=5802&SortOrder=1

The one on the left!

N
Neil22

The easiest variation on this approach is to place a large hammer on one side of the steering arm, after loosening the tie rod end nut of course, and hit the other side of the steering arm with another hammer. The tie rod end will pop right out. RAY
rjm RAY

See Moss (USA) #386-025.

I didn't get mine from Moss (I found it locally). It works perfectly.

I unscrew the nut on the tie rod end (but leave the nut on by 1-2
turns) then install the tool. Leaving the nut on helps prevent the
tool from sliding off when tightening. It pops off the tie rod end
cleanly, without damaging the boot, after just a few turns.
Daniel Wong

The one Neil22 posted (DRM 13913) is the one. A slick tool. The hammer method will usually work.
Robert McCoy

Thanks folks. I have a pickle fork but really hate using it as it nearly always tears up the boot.

I tried the hammer method, it worked great.
Bruce E Cunha

I only use the pickle fork when replacing old units. They do tend to destroy the dust boots but are brutally quick. I have 2, one that is used with a hammer and one that fits into my air chisel. RAY
rjm RAY

This thread was discussed between 10/03/2010 and 12/03/2010

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