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MG MGB Technical - side pillar windscreen seals


Hi All,

I'm replacing the rubber seals on the side pillars of my LE's windscreen. It looks like the aluminum retainer goes inside of the rubber seal once it is slid onto the inner retainer that is riveted to the windscreen frame. How do I get in there to put in the two screws if the outer retainer is inside of the rubber seal?

Thanks,
Dave
David Plantz

Some say to make a hole in the seal. Personally when I replaced my seals I just slid the old ones out and pulled the new ones in leaving the retainers in place. I don't see why you can't do that even if removing and replacing and/or refitting the retainers.
Paul Hunt

A couple of people I know have both said they don't bother. You remove the old one then as Paul says slide the new one in place. I don't think you really need anything to hold it there.

For some stupid reason I thought the flat aluminium strip was a spacer and put it under the retainer channel! When I riveted it all in place it all just fell off!

Simon
Simon Jansen


Paul and Simon,

I sort of thought about leaving the retainers out as well. I was just curious how they assembled them at the factory because it seems impossible to slide to seal over the retainer the screws onto the windscreen frame. Mine will slide right into the channels that are riveted on the windscreen frame with no problem and seem to hold on fine.

My problem now is getting the bottoms trimmed correctly to get the best seal where they meet the chrome finisher on the door. My doors are also very hard to close now which probably means I need to do some adjusting. Will adjusting from the 1/4 glass post do this or do I have to mess around with the windscreen alignment?

Thanks for your replies.

Dave
David Plantz

Windscreen *and* 1/4-light adjustment is critical if you are to avoid the dreaded 'crack of doom'. When closed the front face of the 1/4-light frame should just kiss the face of the rubber seal (screen fore and aft and angle adjustment). It should not depress it or as you close the door the last little bit the 1/4-light sticks against the seal and is pushed sideways, especially with new seals. The bottom bolt of the long 1/4-light leg should be set such that there is a gap all the way up between the side of the 1/4-light frame and the very thin part of the seal that is against the side of the screen upright. Again this prevents the 1/4-light being pushed sideways as the door is closed, and more importantly both adjustments stop the small amount of scuttle-shake on the MGB being transmitted into the 1/4-light. It is these sideways movements, together with a design weakness around the opening for the 1/4-light frame in the top of the door, that causes the crack. You might like to have a look at http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/wn_bodyframe.htm and click on 'Doors'.
Paul Hunt

PS, I have the bottom of the pillar seals cut such that they just brush the tops of the chrome finishers on the waist rails, the tops so they just meet the hood frame when fastened.
Paul Hunt


Hi Paul,

I read over your article on aligning the doors. Mine definitely need adjusting even though the car has never had the sills or rockers replaced (it has never rusted). Should I adjust everything with the doors first and then try to get the 1/4 lite windows to windscreen gaps adjusted? The seals for this are too thick, especially at the top of the 1/4 lite to windscreen meeting point. After removing the interior door panels I am unable to get the 1/4 lite frames to move sufficiently to let the door close with the new side seals in place. I was wondering if you had any suggestions.

Thanks for your advice.
Dave
David Plantz

This thread was discussed between 25/05/2009 and 09/06/2009

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