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MG MGB Technical - shock conversion ---now shocks fully engaged

Dear all;
Last winter I installed a Monroe tube conversion (I bought on e-bay)on my 71 MGB. The shocks felt fully engaged so that when I drove over bumps there was no shock-reducing effect.

I thought that the reason was that my leaf springs were too old and worn (still the original). So I changed these.
Some improvement but still have jarring over big bumps or with more weight in the car.

Some solutions I have entertained are dieting, driving by myself, and not taking a spare tire or tools with me while in the car.

I think that I will probably have to buy new tube shocks but would love advice on if this is the problem and if so what type of shocks (make and model) I should buy.
Thanks,
Matt
Matthew Bennett

There is an awful lot about this on the archives and the general opinion is that they are just too hard and a waste of money. I had Spax tubes all round and the rears were too hard even on the softest setting leading me to remove them and fit a pair of uprated lever arms which are fine. I stil have the Spaxes on the front which seem OK but on the rear they are just too stiff for this light car and lead to the rear end unseating itself when cornering on all but the smoothest of surfaces.
Iain MacKintosh

Matt,

i heared of one driver here in Germany who is very pleased with the OEM shocks from a VW 1302 (old)Beatle.
Spax are OK as long as they are set to the softest position AND uprated springs are used, otherwise it does not make sense to thange them for lever arm dampers, so the information Iain gave you is the most satisfying solution, i think.

Although i use Spax in the Roadster and the GT, i would not go for this type of shocks a further time.
An other Roadster that i put together by now will be fitted with the Armstrong lever arm dampers and 30 % uprated valves.

Ralph
Ralph

I agree with the two previous Gents.
I am removing my Koni's.
I was told by a reputable mgb-builder that I should firstly try the Std lever arms, if they are too soft then fit the uprated valves.
Dave
D M Tetlow

Matt,
In my opinion the installation of gas shocks normally fitted to MGB's is frequently poorly engineered and as a result the entire concept suffers for it.

If a shock is too hard then it is too hard regardles of the type of damper. Replacing the gas shock with a lever arm because the gas shock is poorly matched is no different to changing to a better matched gas shock.

It is too frequently suggested because one poor example fails to achieve the intended result the entire range of gas shocks should be discarded.

Pete.
Peter Thomas

Totally agree Peter. However, there does not seem to be a well matched gas shock on the market, whereas the uprated lever arm damper seems to be well matched. Therefore, for most people this will be the best solution. The fact that it is also a lot cheaper than the well advertised and expensive gas shocks is just a bonus!!

Iain
67 BGT
I D Cameron

Like others above, I have gone back to lever arms from the PO fitted telescopics. In two sets they were only bearable on their softest setting. The first set leaked and were replaced at huge expense compared to lever arms, the 2nd then just got softer and softer and the adjuster had siezed. I *think* I read a few months ago that after years of selling telescopics Moss in the US decided to trial fit a set and surprise surprise found them way too hard. The claim was that they then sourced items with a better balance between hard and soft, but I don't recall any comments since. In any event on their own they add nothing except cost, unless used at part of a radical renegineering of the rear suspension, and that is only worth it if you radically up the power of the engine.
Paul Hunt 2

You see all sorts of people fitting (as pointed out, often badly designed) tube shock kits and solid bushings to their cars, either to feel 'racy' or just to be doing something to their cars.

Many end up as these posters, removing them down the road and going back to stock. Neither modification really enhances street use of these cars.

MNaybe you can sell the set 'hardly used' on Ebay! :-)
Bill Spohn

You bet.
Mine will be on E'bay next week.
D M Tetlow

Interesting to read this thread, I've just fitted AVO shocks on my MGA and they are fine. The point is that telescopic shocks listed for an 'A' and 'B' are similar lengths, when the axle on an 'A' is at it lowest point i.e. the rebound straps are fully tensioned the measurement between the mounting points is approx 13". The shock listed/supplied are 17" which compress to 11"(of this travel 1" is a bump stop)This means that there is 1" of proper shock travel the other inch being hindered by the bump stop rubber. I looked at several set ups- Spax and Koni and came to the same opinion, it seems that a lot of these could shocks could be bottoming out and not working correctly. I have bought a set of 13" AVO shocks which compress to 9" (their website is very good, all dimensions are on it and you can buy direct) I've calculted that I have enough travel with these before the shock or axle bump stops touch. Shock mounting brackets are available seperatly from Moss
Terry Drinkwater

most of us driving around on telescopic shocks have converted the cars due to problems with the aged lever arm shocks, so the difference will be felt directly.
It is a straight forward job and it is more modern than the original version when telescopics find their way under our cars, but do not compare them with the worn out ones they substitute.
All telescopic shocks for MGB applications are 'should work O.K.' solutions in the eyes of sales marketing, as thy work in every installation as a item of it's own and fit into the available space too.
Industry and dealers are interested in their sales, not in our comfort of driving, i think. They realy do nothing wrong or dangerous, they simply run their buissiness and sell what is good for their margin and does not rally fool anybody.
If they would offer remade lever arm dampers that do not fail soon at reasonable prices with a propper warranty, telescopic shocks would fade out very soon from our cars, i think. Seems that Moss and Co. have another lesson to learn?

