MG MGB Technical Steering Column 1973 CB model BBS discussion at MG-Cars.info

MG MGB Technical - Steering Column 1973 CB model

Hi all, Searched but couldn't find what I wanted - Can someone tell me what parts I need, and/or show some images of the steering column (wheel end) I have just bought this car and need to get it sorted. Here are some images of my blank canvas - the previous owner had molested the steering column in fitting an Italian Motolita style steering wheel, and made an absolute dogs breakfast of it. I have removed the wheel and the crap that he had holding it on and as well he had fitted a non standard headlamp and indicator stalk. Maurie Prior

R M Prior

Back to the start - in the attached image you will note the inner shaft of my column protruding a fair deal, and I wondered if, 1. some one can tell me how much should be exposed, and 2. where does the top bush sit in relation to the end of the outer column? It would seem that the top bush has been forced down the outer column and cannot be withdrawn readily, and additionally, it seems the inner shaft, possibly has broken shear pins? because I cam slide it up and down several inches (about 3 inches or 75cms) I am in the dark with this and it is getting to me. Maurie

R M Prior

The indicator switch clamps right at the end of the column tube and the cowl fits around that in a position set by the switch. The position of the tube in the under-dash brackets is then set such that the flange at the end of the cowl sits just inside the wheel hub as in the attached. On the intermediate column the shaft is free to slide up and down in the tube, and its position is set by the UJ and the rack, which is why the tube position has to be set by the relationship between cowl and wheel. But if the upper half of your shaft moves in and out of the tube when the bottom half is attached by the UJ to the rack, then the shear pins have sheared. Info on that, and bushes, here http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/scolumn2.htm

paulh4

The locationing lump on the stalk goes into the slot as arrowed in photo below.

Nigel Atkins

I've messaged Maurie direct, but to confirm here: I've just spent a few hours fitting new steering rack which I bought before I realised I could fix the (missing) free-end bush on my other rack. Fitting the new rack included making up shims to get the alignment with the steering column right. Photo shows 2 x 20mm rubber chair tips which slipped over each shaft, with a self-tapper centred to make two pointers; shimming the rack and adjusting the column mounting brackets gave me a perfect alignment. As currently fitted, I have 19.3cms from the flat of the fascia to the end of the inner column. Could anyone confirm their measurement is about the same? As Paul advises Maurie, I need to loosen (for the umpteenth time) the outer column brackets to slip the tube up towards the back of the steering wheel for final setup of the switchgear, including in particular the horn contact. I have also fixed the sheared-off pegs, so should have a fully sorted steering setup ... finally! Good luck with your project, Maurie. John. I can't figure out why the F*#@*@#* photos change from right-way-up in my downloads, to upside down when I attach them - deepest apologies.

J P Hall

John, photos are probably because you're taking them on an i-can't phone or other portable device, or possibly you have it upside down when you take the photo, or it's the way it transfers to other device, I don't really know as, as you can tell, I loathe the things and avoid them as much as I can.

Nigel Atkins

Slightly off-topic, my Midget's outer column is slightly turned off horizontal for the stalk cut out and I thought if I loosened the clamping bracket it'd just turn but it didn't. Was I being too gentle in trying or did it need a bit of lubrication or is held elsewhere? I didn't want to damage the outer column and it was whilst I was doing other more necessary work plus it's been like it for years just that I notice the uneven indicator cancellation more now as I'm hardly ever able to use the car at the moment, and the photo promoted me to ask.

Nigel Atkins

Nigel The midget outer column has a mounting bracket welded to it, so it's not possible to rotate it. Well, unless your surname's Schwarzenegger. However, I took my column out a couple of days ago and that bracket fell on the floor. Someone had managed to tear it off.

Dave O'Neill 2

A bit of welding required.

Dave O'Neill 2

Thank you Nigel for righting my photos. Here's another one (again upside down - no silly jokes about it coming from Australia) I meant to attach, showing the dodgy home-made pointers that seem to have worked perfectly well. Thanks also to Maurie for letting us digress a bit. I'm still hoping someone will offer me a comparative measuring for the exposed portion of their inner steering column. I realise it's governed by the attachment at the uj, but I'm looking for a feeling of comfort before I finish off the job. Also, Maurie the OP is interested in the same measurement. Thanks all. John.

