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MG MGB Technical - Rocker Panels

Hi Everyone,
I was just wondering if anyone had their rockers replaced recently and how much it all ended up costing. Yes I mean inner outer etc, and no not the floor boards. Any help on finding out what the prices are that people are charging now a days would be greatly appreciated. Oh and no I dont have time to take welding classes but I wish I did... That brings up another question of people/friends/less than friends/etc doing side jobs that are proficient at welding. Whats a fair price for them to do the job? Compared to taking it to a "professional." Any help would be greatly appreciated and or stories about your own situations that you have been through.

Thanks in Advance,
James
James

James,

I've never paid anyone to do such work, but here is a start from the info I have.

I have an old brochure from an outfit named British Miles in Morrisville, PA. It came with my car and it is not dated. Judging by the other paperwork I got with my car, I would guess it is from between 1992 and 2002. The brochure advertises MGB rust repair for $975 per side. This included the full rocker (sounds like all inner, outer, and mid parts), floor, jack points, cross member half, and front & rear fender patches. The advertised price was for labor only. It did not include parts, paint prep, or paint. I have no idea what it would be today.

Also, I have a receipt that came with my car from November 2002. It was to replace the left front mount for the rear spring. The parts were $62, labor was $1359, and tax was $85, for a total of $1506. This was a “drive in / drive out” job. That is, it included all disassembly and reassembly as well as the welding.

Charley
C R Huff

1K per side plus parts. This would be metalwork only. If you have done the job, you would realize that it is not really hard, but it does take time.

Pete
Pete

Pete's right. If you have reasonable mechanical skills, buy a MIG welder, a few other tools, and teach yourself to do it. You'll save tons of money (it's labor-intensive) and feel really good about having done it yourself. Do price out the parts in a Moss catalog, etc, beforehand, so you know a bit more about your real costs. But Charley's $1359 in labor costs will buy you a lot of welding tools and leave you with $700-800 in pocket afterwards. ' Guess it depends on how much more of this you anticipate doing. It's an art - challenging, and very satisfying once you get the hang of it.

FWIW,
Allen
Allen Bachelder

A few other things to consider:

The MIG welder is going to cost you about 1k if you buy a good one.

The first time you do something, you learn how to do it properly next time!

My suspicion is that if the rockers are that far gone, you are going to need a welder for a few patches here and there. So, unless you are dead set against learning a new skill, I would get the welder and do the work myself. My advice on welders is "if it is not a red lincoln or a blue miller, it is crap". This is not strictly tue, but it will keep you out of trouble.

Peter
Pete

I did it myself, knowing nothing about the job or welding when I started. Bought the biggest 120V MIG I could (about $400) and did most of the removal with a combination of cutoff wheel, sawzall, and dremel.

Knowing jack about it, it probably took me about 2 weekends to do the first side, and about one to do the other (like Pete said, you learn a lot).

Cash wise, I was well under $1000, and none of those parts are more than 1/4 inch thick, so the 120V worked fine (didn't have 220 in the garage at the time).

It's doable, but it's messy, quite possibly a little scary (once you cut out the sill, it's on you to fix it).

Really, you have to ask yourself if you;re feeling lucky. I was...

Steve
Steve Aichele

Thanks,
I do have a friend or two who are handy with welding more or less. Now is it me or are the prices for the whole rocker assembly just insulting to look at. It is just metal. It costs the same to make for a MGB as a Jeep Wrangler and Jeeps prices are half that of an MGB. You can hang new fenders all around on your MGB for the price of getting new rocker panels put in. The pricing just doesnt add up when you think of what else it could be used for. How much are heritage shells going for again nowadays ? It just gives you something to think about and like you said learn how to weld, and I guess learn how to shape metal...
James

Pete,and all.Can you explain where exactly to weld my X ""cross bracing"in my MGB, before my floor pans,rockers,sills,etc get cut out.Would you use 3/4 tubeular steel?Dont really want to go accross the door openings(that way i can still fit up the doors when welding)I have been told that one needs to brace up the unibody construction with "X" bracing but not sure where to weld (attach points)at.Thanks for you help,Rich
Rich Osterhout

Ok, nevermind. Im living in 2000 prices. $800 for a wing ? $1000 for an alluminum bonnet? Im sorry but are any of you paying for such a thing ? Is the place you work for hiring ?
James

Pete,do you have any thought on how to brace this body??????
Rich Osterhout

If I had to do so much welding that the car needed bracing, I would buy a heritage bodyshell! You may never get all the rust out of your body, hence it will rust again in just a few years.

The above applies when outsourcing the work, if you do it yourself the economics may be different. In that case do it one side at the time, and you'll be fine.

All imo,

Laurens.
Laurens CGT

Rich,

When I cross-braced my door openings, I just used perforated angle-iron, drilled a couple of holes in the inner panels to bolt it up really tight with 5/16ths" hardware. I ran one piece across the top of the opening, one lower down, and an angled brace between them. It would probably be better to weld them, but this worked extremely well. The door still opened and closed - I left both on during the entire process to keep checking as I went. The finished car has excellent, straight, shut-lines. Considering how badly rusted my '65 was, and how much integrity it still had, I have to be amazed at how badly rusted a B would have to be before it started sagging. Not that bracing is not important, but if the drive-train is out of the car, it should not be difficult to brace.

One side at a time!

FWIW,
Allen
Allen Bachelder

Thanks Allen,No the car isnt badly rusted,however im getting ready to have it acid dipped/ecoated and they advised that i might want to brace the body before it goes into the tank.I may not need to replace the floors(only wanted to because the captive nut for the seat rails rusted a hole the size of a quarter)only one rocker has a rust hole in it.The car has been garaged since 1982.(i only drove it for 10 years,and had 52,000 miles on her)When i get her back.... (dipping)i'll know her shape for sure.Thanks for your kindness in answering, Regards,Rich O
Rich Osterhout

Laurens,see my note to Allen,bracing because im having her dipped.Thanks for your help in this matter,Rich O
Rich Osterhout

This thread was discussed between 20/03/2008 and 31/03/2008

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