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MG MGB Technical - Lower rear valance replacement

I'm getting ready to replace the lower rear valance on my MGB convertible. I've already done other bodywork on the car including full sill replacements, so I'm not a complete stranger to these things. However, this seems like a part that rarely, if ever gets replaced or if it does, it's with a fiberglass sebring panel. Mine is banged up pretty badly from years of neglect by PO's. I plan to remove it and start over.
Has anybody done this lately who can comment on level of difficulty, panel fit quality, etc. I'm assuming Moss, Vicky Brit, and others have the same replacement panel. If the fit quality of the replacement is really bad, I might consider alternative ideas...

Thanks,

Scott
Scott Wooley

It was 20 years ago but I do recall it was one of the easiest bits to do. If you have changed sills it's a stroll in the park. I left the bumper dumb irons on and aligned the valence to them.
Stan Best

I've done it recently on my rebuild, stitching it on where the rear panel has an inward step. It was no problem and the panel fitted OK. The only thing to be aware of is that the solder in the vertical seams will start to melt as you weld along the panel (unless you have a late model car where they didn't bother to fill the seams). I managed to be quick enough for it not to notice.
Mike Howlett

Here's a picture I took. Doesn't time fly. I would never have thought it was nearly two years ago!


Mike Howlett

Mike

How did you like the body turning system you have on the GT?
Bruce-C

It was excellent Bruce. I bought it from a trader called "Mr Grumpy" who specialised in Morris Minors, but I don't think he is in business any longer. As you can see in the picture, it has two curved members that bolt onto the wheel hubs and are joined at waist height to prevent them from spreading. I used my engine crane to pick up the other side of the car, and I was able to get it to within a gnat's whisker of the underside being vertical. It has props that are used to keep it from falling back down, and I used a baulk of timber for extra safety.

It made the underneath welding an absolute doddle. I honestly don't think I would have completed it had I been forced to do it lying on my back with all the hot metal falling on me.


Mike Howlett

Bruce,

If you are looking to roll a bare body I can recommend making one yourself from 2 engine stands and some rectangular steel tube. I made one for £70 including the second engine stand (I already had the first one). You just need to lengthen the uprights with suitable rectangular tube to allow the body to clear the frame when it's on its side and remove the front wheels to tilt the stands so that the axes of rotation are parallel to the ground. Some more of the rectangular tube is bolted to the mounting plates on the front of the stands and to the bumper mountings. It's very stable but I wouldn't use it if the axle and other heavy items are still attached. It's also very well balanced and one person can roll it easily.

John
John Tampkins

Thanks for your comments. Mine has a tight row of horizontal spot welds that welds the rear valance to the trunk floor. When I replaced the sills, I used plug welds in lieu of a spot welder. Has anyone installed a rear valance using this method? I'm trying to avoid panel distortion as much as possible. Are the current replacement panels made by Steelcraft, or by a similar quality English company?

Scott
Scott Wooley

This thread was discussed between 26/09/2008 and 27/09/2008

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