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MG MGB Technical - Halogen Headlamp Conversion

Normally the lens and reflector are clamped between an outer chrome ring and an inner metal ring. The outer chrome ring just has three tabs for screwing to the inner ring, which has an additional two slotted tabs for the adjusters and a tab with a hole for the retaining spring, this is for all the factory production of standard and halogen bulbs and sealed beam units as far as I can tell.

This car seems to have a halogen conversion with just an outer chrome ring and no inner ring. Instead it has three small metal plates that go behind the rim of the lens and reflector to clamp them to the outer ring with three screws. The outer ring also has the two slotted tabs for the adjusters, plus a tab with a hole at the bottom right for a screw that goes into the edge of the plastic bowl.

Anyone recognise this arrangement? Any ideas of make or source? The last tab I mentioned that attaches to the plastic bowl has corroded and broken off, and the only alternatives at the moment are to attempt a repair or replace with a complete factory-style headlamp unit at over £40 quid. I'm hoping to get just the outer chrome ring.
Paul Hunt

Paul,
I've just fitted a similar setup to my B. I think you'll find they're made by Wipac, I used the plastic bowls bought from a LandRover supplier although they seem to be readily available from many British classic car part suppliers - the price can vary a lot so shop around.

Incidently, the plastic bowls also make it so much easier to fit the outer chrome headlamp rings.

HTH

Mike
Mike

Thanks Mike. Using this info I contacted my local classic Mini parts place and they recognised the description and stock just the chrome ring in question. I need to compare to be sure, but there can't be that many different conversions, and I'm very hopeful. Thanks again.
Paul Hunt

Years ago I replaced my original head LUCAS headlamps with halogen ones I bought at the local auto parts store. No other changes were made like relays. The new ones have worked very well and I have had no problems with switches either. They were without seperate bulbs too. The change was easy and at least for now see no need in getting relay wiring. Have fun! Bob
Bob Ekstrand

Until you fit relays or simulate them, you won't see (pun fully intended) just how much light output you are losing without. I fitted relays and fuses to a friends car with uprated lighting, and he said the difference was amazing. Not only were they obviously brighter, but when switching beams instead of one beam going out then the other gradually coming up to some level of illumination with a dead space in between, the switch (not intended this time) seemed instantaneous. 30-year-old switches and connectors aren't really keen on passing their original current levels, let alone the higher currents of some conversions.
Paul Hunt

Likewise, using the original switches to merely switch the current necessarily to activate relays rather than the current to operate your headlights means that the headlight switch and the dipswitch will last much longer. Not only is the dipswitch a pain to replace, but the modern replacements tend to be a bit shoddy as well. I recommend using a pair of relays even if you don't use brighter bulbs.
David "now to install them on the Bugeye..." Lieb
David Lieb

This thread was discussed between 24/04/2009 and 25/04/2009

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