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MG MGB Technical - Setting end float

I have just completed setting the end float for the front bearings. I finished up with adding many shims to obtain the correct end float (total shim pack LHS wheel 0.081" and RHS wheel 0.057").

Is this normal or am I missing something?
Thanks, Henri
Henri Van Groningen

The starting figures that I have been given for shims is 1mm +.010" which seems to be a strange conbination and in any case works out at .050" approx. I have to say that in my case this is about correct. In the case of your .o57" shims this seems to be close to the mark but .081" seems excessive and would lead me suspect that the bearing outer races are not fully seated.
Iain MacKintosh


There are three shim thicknesses availiable.
memory is dim, but I do remember that I ended up using one of the thickest variety, a middling sized one and a couple of thin ones on one wheel and on the other a thickest and three of the thinnest. MGB's predate computer controlled milling, which is why many of us bought them! MGB's also predate planned obsolescence. A properly shimmed MGB bearing will out last most everything of its modern kind.
If you go too thick you will (after a short time) notice a dull "clonk" when you hit the brakes. A little too much play, you must adjust.This is distinct from the more musical spline "clonck". Less vibretto. It would be nice (and possible with modern internet) to establish a library of diagnostic noises

Too thin will bugger your bearings of course.

When you are setting up you should not have any grease on the bearings. Wash any off with solvent if you have greased them. A little oil and caution is the approach. Grease them after you have sorted ou the shim thickness. Start too thick, then go down the appropriate steps (of combinations of shims) until the wheel bearings start to bind when you start to torque the nut up to the appropriate reading. Then go one minimum step up. You are looking to have the minimum possible free play when the nuts are at the appropriate torque setting with the cotter pins in.
Obviously you apply the torque wrench carefully while checking for freeness of rotation. The moment it binds you stop. Don't just crank on the pressure like an idiot.
May the torque (force) be with you
Peter

Thanks Iain and Peter for the information.
I started with dry bearings and the required torque to seat the bearings. Disassembled and started adding shims all the time do a re-torque until I found the right combination of shims then greased the bearings and final assembly.
I guess I will have an otherlook at the LHS wheel.
Henri
Henri Van Groningen

Henri - You might want to recheck the end float of your bearings now that they are greased and reassembled. I have found that often the float changes a bit after greasing and reassembly (perhaps sloppy measurments to start with in my case). I don't find that the amount of shim thickness you are using to be excessive. As long as the end float is correct, I wouldn't worry too much about the total thickness of the shims. Cheers - Dave
David DuBois

As David says as long as the end-float is correct at the end of the process I wouldn't worry too much, especially if it is still correct after a period of running. The shims are there to accommodate variations in other components. Can't remember what combinations I have ended up with, but I do recall ending up with the same ones when only changing the bearings.
Paul Hunt 2

This thread was discussed between 29/06/2007 and 01/07/2007

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