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MG MGB Technical - Oil Pan Gaske

This question is for my MGA, but it has a '67 18GB 5-Main engine. It appears that I am needing a new oil pan gasket. I have an oil leak that appears to be coming from the space between the oil pan and the flywheel housing. Leaves a small puddle when parked on my shop floor (level), but continues to drip making a large puddle over time in my garage. (the front of the car is elevated about 4 inches because I have to park it onto the raised area at the back of the garage to allow parking the golf cart behind it. I assume that the oil level is above the pan/block seam when the front is elevated. Yes, for now I'm now backing into the garage.

Looking at the archives, a 2006 thread recommends a Fel Pro gasket PN OS 20011 and praises Fel Pro's "Permadry Plus" and their "oil pan Snap-Ups". Unfortunately, this is not a Permadry gasket.

Does anyone have any experience with this gasket and/or does anyone have a more recent recommendation?

Frank
Bruns

I'd be surprised if the oil level were above the level of the sump, the big-ends would be splashing into it, wouldn't they? You can check by holding the dipstick outside the tube and seeing where the MAX mark comes to. That does suppose you have the correct dipstick and tube, there were three different types for the MGB.

Even if it is above, millions (probably) of these engines were made with standard gaskets that didn't/don't leak to that extent. My V8 started leaking but from the front of the engine, and the upshot of that was that the sump had been resting on the cross-member and worn through, due to incorrectly orientated engine mounts. Just saying, it may not be the gasket.
paulh4

Paul -- I did check the dipstick and the "full"mark is, indeed, below the top of the sump. That is why i assume the drip fairly quickly stops after a drive if the car is parked level. When parked in my garage with the front wheels elevated 4 inches, i'm guessing the oil flows to the rear and is now above the top of the sump. Parked this way, the car just continues to drip.
With the car now backed into the garage with the rear wheels elevated, the drip has almost ceased.

Frank
Bruns

Bruns
Fairly unusual for the pan gasket to leak like that----but
With the pan off, you will see a square section cork strip across the rear edge of the rear main bearing cap-that is held in place by the backplate and the pan itself-
In some gasket sets there are supplied differing sizes in these strips and indeed there is one that is too thin and will shrink a tiddle more and leak-----------like yours
I usually use the fat one--cork gives a bit and cut it about1/4" too long, get the ends started and push it in and it will stand probably about 1/16" proud of the surface, fit the new pan gasket and pan and screw it down--evenly, the pan will compress the cork strip and seal it all up,
When you go to get your new pan gasket don't get a cork one as over time they give up, get a more solid (gasket material)type and use a smear of sealant on both sides
Cheers
willy
William Revit

Bruns,
Willy's is a good suggestion. Also often, when the main bearing cap seals are fitted, people cut them to length thinking they are too long. They're not, the two ends are put in then the centre is pushed down to compress it. I put some sealer on it and use a small plate "what I made", to hold them in place till the sealant sets.
Allan Reeling

William. Allan -- thanks so much for your input. This is why I love this forum so much. Without a doubt, I would have removed the pan, installed the new gasket and put it back together with out going the next step and renewing the strip across the bearing plate. Looking at the diagrams in the Moss motors catalog (the best diagrams I have), I can't identify the gasket. Is it available, or does one have to fabricate it? Does it have a name?

Frank
Bruns

Sorry, I just answered my question, I think. Scouring the archives, (again a life saver) it appears that I am looking for "bearing cap seals" Studying the Moss diagram, they only note the front seal, so I was looking in the wrong place. Since I have a '67 1800GB engine, it looks like I need different seals for the front and back. I plan on ordering both and inspect front and back to see if I should replace them both.

The thread graphically described the result of ill-fitting seals, so mine are certainly suspect.

Also, there was a discussion of some available seals being too thin. I plan on ordering them from Moss unless there are warnings out there.

Frank
Bruns

Also check:

-Oil filter adapter bolt as there may be a leak in the rubber seal between the adapter and the block.

-Oil pressure gauge hose connection (and the hose itself).

-Timing cover seal.

-Timing cover gasket.

-Tappet chest gaskets.

All 5 of these were leaking on my engine while the oil appeared on the pan in various quantities.

I fixed all of these leaks and there are still oil spots on the floor.
Glenn Mallory

Thanks Glenn, but I have already thoroughly cleaned all the normal leak areas and left the car sit still. after a while I can clearly see a leak trace down from the area between the sump and the engine plate. Just don't know how it is escaping.

Frank
Bruns

This thread was discussed between 22/05/2017 and 29/05/2017

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