J P Hall

John, silly jokes, as if! Even if the i can't-device didn't flip the images the Chinese spyware might have, or put them back to correct, but then the Russian spyware flipped the images again, they would have went back to correct if the American spyware had been working! British spyware is out at the moment as no one has the coins for the electric meter, so -

Nigel Atkins

John H, Regarding your request for an image of the distance of the extended length of our CB GT's steering column inner shaft? I have sent you a separate message but thought I would share it here as well. My inner shaft is at 17cms, however I note you mentioned yours at 19.2cms? Maybe measured from different angle? (I hope the politically correct will not take offence, but can't help adding- "yours is bigger than mine"!) Maurie P

R M Prior

An image of the brand of the switch/lock, which appears to be the original factory fitted item? On the uppermost side,the ignition switch/lock is attached with what seems to be blind rivets, yet on the underside there appears to be threaded holes? How is this removed if ever found necessary? Maurie P

R M Prior

Lowe and Fletcher was one of several manufacturers over the years, including more than one at any one time. Yes they are shear bolts, but having had a car new with them not having been sheared off the dealer told me that was correct and they would shear when removal was attempted. What do I know? On the earlier front entry lock you can remove the lock with the column in-situ by drilling upwards using the tapped holes as guides as in the attached. Even easier if the column is already removed of course. Remove the switch first so that doesn't get damaged, especially if you are going to fit it to a new lock as I did. You can't do that with the later side-entry locks, the column does probably have to be removed first for those.

paulh4

Maurie, those shear bolts drill out very easily especially with the column out of the car, IIRC they're reasonably soft. My understanding of them, at least for use on something completely different, is that the head should be sheared off, possibly as a visual deterrent too(?) (and possibly also a check that they're as tight as they should be(?)). But here's a tip from experience, don't do them up too tight initially and certainly not to initially shear the heads off until you have fully road tested and checked the steering lock engages cleanly, (especially if fitting a new lock). I installed and checked three times everything worked as it should (parked up) but after the test drive the steering lock wanted to be a little awkward so I had to loosen everything to realign and try again, if I'd have sheared the heads off I'd have been stuck with an annoying slight misalignment (which didn't appear until after road testing). Fitting original parts back together you probably wouldn't encounter this but you never know for sure, better to double check what you've already triple checked as I've often found. As Paul suggests you definitely don't want risk a replacement new switch as they're costly or of dubious build quality. Sounds like the mangling might be because of DPO not properly knowing how to use the hammers technique to remove the steering wheel. Se JT vid number one. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lwf2BDC5DMo I had a perfectly good original B wheel bent by the specialist MG garage using an extractor tool (might have been hydraulic, can't remember now) so I always recommend the JT method. Shear bolt - 51K4001 - as it's also a part for a Mini plenty of places to get it from at reasonable prices. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390625999775

Nigel Atkins

The lock on my Midget seems to have been fitted with standard hex-heads, albeit with narrow heads. Also, the top half of the clamp looks like it’s been fitted the wrong way round.

Dave O'Neill 2

Dave, that was a clever temporary fit to check alignment but PO then discovered the shear bolts were out-of-stock. I read your post as 'arrowed' heads so had a good look at them to see what that means, doh! A trick Maurie's PO missed though.

Nigel Atkins

Well, I decided to refit the clamp the correct way and discovered that they are, in fact, shear bolts. I also discovered that I needed a 13mm spanner to remove them, and the threads are M8 x 1.25.

Dave O'Neill 2

Dave's may have been drilled out from the hex end, but gone too deep, so it is the hex that is clamping the fitting now and not the shoulder below it. On my replacement the hex stands proud. The closing plate IS handed, the small hole - purpose unknown - that is offset from the fixing holes should be towards the key end rather than the switch end, but what difference that makes in practice I don't know.

paulh4

This thread was discussed between 21/01/2021 and 23/02/2021

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