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MG MGB Technical - Fitting new T-bar seam cover - wing to scuttle

I'm about to refit the wings on my roadster and have a new piece of T-section to fit in between the wing and the scuttle. The original was spot welded but i don't have one of those so wondered how others fitted theirs? Pop rivets? Polyurethane sealant? Also have they sealed any remaining gap to prevent water getting in? One of the jobs to do over the Christmas break.
Steve Church

Plug weld with a Mig then grind flat? I can imagine the heads of pop-rivets creating a massive gap, upsetting wing alignment slightly as well as leaking. Seam sealer both sides of the filler strip? Is this already painted or to be painted?
Paul Hunt

Paul,
I don't have a welder or access to one. Panels have already been sprayed as well as the strip.
Steve Church

Well, now that all parts are sprayed that rules welding out and as Paul says pop rivets would gap the panels. It seems that the only option now open is to apply seam sealer to both sides of the strip then bolt the wing up tight. Hopefully that will hold the strip tightly. Now there is supposed to be a couple of washers between the wing and the scuttle you'll just have to try these and see if they are needed or not.
Iain MacKintosh

Hi, Glue?

I'm not sure which, have asked on another thread about sealants and adhesives and if anyone knew about panel glue.

I know of a couple of people that have removed the vertical section of the T after they have shaped it and then glue it in the correct position. Less chance of corrosion etc. don't know which adhesive.

Hope this helps.
Iwan Jones

I used seam sealer, as described by Paul, after painting with primer. The wing bolts held the T-section securely in place.
Note: I had to cut away part of the vertical section of the T to clear the wing fixing holes.
Brian Shaw

I have done exactly as Brian did. I reduced the leg of the T, then simply sandwiched it between the wing and the scuttle with lots of seam sealer. You have got to prevent water getting in the seam. The original system of welding it the wing destroys the paint inside the joint, and then you are relying simply on the outer paint to keep it dry. No wonder they rust!
Mike Howlett

The other alternative, which I have seen and it doesn't look too bad. Depends if you are a stickler for OE. This solution involves no filler strip at all. The whole joint is filled with black, grey or white, PU sealer which, after bolting up, is tooled smooth. PU remains flexible and is a good adhesive.
Allan Reeling

What about panel adhesive?
M Ratcliff

Steve, I know your enquiry involves a roadster, but may I tack on a question? - my BGT is just now being painted, and the painter (experienced guy) says the wing/scuttle seam should NOT be sealed, to allow drainage down and away beneath. He has fitted the finishing strip as original, so this is the time to tell him to seam-seal, if there is not supposed to be drainage! Any comments welcome, and thanks for raising the topic, Steve. Regards, John.
J P Hall

Contrary to common sense to me. Stop the water getting in, and it doesn't have to drain, trapping dampness to cause rust. You get a bit of rain now and again in Queensland, as I recall :o)

If nothing else it was completely sealed with paint originally. I'm not saying they were seam-sealed originally, lasting for 40 years wasn't in their remit, but it is now.
Paul Hunt

It makes no sense to me either. Because the filler strip is spot welded to the wing edge there are areas that can't be painted. To let rain percolate down through such an area is asking for rust to form double quick. Maybe he's thinking of the older cars like the MGA or Morris Minor where a plastic filler strip was used which was sandwiched between two properly painted flanges. I wonder why they didn't do that on the MGB?
Mike Howlett

Paul - ha! we sure do get rain when it comes, but not frequently enough. Nothing from mid-year until last week, but good stuff coming down now. So yes, I favour seam-sealing. The (also new) seam-fillers on the rear wing top have, perversely, been seam sealed before painting.
Mike, I didn't know about the plastic strips used on Morries; I still prefer the metal, but would advise Steve Church to modify the filler strip as others have suggested, and then seam sealer to within an inch of its life.Thanks Steve for the opportunity to add my question to your thread! Regards, John.
J P Hall

Use body shop adhesive. Here in the USA it is made by Lord (name brand Fusor) and 3M (which is what I used to replace my doglegs. Here is the 3M product: http://3mcollision.com/3m-panel-bonding-adhesive-08115.html
Jack Long

This thread was discussed between 22/12/2014 and 16/01/2015

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