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MG MGB Technical - Side covers for 18V engine

Having spent over an hour trying to fit the two side covers to my engine, which is fully accessible on the garage floor, I thought I would seek the advice of others who have attempted the same thing.
Most will know that these panels are no big deal, requiring a single screw throught their centre to attach them to the block whilst trapping a rubber gasket to seal the gaps. It's the latter part (trapping....gaps) that has me bothered. I'm having particular problems with the front cover (with the separator) as the gasket is slightly smaller than the cover indent and will not stay 'stretched' whilst I get the beast onto the block and get the screw started. It also appears that alignment is critical or you end up with one of the gasket sides pushed into the hole providing a great leak path.
After much use of bad words I decided to apply some gasket sealant in the hope that this would hold the gasket to the cover long enough. It didn't, but I did manage to get it held onto the block whilst I tried to push the cover onto it. Some success here, after several attempts I may have the gasket in place and I may have a seal. Too many 'mays' for me. I do not have any confidence that I have a seal because I do not see how I can be sure that the gasket has seated correctly. As you all know this cover is not easy to get to when all is installed in the engine bay and an oil leak is not what we want after a rebuild.
I wondered if it is possible to attach the cover loosely (1 or 2 turns of the screw) without the gasket, and then to stretch the gasket over the cover. The idea would be that the gasket would slip between block and cover and fall into the cover indent before it had a chance to fall into the hole.
So fellow MG people, what are your solutions?
Richard Coombs

You shouldn't have to stretch the gasket to begin with. It would seem that it is of inferior quality and should be replaced with one that fits properly. When I install the breather/oil seperator, I apply a small bead of 3M gasket sealant on both sides of the gasket and on the hold down bolt seal. RAY
rjm RAY

Richard. The gasket kit should have several gaskets for the tappet covers--two rubber and two cork. Use the rubber gasket on the rear and a cork gasket on the front. I, too, glue the gasket to the tappet cover. I use a non-hardening gasket sealer on the engine to gasket contact surface.

Les
Les Bengtson

The gaskets should be the same - cork up to 69, rubber after 69.

R.
richard boobier

They're both rubber as required, and that's what came off. I'm going to check the dimensions of the old vs new tomorrow to see if Ray has a point.
Richard Coombs

Sorry I don't agree with trying to use the thick cork or rubber gasket on the front cover - always use a thin cork gasket and do replace the rubber rings seals on the bolts, make sure they are bolts (with a plain shank under the head) and use the correct cup washer.

Only use the rubber or thick cork gasket on the shaped later rear cover - early flat flanged rear covers also need the thin cork gasket.
Chris at Octarine Services

I've found that the rubber gaskets tended to 'squirm' under pressure (mechanical) and so I use cork gaskets at both covers.
I made up a template out of hardboard to the correct inside dimensions of the gasket. Carefully fitted the gasket around it and then cemented the gasket to the cover with Permatex 'hard'. After Permatex was set, removed the template and then fitting to engine with Permatex 'soft' was no problem.
Fraser
Fraser Cooper

Thanks Fraser. A decent solution to solve my problem.
Richard Coombs

You could also try heating the rubber gasket in very hot water to soften it before gluing it to the cover.
Rich McKIe

This thread was discussed between 04/02/2010 and 07/02/2010

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