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MG MGB Technical - Steering rack dripping!

I have just rebuilt my steering rack, and have a drip of oil from the plate at the bottom of the pinion. New gasket of course.
Any suggestions for a sealer?

CP
Colin Parkinson

Hylomar Make sure plate is flat Jim
jim soutar

Colin . Have you checked if the lower bearing is protruding from the casing and that the cover plate gasket is thick enough to compensate, Jim
jim soutar

I've got the same issue, which I'm planning to fix with a homemade gasket of hopefully higher quality than the thin bit of paper they tend to come as.

Using a higher quality of gasket paper (slightly thicker, bought from a gasket supplier, $20/m2), coated with Permatex Black RTV, and finished with Permatex Aviation form-a-gasket on assembly. I've just done this with my other MG's steering rack - look ma, no leaks!
Curtis Walker

Hi Colin,

I think Jim has the answer. I've had this problem of the bearing protruding, which also caused the cover plate to be bent by about 1/2 mm. It needed to be filed flat and then the gap to be filled with several gaskets.

Herb
Herb Adler

I had a slight weep from that plate after I removed it to drop the pinion while replacing the oil seal. I replaced the gasket several times with different sealants and nothing worked. The cause eventually turned out to be weeping down the threads of the plate securing screws. A light coat of thread sealant on those screws fixed it without any need for gasket sealant.
Miles Banister

Miles,
Were you able to change the oil seal with the rack in the car?
Tony
Tony Shoviak

Tony,

Yes I was able to do that. I disconnected the UJ, then removed the rack damper and bottom plate, dropped out the pinion shaft and replaced the oil seal. Reassembly was just reversing the order, but with hindsight could have been easier. You want the pinion to go back in exactly way as it came out otherwise the UJ bolt won't line up with the cut out in the pinion. I marked the pinion before I dropped it, but as it twists on the way out that turned out to be almost useless. Knowing that, I would now mark the shaft after it stops twisting but before dropping it completely. Otherwise there's a bit of trial and error involved. I also changed the damper spring and pad while they were out. You'll need the front to be on ramps and maybe a bit higher than usual to allow space for the shaft to drop out. After you've changed the seal, protect its lip with some thin celluloid or similar when putting the shaft back. Don't forget to refill the rack with oil afterwards - allowing for whatever is in the gaiters unless you empty those first. It's not a big job and there's nothing scary about it.
Miles Banister

Miles,
That was just the information I was looking for. Thank you so kindly for taking the time to post it.
Tony
Tony Shoviak

This thread was discussed between 07/05/2010 and 10/05/2010

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