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MG MGB Technical - Rubber bumper change to chrome

Has anybody out there done this and does the kit
come with grill etc and is it easy do it yourself
weekend project my b is a 1976 roadster
Todd Mc Donald

Todd,

I have never done it, and I didn't know there was a kit. But, I am familiar with the concept and I would not call it an easy DIY weekend project.

How good is your metal work tool supply and skill level with cutting and welding? There is plenty on it to be found in the archives, complete with pictures.

I expect the suspension parts will be more expensive than the grill, etc.

Someone who has done it will probably come along in a little while.

Charley
C R Huff

Todd

Moss Motors sells a kit.
Here are their instructions

http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/Products/Instructions/453-878-888.pdf

DK McNeill

Todd:
Had my '77 B roadster converted using the Moss kit in the late summer of 2007. The grill is not included so you can choose either the earlier or later style.
Had mine done by Motorcar Garage in Maple Shade, NJ where Peter Cosmides did a truly spectacular job.
Richard Miller

From what I've hard Moss kit/bumpers aren't right meaning they don't fit well. Better to use bumpers from CB car. The supports for the RB need to be cut off. Also you need to either modify or change the valance panel below the bumper to match the CB car. Other than that it's not a complicated swap.

Here's a website that details the process.

http://www.asvl47.dsl.pipex.com/mgb_chrome/
S.L. LaPaugh

Todd,

I did mine. The car is a 78 Gt and certainly not is perfect condition, so I decided that all the work I did on her would be with used parts of similar appearance to the rest. I want the car to drive, not to go to shows, so I don't see any point throwing money at her.

So eBay found me used bumpers, wire wheels and hubs, softer front springs and a stiffer front anti-roll bar, a wire wheel axle, new tyres, the chrome grill. I bought new brackets for the front bumper, and new (parabolic) rear springs, a complete set of Superflex bushes, and front indicators.

You will spend quite a few hours with a hacksaw, a drill, and other basic tools. I did no welding since my front wings are glassfibre and could be cut to fit the indicators without leaving holes, and I have just made and fitted rear fog lights in the space between the bumper and the rear lights.

Here she was before.



D Balkwill

During

D Balkwill

And after (but before lowering the suspension)

D Balkwill

Here's one of the fog lights.

Let me know if there is anything in particular you're worried about.

David

D Balkwill

David,

Those rear fogs are a pretty good trick compared to burning the paint off the rear wings with a welder.

What are they? Where did they come from?

Charley
C R Huff

Charley,

Take an old MGB rear light and saw it up like this

D Balkwill

Cut off the bottom end and glue it into the top of the red part to make it rigid and to keep out the bugs and the damp.

Get a back casting from a more recent MGB rear light and remove the indicator bulb holder and reflector. Fit this flush into the rear wing in the space below the rear lamp. Seal in place to keep out the damp.




D Balkwill

Saw the bottom off the casting to make the crome trim at the base of your new lamp. Drill two holes in the corners of this and glue it to the bottom of your new lamp. Remove and use the sheet metal part that is rivetted in the middle of the casting to make a bracket. This screws to the wing just below the lamp, just above the bumper at the bottom of the wing.
Fit the lamp in place by slipping it up under the rear lamp. It fits in the hollow base of the casting ( bit of filing to the red plastic to get a good fit), adjust the two vetical edges so it's snug to the body. Then drill through the two holes from below, ans self tappers holt it in place, followed by the crescent shaped trip part as all CB cars. To change the bulb, you undo the two screws from below the bumper.

I know this is all a bit of a bodge, but it does save welding and adjusting that horrible bit of sheet metal, and it does give you "period" style fog lights. They even have LUCAS near the top of the moulding!

Here's where you saw the casting.

D Balkwill

To get this bit as the bottom part of the lamp,(before cleaning it up with a file)

D Balkwill

Trial fitting

D Balkwill

And a lighting test which dazzled my phone/camera. Looks redder in the flesh.

D Balkwill

Side view fitted, looking like it's meant to be there.

D Balkwill

Very cool, David.

I saved the pics and instructions in case the need ever arises.

Thanks,
Charley
C R Huff

David, that is a very inventive solution! I got rid of the RBs on mine but left off the chrome to have a Sebring look.

Just replacing the bumpers will leave the car looking like it is sitting too high I think so it is worth looking at lowering the ride height back to 'standard' or lower height.

Simon
Simon Jansen

Very good David. Doing the under the rear lights is where I resorted to taking it to a panel shop.

Todd, I used the guide S.L. linked and bought all the chrome bumper bits. At the time all I owned shop wise was a hacksaw and a drill. Took me about a week end.The under the tail light bits are a standard spare part by the way.
You don't need to buy a new front valance. The rubber bumper holes are hidden under the new chrome bumper.
The bumpers are around $230 Australian each, the grill is around $350, under the light bits $30 (if you don't go with Davids good idea), Irons front and rear, don't remember, and those little chrome corner bits at the back. You should also get a new front badge, the ones the grills come with aren't too good, flat painted, not three dimensional.

peter

This thread was discussed between 20/05/2009 and 23/05/2009

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