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MG MGB Technical - Temporary paint

I am hoping to start stripping my old paint off as and when I have time. Is there a temporary coating I can apply to keep the metal ready for "proper" painting later.
TS KING

I really wish I had not opened this thread. When I was buying my last lot of Dinitrol one of the sites I visited was pushing a long life primer. It was designed for exactly what you want, get the car to bare metal and then blow it over with the primer and leave it while you work elsewhere. The point being when you come back to the body work you dont need to remove it. I cant now remember where I saw it, although I remember thinking, if that stuff works, its worth knowing about. I hope its well known to other board memebers.
Stan Best

Stan,Is this the same stuff which BMH use for their shells?? Makes sense if it is.
Allan Reeling

Whats wrong with good old etch prime.
Its worked in the business for years with no issues.
Its OK using these new products but if it causes a reaction with the paint its a bare metal again to remove it.

Ste
Ste Brown

One of the easiest and cheapest ways of doing this is to wipe wheel bearing grease over the bare metal. Just remove it with thinners and panel wipe before applying the primer.
Iain MacKintosh

Or try to get some stuff called Keyphos. I used it on bare steel body panels and it kept them rust free for a number of years until I painted. You can just wet a rag with it and wipe it on.

It also has a nice, 'I probably shouldn't be sniffing this' kind of smell!
Simon Jansen

I Goggled Keyphos and most leads came back saying paint wont stick well to it.

Don't think WD40 is very easy to get off?

can you buy etch primer in aerosols?
TS KING

Use Bonda Rust Primer with Zinc. It's an epoxy primer with Zinc added.

http://www.autopaintsbrighton.co.uk/bonda-anti-rust-fast-drying-zinc-primer-25l-126-p.asp

I've just painted the whole of the underside of my GT with it, having got it all back to bare metal. A friend on mine, who used to be in the Motor Trade, said they bare-metaled a car and sprayed it with two coats of Bonda Primer and it was left outside to the elements for eighteen months before they could get back to work on it. There was not a single bit of rust breaking through.

There's a lot of recommendations for this product on various Classic Car Forums. Just Google Bonda Rust Primer.

Robert
Robert Lynex

Don't under any ciorcumstances even think of using WD40. This contains silicones which can be the very devil to remove from the metal and then get the paint to flow correctly without spotting. Even Panel Wipe will not remove it neither will abrasive paper. Just keep well away from it.
Iain MacKintosh

Robert
Can you over paint Bonda with 2K?
TS KING

DON'T use WD40 whatever you do. In time it stops dispersing moisture and starts attracting it!!!! I know of stored engines being seized solid because the owner sprayed it in the bores as a preservative. Plus it is a dvil to get rid of.
Allan Reeling

What about good old Waxoil, by Finnigans? It should be easy to remove when necessary? Mike
J.M. Doust

QUOTE-[Use Bonda Rust Primer with Zinc. It's an epoxy primer with Zinc added.

http://www.autopaintsbrighton.co.uk/bonda-anti-rust-fast-drying-zinc-primer-25l-126-p.asp]-UNQUOTE

Robert
I spoke to Auto Paints at Brighton, they advised Etch wash primer.

But the down side is that you have to prime and top coat very soon after as it adsorbs water.
TS KING

I looked again for that stuff I saw. I can remember it well, there was a pic of a 40s American car,it looked just like a Chevrolet my Nephew restored when it was 1/2 way done and we visited them. I even had a punt round in history, but I will try again. The USP was exactkly what you, and a lot of people on here wanted, prepare metal, spray leave then finish.
Stan Best

Waxoyl is no good either as it too contains silicones and you won't be able to get these easily out of the metal.
Iain MacKintosh

Use 2 part epoxy - PPG Omni AU or PPG DP40, brush it on, and its permanent. Why apply a temp coat that has to be removed? The epoxy is moisture proof.
Art Pearse

Yup, the DP40 is good stuff, and the color isn't bad if you want to drive it until warmer weather.

