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MG MGB Technical - Removing seats to install heat shield

Hello to all, I am trying to install heat shield on the floors of my 71 MGB.I will remove the seats, hand break, anything else you can think of? I will paint the floor before I put it down,but people are talking about peel and stick? I am a union glazier and use it for sealing the alum frames to wood,steel, anything I want to keep water out, my problem is that I have a problem putting a tar product over HOT FLOORS. I think it would SMELL. Any help would be grear. Thanks DB
dab donald a baker

My heat shield is on the engine side of the bodywork, so it prevents the heat getting to the metal - prevention being better than cure.

Have you not got this?
John Bilham

When restoring my MGC we painted/coated the inner fenders and floors (inside) with Mor-Guard, a Rocker Panel and Truck Bed Guard (#1420-4). It dries hard and provides an impervious coating. I figure it will prevent rust and dampen noise. I don't know how much good it does as an insulator but it should help. Also, you can paint over it.


Good luck,
Jim
James Budrow

Why yes I do,but doesent it rain in France? do you get water in your engine bay? how do you keep it from ROTTING out between your heat shield and the body of your car. I guess I don't GET IT!
dab donald a baker

DB,
you might be grabbing at the wrong end of the poker with that last remark

I *think* you're on a different track to what John meant

I'm lost with your industrial products, I wonder if you might want some of the products here (some look quite nasty though) - http://www.agriemach.com/default.php?cPath=0_7

one thing that holds more water than imaginable is the very dense foam type of soundproofing or fibre matting, I've got none in my car and it's saved the car from retaining many gallons of water in the times it's leaked or I've left the hood down

today was an example cloudy but dry when we went into the pub but a bit later we saw out of the window it had started to rain, now it wasn't heavy rain so no need to spoil drinking time, just wet enough to dampen down the dust inside the car - other times there's been a lot more water in there but because the floor is painted and no soundproofing to hold the water so it dries out easily or can be sponged out

so if any of this insulation stuff has the same very dense foam or fibre type of backing then also don't use
Nigel Atkins

DAB - Not a very good shot, but you get the idea. It runs alongside the exhaust and gearbox towards the rear of the gearbox tunnel, and up into the engine compartment.

It's made of some sort of composite material, and presumably waterproof, given your earlier comment :)

John Bilham

Many modern cars have a heat shield over the silencer/muffler. In most cases it is bolted on a a few key points but bent /curved so that there is an air gap over the hot bits. Usually dimpled sheets - aluminium sandwich with some magic filling. As presumably the heat is predominantly from the exhaust, there should be space to fit it to the underside. Available by the sheet from custom / race car builders.
Michael Beswick

The tarry stuff on the floor is more of an anti-noise thing than a heat-shield, and is on both sides of the car. To begin with the tunnel had a silvered asbestos? cloth heat and noise shield under the carpet, I have seen what John describes on a 78, as shown in the attached. The advent of the catalytic converter on North American spec cars seemed to warrant the addition on those cars at least, even though the converter wasn't positioned there its heat would go that way when underway.

Paul Hunt

My Apology to all. I was wrong for saying what I said. Lets start over. I am talking about foil backed insl. that is installed under the rugs. I saw the heat shield Moss sells, i'm sure I can make that myself with a metal break. What I am trying to do is keep the heat out of my car, I don't think that peel&stick is the answer after I paint the floor. Sorry for my rude remark. Thanks Again for everyones help DB
dab donald a baker

I'm with John, Outside is better. Anyhting reflective will do the job. A piece of polished stainless bolted with short spacers to the floor. You could add some plumbers mat behind it. Alternatively you could wrap the exhaust!
Allan Reeling

DB - no offence taken. I did make an attempt at a 'smiley' in my second post, thus :)
John Bilham

dab,
just for once I was on the right track to what you're after (a rare event for me), in my previous post see that link I put up and the provisos
Nigel Atkins

I took a look at how the seats are installed. the car was taken apart in 1988, I mean apart,i think there is a stop of some kind on the seat rails so you can get to the bolts? I did glue the new rugs down when I installed them, that was a bad idea. what about the hand brake? how much has to come apart? I will start with the pass side.what about the side rails is it worth pulling up the rugs? Thanks, DB
dab donald a baker

You should be able to slide the seat far enough forwards to get clear access to the rear seat runner bolts. However this may only be once you have removed the front bolts if the seat it fouling the tunnel, and the front bolts (when the seat is fully back) are slightly shrouded by the seat frame.

Paul Hunt

Thanks Paul, what about the hand brake? I am trying not to take that much apart. Has anyone tried to make a heat shield like the one you buy from Moss? Its HOT in FL. now and playing with rugs/insl in a hot garage makes you have no patience.
dab donald a baker

I don't know if this is too late or any good to you (not one of his better vids but their are 200+ more and you'll probably find most are very useful - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0BCzqyfDLC4
Nigel Atkins

I would have thought you could get foil-backed round the handbrake without removing it, but then it's no big deal to remove it anyway.
Paul Hunt

This thread was discussed between 28/07/2013 and 11/08/2013

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