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MG MGB Technical - faulty heater switch

I need to change the 2-speed heater switch on my 78.GT uk model.
Is there an easier way than taking out the whole of the dashboard to gain access to the rear of the switch?
si robathan

They're a simple push fit, you should be able to push your hand up behind the dashboard by the glove box and push the switch out from behind, alternatively prise it out with the blade of a small screwdriver or knife. To be sure of protecting the dashboard surface place some masking tape around the outside. They'll be enough surplus in the wiring to be able to pull it out far enough to change it, it uses simple Lucar spade connectors. Make a note of which wire goes to which terminal on the switch as you remove the old one.
Mike

hello Mike,
Thanks for this very useful tip, saving me a lot of work, now all I need is the switch!!
si robathan

Yes, they should be able to be prised out. Not cheap! Check the replacement operates the heater motor on both speeds as well as being illuminated at night before pushing it back.
Paul Hunt 2010

If it's a 1978 model, the easy way in is to prise out the fresh air vents above the row of switches.
Geoff Everitt

True, but they need a hand up the back anyway.
Paul Hunt 2010

The fresh air vents can be a pain to remove as the securing tabs tend to hook onto the rear of the dashboard, plus when you refit them you need to ensure they are properly located onto the fresh air inlet hoses.

New replacement switches are around £15, if you want to save a few pounds you should be able to source one from a classic MG breaker or off ebay. The switches were a generic Leyland item that were used on most Leyland cars of the late 70's / early 80's, so with a bit of judicious searching you can sometimes grab this sort of item as brand new (old stock) off ebay for a couple of pounds. Earlier rocker switches used on MGBs between 1971 - 1976 won't fit as the aperture is a different size and their overall profile is different, I beleive the later switches also used pin connectors rather than Lucar spade connectors, so my earlier advice re the wiring may not be entirely accurate.
Mike

"later switches also used pin connectors" indeed, with a multi-way plug, meaning it shouldn't be possible to get the wires mixed up. But the illumination wires are still (small) spades. Earlier rockers are a very different style and would look a bodge, even if you dealt with the connections.
Paul Hunt 2010

Every switch I've removed could not be simply pried or pushed out. There are 4 tabs on the bezel or 2 tabs on the switch. The 2 tabs at the top and bottom of the switch have to be pushed in to remove it from the bezel. The 4 tabs (2 on either side) need to be pushed in to remove the entire assembly. There is also a plastic retainer on the back of the switch which also holds the lamp. This can be difficult and frustrating,but not impossible. There were factory tools to facilitate the task that are no longer available.
J. E. Guthrie

UK switches are very different to US after 67, i.e. one-piece with no separate bright bezel unilluminated rockers from 73, although they may both have got the same switches for 77-on which again were one-piece with no bright bezel but illuminated.

The factory tools were simply U-shaped bits of metal which slid onto the end of the switch (or US bezel) to depress the tabs which *does* make removal easier - once you have got to the back of the dash with hand and tool! Easy to fabricate once you have a switch to hand. But I've found the UK switches, both original rocker and later illuminated rocker, come out with wiggling as the main body doesn't seem to be a tight fit in the holes.
Paul Hunt 2010

This thread was discussed between 31/05/2010 and 02/06/2010

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