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MG MGB Technical - Resto Question ****6*** Windscreen

OK.. this will sort the experts out?!

Before I start, I have, and always do, look for answers in the archive.. in this case, I have spent considerable time looking through the MANY posts on this subject so I dont blow what seems to be a difficult job!

I have totally (and successfully- no damage!) stripped my screen frame back to its absolute bare components.

1. I plan on using stainless steel pop rivets to re attach the visor and soft-top fixtures. The holes for which are drilled (standard) very close to the bottom of the frames channel (in other words, with maximum clearance from the seal/glass) My Q is, unlike the factory rivets, a pop rivet sticks out more on the inside when it pulls up. Could this foul the glass? How much is too much?

2. Tipsters advise shortening the center post lower attach bolts for ease of fitting. To what length?

3. On the lower centre post bracket is the word "Auster" which I presume is the manufacturer? As I am involved in aviation, Id like to know wether this is from the same stable as "Auster Aircraft"?


4. My 69 had a plastic rear view mirror which attached to the top of the centre post on a screw on fitting- the base of which constituted the post attachment. I intend to fit an early clamp on type mirror so the top fitting will be redundant. Is there a cover to screw on to and cover the attachment or did the early B's have a different post mount at the top? Are these available? does anyone have a close-up picture they could link/email me??

Many thanks in advance.

Innes Bint

Oh.. Q 5. Are the windshield to body mounting bolts the same size?? I can only find 2 in my pile of leftover bits and they look about 3" long with a coarse thread.
Innes Bint

Surely someone shoulod know the answer to these questions???!
joe

1. I'd say that there is going to be the rubber seal between the glass and the end of the pop-rivet which will tend to 'insulate' the two from each other. If you have the old seal (shame on you if you have chucked it out already) or the new seal you should be able to measure its thickness and determine how much clearance you have, of course not all that can be taken up by the pop-rivet, there must be some space left for the rubber to be compressed. There is a steel 'ball' left in the inner end of the rivet which isn't going to be able to be compressed or squeezed out of the way like the alloy of the rest of the rivet is. Long rivets leave more of a crumpled up mess at the inner end, so use a close-fitting, short as possible rivet where the steel 'ball' just goes through the frame and come sout the other side, that way you will have the minimal material left inside the channel. Doing it before you fit the glass and assemble the frame you also have the opportunity to dress it out of the way a bit if required, or have several goes until you get the minimum intrusion.

2. I've done this, but actually went a bit too short, so I had to reach behind the dash and push the captive nut up with a finger-tip for the threads to engage. Having done that I wasn't about to get new bolts and fiddle about cutting them to the right size, nor am I about to take mine out and measure them to see how short is too short :o) What I will say is that you have to grind a point on them as you need that to push the nuts into the correct position for the threads to engage, so don't cut the bolts off square bit by bit until they go in and *then* grind the point, or they will be too short. You will have to cut and grind bit by bit until they fit. Either that or remember to slip the bolts into the bottom bracket before you have pushed the frame down far enough to engage the main bolts.

3. Possible, as they are both fabricated from alloy. But unlikely I would have said as aircraft components are manufactured to much higher standards than car components. But then again it was a safety item so maybe it was.

4. I find it surprising someone would choose the earlier wobbly rear-view mirror, especially on a later car? (Unless the screen is from a later car and you want it to look right on your early car). The Parts Catalogue only gives the number for the top bracket with the later type of mirror. The frames changed at various times, which may have been connected with the mirror change, so you may have problems assembling parts for different frames.

There should be four bolts of the same *thread* type and size, although you may have different lengths. Are you sure you took four out? They can be such a pig to get in maybe the PO gave up and only fitted two.
Paul Hunt 2

If you try to put the bolt in place you will see how much you should cut off so that you can line the bolt up...I cut off just a small bit. First, I put a nut on the bolt and then cut the end off. Then I unscrewed the nut off and this straightened out any threads that were damaged. This was very fast and worked fine. The bolt still went in a long way so there aren't any safety concerns.
jjralston

Thanks..

Still would like some comformation on the Auster Question.

Also, If anyone has the dimensions on the 4 frame to body bolts it would be good.

Paul.. I havent chucked the seal so I will have a closer look. Sounds like sutibly sized pop rivets should work. and.. I just like the look of the old style rear mirror.. I guess I will have to make sure my car runs and rides extra smooth!
Innes Bint

I retro fitted the earlier, smaller, mirror that may be moved up or down (and justify) the centre strut. You can have it a dashboard level if you want. I don't know why it is imortant that you be able to do this, it just is!
As well as the gold coloured mirror, you need to buy a new chromed upper centre bit and a new chromed centre strut and double threaded (inside and outside) nut to go at the top. I also got a new chomed and shiney bottom bit. The other one was dull.
Well worth it I think. You know, with the exception of the V8 and the GT, avery thing else they did to the MGB was a diss-improvent on the orrigional.
I also retrofitted the orrigional inside door handles, chrome metal versions though.

The only problem with doing this (mirror)is that you will need to remove the windscreen frame to get at the bottom attachment.
Peter

"I find it surprising someone would choose the earlier wobbly rear-view mirror, especially on a later car?"

I did just that on my '79 B V8 for two reasons. Since I am 6'2" tall the fixed high mount mirror was constantly obstructing my view. The other reason was all I could see in it was the roll bar. I now have it all the way down. Resting it on the dash helps reduce the vibrations, as well.
Carl Floyd

Hello Innes ,have just read your 'thread' and could help you perhaps. I have some original frame to body bolts. I live in Auckland [NZ] I found the whole windscreen resto to be THE worst [hardest] job of the whole rebuild. Mine is a '66 and has the gold wobbly little mirror that gets moved every time the tonneau goes on but I love the stupid little thing...the next one looks very 1100 or Allego-ish. Give me a call if you want the bolts.
R F Murray

This thread was discussed between 23/03/2007 and 06/04/2007

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