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MG MGB Technical - Rubber bumper engine mounts

I am replacing the engine mounts on my 1977 MGB. The engine is out so they are easy to change. I just want to make sure they are installed correctly. The stud is not centred so there are two ways to install it, should the stud go into the slotted hole on the frame, with the stud higher or lower ?
C H Richards

Stud lower, to the bottom of the slot. If you have the correct offset square flat washer on the underside, it only fits with the stud in this position.

FRM
FR Millmore

Hi C H,you say easy to change - I pressume you car is left hand drive (Canada) Mine is also a 1977 model.I had to take the steering rack off as the steering rod from the bulk head down to the rack goes through the bracket - have you managed to change the mounts without taking off the rack? If so I'd appreciate knowing how...for next time.
/Moss
Moss

Moss. With the engine out, no problem. With the engine in, more of a problem. In either case, grease up a wrench so the jaws will hold the nut, insert the nut behind the block for the rubber mount, screw the rubber mount onto the nut. In my case, I soldered a block of steel onto a wrench to prevent the nut from slipping backwards when initially installing the mount onto the nut. When the stud bottoms out against the steel plate, remove the modified wrench, insert a non-modified wrench and tighten the nut. Not easy, but it can be done. I have a left hand drive car, but I suspect the right hand drive cars have the same problem on the other side. Not a great piece of engineering.

Les
Les Bengtson

Thankyou FR Millmore thats what I figured, funny they never mention the correct way in any manuals, yes Les that is the way to do it, mine is L/H drive as well but I am sure the R/H has the same issue, you can tape the nut to the wrench or use RTV,what ever holds the nut in place, then turn the mount onto the nut. If you were working flat rate there,s no way the rack is coming out. I also changed the the front axle mounting rubbers, now there's a challenge, but with a few choice words and a pair of pointed nose vise grips you can do it, Thanks again !!
C H Richards

Sounds very neat - my problem was that the nuts were rusted solid on the bolts. Could not budge them. Ended up cutting through the rubber to get to the bolts so I could cut them off with a grinder. This meant having to take the steering rack off...Very untidy - but now the new are covered in copper grease so won't have that problem again.
/Moss
Moss

I just installed my front mounts and noticed and alignment problem. When I researched it further, I found that the original square plate on the left hand side was not installed. No telling how long it has been gone. While I can buy the other mount packing, I haven't found a source of the square plate. Anyone have the diminsions or a source. The face of the mount on the frame has some damage after all these years. I think the plate would help mitigate the conditiion and let me get a better shim.

Thanks,

Dick Field
Dick Field

The square plate is offset such that it will only fit when the stud is at the bottom of the slot. Many are missing, because people couldn't figure this out. It appears that the main function is to keep the mount in place if the nut is loose, once the mount is installed. The square plate is not really necessary if the stud is bottomed and the nut is tight. If you have the RH one you can duplicate it - they are the same. Or, Use a large flat washer and spring washer.

FRM
FR Millmore

FRM,

Thanks, I'll just use a flat and spring washer with some lock tight.

Dick
Dick Field

Dick-
No need for Loctite, and if you ever have to remove the mount again, you will have made the job much more difficult. I use antiseize.

FRM
FR Millmore

Concur. Done up properly they won't come loose, but without something on the threads like Waxoyl or copper-grease they will seize. Probably the longest part of changing a clutch was getting those undone.
PaulH Solihull

This thread was discussed between 01/03/2012 and 14/03/2012

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