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MG MGB Technical - Ignition key stucks when starting

When starting my MGB of 1974, I manually have to turn back the ignition key to prevent my starter keep on turning when engine has been started.
Apparently it has something to do with the steering lock that is a little bit sticky when turning on the key.

Does any one know how to dismantle the steering lock in order fix this problem ?
Or has someone got any experience in solving this annoying issue which eventually could lead to a faulty starter engine...

kr
Gerrit
Gerrit

Gerrit,

I can't help you with your problem; but if someone has an answer for you, it might help me. I have a '74 GT with just the opposite problem. The switch works fine in the on, start, and run positions but it is almost impossible to turn it all the way off and remove the key.

Mack

M Sneed

Gerrits problem sounds more like the switch than the lock, the lock is disengaged when you turn the key to the first position, thereafter only the switch moves. At least, that would probably be the case if the switch is relatively easy to turn, just not springing back from the 'start' position to the 'run' when released. That caused engine fires in a number of Renaults not long ago. If it is stiff to turn through all the positions and in either direction it could be the lock.

Macks is the opposite, more like wear in the key or lock mechanism rather than the switch. My roadster came with only one key so I had another cut from that. I only used it recently for some reason, and found the same thing, whilst on tour. Mine is a 73 with a complicated push/twist/pull routine to remove rather than the 'push-button to release' and twist of my 75 V8. I had to leave the key in the lock and hope no one nicked it as I didn't want to force it and end up stranded miles from home. With a bit of brute force on returning home I did get it out without damage.

You should be able to get switch and lock separate. Locks are usually attached to the column by shear-bolts (that only seem to shear when being removed and not when fitted). Switches can be attached by a variety of methods, there were a number of variations, look around for screws, rivets, pins through the side of the housing etc.
Paul Hunt

Gerrit,
Have you tried powdered graphite in the lock?
It may just need some lubricant to get it all working again.
Any locksmith or hardware / auto supplies shop will have it in a small plastic bottle.

If that does not help then follow Paul's suggestions and remove and service the lock assembly.

Pete.
Peter Thomas

Gerrit, the first thing to do is find a real locksmith, once you have one remove the entire lock/switch assembly and hand it to him/her, the next day they should hand it back working like new. At a cost much less then a new switch.I say this with confidence as I had dozens of similar switchs repaired locally in the 80s and 90s. The key is finding the locksmith. Ric
RIC LLOYD

Pete,
I've only tried with some silicon grease spray into the key switch but it didn't help.
So I will try with some graphite.

Paul,
I might give it a go to try and dismantle the switch /lock. If the problem can't be solved, I'll follow plan B suggested by Ric.

Ric,
good suggestion if the graphite & dismantling don't work. Any idea what a new switch may cost since lock smiths that have experience with car switches are hard to find in Belgium...?

thnx

Gerrit
Gerrit

By the way, happy new year to you all and may it be a year with lots of joy and MG fun .
Gerrit

Gerrit - the electric switch and steering lock are two separate units held together by a self-tapping screw. So far as I recall the return spring is in the electric switch. The switch is removable but it is a sealed unit so that silicon spray may be the only 'cure'. I suspect the spring is broken. You may be able to replace the electric switch with a second hand unit but they are normally sold together with the steering lock as a single unit. You may be tempted to go for a new combined unit - BEWARE the unit may work but some of the replacements have been incorrectly wired with low wattage cable. You can work out the effect.
Mack - as Paul says, your lock is dry. Graphite may work on the lock-key but not the bolt mechanism and vaseline (petroleum jelly) may be a longer lasting fix.

HTH
Roger

Grease or oil in a lock is bad news as it will attract dust and dirt that *will* gum up the tumblers. Graphite powder should be used, but graphite on top of grease will gum things up even sooner. Grease in the switch itself is OK.
Paul Hunt

Gerr5it if you feel like playing yourself,sepparate the lock and switch and flood the lock with penatrateing oil "break-away" is a brand I have used.Over the years P.O.s may have sprayed all kinds of neat stuff in to the lock guming up with a muddy
mixture. Spray after spary of 'break-away'can flush out the muck and may allow the lock to work, if not the locksmith is the next step. RIC
RIC LLOYD

Thanks RIC,
I'll give it a try since I'm quite handy so it should not be a problem. If stuck I can still go to a locksmith.

Gerrit
Gerrit

Gerrit: It's been couple of weeks,SOoooo? How did you make out? Keep us in the loop. RIC
RIC LLOYD

Hi Ric,

sorry it took so long. Have been quite busy. Problem is solved : the correct spray did the job ! thanks for your expertise.

kr

Gerrit
Gerrit

My '77 B has a similar problem. The key does not want to turn to the start/run position sometimes. This is due to wear on the key and lock cylinder. Sometimes it gets stuck. I'd suggest replacing the whole thing. You can get them from The Roadster Factory for about $75.
S.L. LaPaugh

I have used WD-40 In my ignition lock and it works jusy fine. Bob
Bob Ekstrand

This thread was discussed between 31/12/2008 and 26/01/2009

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