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MG MGB Technical - Squirting Fuel all over!!!

Finally got my 76 up & running again. After 2 long years of sitting in storage, my B fired up ready to spring out of the shed & out onto the open road.

Unfortunately it is also pissing gas out all over the place. I’m no mechanical genius but it looks to me like it is coming from some sort of over flow tube. See picture for poor reference. The 2 lines/pipes that are coming in from both sides near the top of the picture are coming from the carbs, and then run parallel down the side of the engine, at the end is where it squirts all over. I’m hoping someone can help me diagnose the issue, and cure her of her bladder issue.


J Barloon

This is for reference of my carb setup.

J Barloon

Your running HS-4's on your B - good carbs. After two years, would imagine that the fuel in your float bowls had evaporated and left a sticky finish on all of the internals - your needle valves aren't seating properly.

Disconnect fuel line from top of each float bowl, then remove the 3 screws that secures each. Lift off each top and disassemble the parts attached (i.e., float pin, float, then needle valve (should fall out). You can probably clean needle valve seat (brass thing about half inch long) in place using carb cleaner. Use mineral sprints or alcohol to clean the needle valve. Reassemble each top, connect to fuel line and hold inverted. In this position, with ignition on, fuel should flow only when you hold the float off of needle valve and stop when float is resting on needle valve pin (don't push it down - just gravity).

If the above doesn't solve your problem, you will have to get some new needle valves (with seats).

P.S.
Make sure your floats are intact - no fuel inside.
Steve Buchina

Is this a reliable fix? Meaning would I be better off rebuilding the carbs versus cleaning? $$ it makes more sense to clean first then rebuild if necessary. I would really like to get it home but, I need to drive over an hour to get to it,
J Barloon

J,

I would certainly have no problem with cleaning first and then rebuilding only if needed.

Charley
C R Huff

The carbs are unlikely to need much work, the SU is a highly reliable instrument. See threads on teflon coated needle valves/pressure regulators if all else fails.
Stan Best

If the needle & seats in your carbs are the type with the steel tipped needle order the viton tipped sets from Joe Curto.
John H

This thread was discussed between 11/05/2008 and 12/05/2008

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