Charley
C R Huff

Epoxy prime in spray cans. It is extremely durable; it is two-part (you push a button on the bottom of the can to mix) and you have 24-hours of work time. I've used it under everyhtingm including under-cariage and engine parts.

TS Smith

A lot will depend on how the car is stored and how long it will be until you paint the car. i did mine over two years. I stripped to bare metal over 6 months and etched with a compatible etch primer. I bought 4 litres because I knew I would do the whole car. I also invested in a gun and compressor. Because mine was under cover and covered, I knew I might have to rub the etch back at some point if I took too long.

Talk to yout paint shop as paint is a science and to get it right you need to know that all substrates are compatible and how your prep should go.

My guys sold me the etch and undercoat that would eventually be compatible with my base and clear. i also chose to use compatible filler (bondo) so that the paint would last 10+ years without a re coat. Good paint is all about good foundations, lots of prep and compatibility. Plus if you have the paint and a gun, you can finish up each session by etching what you have done.
Al
A J Ogilvie

TS Smith - what is the brand of your spray can epoxy, and who sells it ?

Art
Art Pearse

I buy it at Paint Masters in Rochester NY (585) 475-1200

2-part epoxy prime in spray cans. They can probably point you in the right direction for acquiring it closer to home.

They suggested it on clean (beaded or abraised) bare metal rather than self-etching.

I've been very happy with it so far. It is a bit pricy, but very convenient as you can coat parts as you finish them... then apply filler or "sandable" primer over it.

Trey Smith
TS Smith

Is this spray-bomb epoxy something they prepare themselves, or is it a name-brand product we can ask for?

Cheers!
Rob Edwards

I'm sure its commercially branded and they resell it. I will check when I get home tonight, or if you call them , they will know what you're talking about.

Thanks, TS
TS Smith

Slightly different theme, if you go down the etch prime route do you use filler then etch prime? or etch prime then filler?
Thank's
TS KING

Isn't it both? Filler first, then primer, then dabs of filler for any remaining imperfections.
PaulH Solihull

I use epoxy primer first over rough steel (blasted or sanded), then follow with any other materials. If filler is then used, I will use the epoxy primer over it to "seal" it to prevent moisture absorbtion. You'll find the epoxy primer to coat well and actually provide a very nice sandable surface to begin prep for future standard primer coats. I have gone straight to the color coat for accessories with great results. The spray can primer that I'm using is called Spray Max. It is the infamous 2K, but is dispensed at low pressure, and still requires a mask and lots of ventilation; it is deceiving as it doesn't have a lot of odor. The color I'm using is beige.

Thanks,

Trey Smith
TS Smith

Thank's to all you guys who have responded to my post.
T S Smith, I have sourced Spray Max localy and will have a go with that.
Tim
TS KING

Have a look at Bilt Hambers products - I've found them excellent and gets top reports in all magazine tests etc.

They do a paint that would suit what you need - Etchprimer - its also a weld through primer - available in spray cans or 1/2 / 1 litres.

Keep away from 2 packs especially any with isocyanides in them, unless you are fully protected - much more damaerous than most think !

R.
richard boobier

Forgot the link :-



http://www.bilthamber.com


Richard.
richard boobier

As Paul says you do both with filler. Fill deep first, fibre, metal filler etc. let dry and set, I leave at least 24 hours, as when it goes off it can create problems with the paint. Then you would follow up with etch then spot fill as required. I put more etch on if I sand back to metal then high build primer over the top

Regards
A J Ogilvie

Hi TS,
As a painter and beater for more years than i care to remember i agree with Ste Brown and also use a good 2 pack primer, this is more than adequate, and DO NOT use WD40 or anything similar as you will have major silicone problems.

Spoggy.
Dave ( spoggy )

This thread was discussed between 12/12/2010 and 27/12/2010

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