MG-Cars.info

Welcome to our Site for MG, Triumph and Austin-Healey Car Information.

Parts

MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG MGB Technical - wire wheel adjustment

anyone have a clue on adusting the wires on a 73 mgb wire wheel so they run true. thanks les
l.f. frank

Les, I assume you are referring to the spokes. I would say it is a professional job - each wheel would have to be checked for balance every time a spoke was adjusted. The adjustment is in the tension of the each spoke...
If the workshop hourly rate is anything like that here in DK, it would be cheaper to change the hubs and get steel wheels!

/Moss


Moss

There are articles on this on the internet. Run a web search on "adjusting wire wheels" and see what you get. Last time I ran such a search there were several articles available. As Moss notes, this is not an easy job especially if the wheels are older and have some rust on the spokes and nipples. The spokes and nipples tend to rust together where their threaded areas meet, often making it difficult (sometimes impossible) to turn the nipples. In such cases, the spokes have to be cut and the spokes and nipple replaced. Cost of replacing all of the spokes (long and short) and all of the nipples is more than the cost of a new wire wheel.

The articles on the web often run several pages, frequently with photographs. (But, it has been several years since I last checked them--and much longer since I put up with wire wheels.) If you can fine such an article with a Google search you will have more information than can be posted here within reasonable limits.

Les
Les Bengtson

Les

I learned to do these when I was younger. The instruction on the internet are good and you can do this.

#1 issue is that you are going to have to replace a number of spokes and nipples. Spokes are currently $6.35 and Nipples are $1.10 or $7.45 per set

If you want to tackle this, first find a way to soak the rim in penetrating oil for a few days. You will still have some that will not unscrew and will need to be cut off.

You will also round off a few nipples before they let go. This will also require you to cut the spoke to get it off.

Some use heat to get the nipple to let go, but I am uncomfortable in heating the spokes as it could change the temper.

I use my rear axle with the car on jack stands as my jig. Here is a picture of the gauge I use. This has a magnet on it that I put on the inner fender well and then rotate the rim so the pointer is close to the rim at about the middle point (not the farthest out or farthest in).

http://rides.webshots.com/album/352945366wJDJVu

I have a set of originals from a 67 with 3 that are very good true. Can't say the splines are perfect, but they are usable. Happy to part with them.


Bruce Cunha

"it would be cheaper to change the hubs and get steel wheels"

Sacrilege!

I see references to periodically trueing wire wheels, but have needed to do that in the 22 years I have had them. I have broken a number of spokes over the years, which used to be a faff and an expense getting a tyre place to take the tyre off, taking it to the wheel place to get the spokes replaced, and back to the tyre place to get the tyre refitted. Subsequently got a spoke spanner and can change them myself now in a few minutes, which *doesn't* need the tyre to be removed, only deflated and pressed off the rim, but since then I've only had to change a couple, and none for the past couple of years!

Just tweak the spokes (if you can, soak with penetrating fluid if not) until it runs true on a front hub, then take it to a tyre place to get it balanced.

It's that last step that might cause the biggest problem, if they use a computer balancing machine and don't have the correct cones to mount the wheel. With the clamps and cones used for modern stud-mounted wheel holds the outward face of the wheel on the inside of the hub instead of the machined taper on the outside, which may well indicate it has a massive run-out when it doesn't, as well as give a very poor balance. I've had cones machined which my tyre place are happy to use on their machine, that hold the wheel by the correct faces.
PaulH Solihull

It might be worth checking out some motor bike garages.
c cummins

Paul...sacrilege indeed (I was pointing out the professional cost of spoke adjustment not giving an encouragement to change to steel wheels and hubs).
/Moss
Moss

Paul. Moss' comments may be "sacrilege", but I agree with them and have changed all of our wire wheel equipped daily drivers over to steel wheels/alloy wheels. The cost of a complete set of new spokes (40 short ones, 20 long ones, and 60 nipples) is $375 here in the US. Then, you have to remove all the old spokes and nipples, install the new ones, and true the wheel using the old (frequently worn) hub and the old (frequently dinged) rim. A new wheel costs $235 and gives you tuned spokes; a new, unworn hub; and a new, undinged rim. To put on your old, quite possibly worn, hub.

If you have to replace any great amount of spokes, you are better off purchasing a new wheel. But, even the "Knockoof Sport Wheels" that Moss sells for $325 each are less expensive than replacing all of the spokes in a wheel. And, my experience of the thirty years I used wire wheels was that once one spoke breaks, the others are stressed in an abnormal manner and are frequently weakened. Replacing the wire wheels on my cars lead to less required wheel maintenance and, no surprise, better handling on the race track.

Les
Les Bengtson

There's no substitute for shiny chrome wires against Black Tulip paintwork. I pondered long and hard whether to do the conversion *to* them 23 years ago, which was the most expensive part of the restoration, and still glad I did even though it takes an hour a wheel for a full clean. Each to their own.
PaulH Solihull

Paul,

(Les, Sorry to "highjack" the thread)

I would be very keen to see the combination you have there, chrome wires with black tulip is extremely close to what i am looking at for my full respray.

Already have a new set of chrome wires and thought black tulip would be an excellent contrast to the abundance of quality chrome my '67 b offers.

Would you be willing to share a pic or two?

Regards,
C Brennan

This is probably the best representation of the colour - taken by an RAF professional rather than me!

http://tinyurl.com/chthwah
PaulH Solihull


Thank you Paul - you're a good man!

I am impressed with the combination of dark tulip and chrome, it does work well indeed! Not to mention that it is something out of the ordinary as well.

Cheers,

C Brennan

This thread was discussed between 20/04/2012 and 02/05/2012

MG MGB Technical index

This thread is from the archives. Join the live MG MGB Technical BBS now