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MG MGB Technical - Fuel Tank Removal

I need to remove the fuel tank from my 73 Roadster, and I have run into a problem. All of the captive nuts on the tank that are supposed to stay stationary spin as I turn the bolts on the floor of the trunk. I had no problem removing the nuts that attach to the fixed bolts on the trunk floor - its the removable bolts and the nuts with the captive clips that are giving me trouble. If I remove the muffler, I should be able to get vice grips onto the nuts on both sides of the tank. But the two rear ones are nearly impossible to get at because of the forward curve of the rear sheet metal below the bumper. There is only a about 1/2 inch gap between the forward edge of the sheet metal and the rear of the tank. I'm spraying penetrating oil on all of the nuts, but I don't think they will break free. Any clues about how to attack this problem of keeping the nuts from turning where they are virtually inaccessible so I can get my tank off? Anyone else have same problem and resolved it? Nothing specific in the Archives. Much Obliged.
David Burke

Centre pop the bolt head and drill through it.
Start 1/8" then go for the 1/4".
If it spins with the drill, hold it with a ring spanner.

Do put a couple of the accessible fasteners back to hold the tank, or support it whilst you are drilling.

When the tank is off, you can replace the clips.
Martin Layton

Thanks, I'll try that, but would I have access to those rear tank bolts way up under the rear sheet metal? I don't think I could get a ring spanner onto the nuts if they start spinning, but it's worth a go.
David Burke

David-
That's doing it the hard way. Run down to Home Depot or the local equivalent and purchase a Black & Decker Dremel tool kit. Use the cutting wheels included to cut off the bolt heads. New bolts are cheap, and the threads on the old ones are almost certainly rusted to the point that you wouldn't reuse them.
Steve S.

Thanks, all. I will grind off the bolt HEADS and drop the tank. I've got an air powered cut off/grinder that I'll use, and I will support the tank!
David Burke

Make sure the tank is sealed before grinding. If you have removed the filler neck replace it or block off the fill pipe. Grinding sparks and gasoline vapors are a bad combination. Even if the tank is empty there may be enough fumes for a boom.
John H

Be careful with a grinder- mind your eyes, and more important, mind where the sparks go. They embed themselves in whatever they land on, then go rusty later.

(The number of times you see TV "experts" grinding so the sparks land on another car beggars belief)

It was the head you should drill through.
Martin Layton

This thread was discussed between 17/06/2007 and 18/06/2007

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