Ralph
Ralph

I converted mine to Telescopic shocks 18 years ago. I use CarQuest Gas shocks (#738080) I have them on my 74 BGT.
I also converted my 70 BGT to the same shock. They were fine, but have sence chaged to air shock from CarQuest. I do not have the number of that shock It took more modification. I tow a trailer to hold luggage and have put over 10,000 mile on the Air shocks. I put 20000 on the first telescopic shocks.
I helped a friend with his 76 B With a V8 put the CarQuest shocks on his. He is happy with them

I do not regret changing over to the gas shocks.
One of our club members did the conversion and his rode badly. I do not know whast shock he used. He switched back to levers.

Good Luck
Steve

Steve

I have to add a comment about the tube shock conversion I did on my 72 roadster back about 10 years ago. I bought an inexpensive conversion kit from JC Whitney! My levers were badly leaking so I did the conversion. The kit was easy to install, and involved flipping the shock/spring attachment bracket to hold the new tube shock. The shocks themselves are not gas, but they dampen very well. They are not heavy duty or designed for any performance features, they just absorb shocks very well. Compared to the leaky levers, they were great, and remain so. I think the point for me is that the kit used a shock that is appropriate for the weight of the B. I did talk to the maker of the kit when I installed them, and he seemed to be a small shop in Oregon and probably engineered the brackets and selected the shock using his own car as the test bed. IMHO tube conversions work if the shock is right for the car.
David Burke

Tube shocks may well work if the shock is right for the car but very few of them seem to be. In addition the application of the front shock is all wrong being fitted on the rear side of the wishbone and thereby applying a twisting moment on the lower arms in operation.
Iain MacKintosh

Iain,

the Spax conversion you mentiened for the front is not an perfect design and your suggestions seem to be quoted by many others but you must not forget that some millions of Volvo 444, 544, 120, 140 and 164 also made use on this construction and this was not discussed as a bad solution.

In one of my B's i have them installed and they give a very different feeling to the normal lever arm shocks but for a fas road setup they are a good option if you make use of upgraded springs and do not run on poly bushes. This conversion does not put that exessive load upon the suspension arms as a 1" roll bar is capable for
On my other B that is not modified at all, i will keep the lever arm dampers, of cause and in the V8 too as there is insufficient room due to the RV8 style headers i installed.
BTW, if i compare the fast road roadster with the Spax at front to the 30% uprated lever arms in the V8, the lever arms give a more comfortable ride, i think.

Ralph
Ralph

Ralph,

Whilst I didn't admit to it I still have the Spax conversion fitted on the front of my roadster and it seems to be fine. I have dumped the rear Spaxes and fitted uprated lever arms and this is far more in keeping with the light rear end of the roadster providing much more stable handling. I take the point about the stiffness of the 1" roll bar but still do not think that the offset loading of the front Spaxes is good practice and am surprised to learn that this setup was used on production Volvos.
Iain MacKintosh

Not sure about 'light' rear end of any MGB, they are virtually 50/50 weight distribution.
Paul Hunt 2

I think it all comes down to how you use your car to be honest!! If you use it for spirited driving then the lever arms IMO just cannot hack it as they are too slow to respond - I have Spax combined with parabolics and found that too soft until turned the spax up a bit - shortly about to ditch the parabolics and go back to 1inch lowered uprated springs.

Lever arms are probably better if you cruise around without stressing the cars suspension too much - personally will never go back to lever arms but it is all about personal choice :)

I have just fitted the Moss front Bilstein kit in an effort to improve the front. Very interesting kit, will report how it makes the car handle when i get the old girl back on the road!
Julian C

Julian - completely disagree.

I have been racing with Armstrongs for more than 30 years (and have tried tube shocks) and I am afraid I don't know what you are talking about.

A new set of lever shocks with appropriate valving are excellent for fast driving - a lot faster than you will ever see on the street.
Bill Spohn

I don't know what 'too slow to respond' means either. If they didn't respond you would have solid suspension. If you mean they move with no damping then they are knackered.
Paul Hunt 2

This thread was discussed between 15/06/2007 and 25/06/2007

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