MG-Cars.info

Welcome to our Site for MG, Triumph and Austin-Healey Car Information.

Parts

MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG MGF Technical - Boot lid wiring

Hi all,

Just got home and noticed that the light went on then off as I opened the boot .. on closer inspection I found that all but 1 of the wires in the sheath had broken. I have cut this and insulated the possibly live ends.

It looks a b***er to fix as there is very little room. Any thoughts on which wires I need to be careful not to cross? There look to be several black and several purple/red ones, so I am nervous of shorting things out.

The car is a MY2000 with lid brake light. It appears that the car will no longer double-lock, so I hope this is only the boot-open sensor now disconnected.

Thanks for any help!

Graham.
Graham Berridge

There's no specific boot lid wiring diagram online anywhere ... currently.

Try instead http://www.mgfcar.de/schedules/index.htm

Or wait for Will's summary message :)
Dieter K.

Thanks Dieter. From the interior lamps diagram it looks like the boot switch P/R wire goes to the boot light via the Alarm, so doubles out of the boot and back again: explains why there are more wires than I expected!
So there is
<12v> P <boot switch> PR <Alarm sensor> PR (back in) <light> B <Gnd>
<Alarm> BR <Key switch> B <Gnd>
<Brake switch> GP <HLBL> B <Gnd>
if I am interpreting correctly.

Connecting up should not matter too much then as long as all Black are the same: PR to PR incorrect will not change the path.

Anyone got suggestions for protecting the fix?

Graham.
Graham Berridge

Look closely at the breaks...you may be able to match individual wires by the shape of the remaining insulation.

I used loads of black insulating tape... and cut the cable tie holding it to the boot hinge..I think it puts too much strain on it.

You'll be swearing a lot..theres not a lot of room in there.
Grahame

>and cut the cable tie holding it to the boot hinge..I think it puts too much strain on it.

The *true* problem at most MGF is the direction where the lid loom gets out of the main harness (LH below the hinge).

At most I've seen it gets out rear bottom and then upwards behind the main harness. About one inch length gets lost in this way.

I've seen myself other (better led) where the harness is led from rear below upwards and then directed with smooth cuve to the hinge. The resulting loop is much more flexible without straint at the cable tie.

Sample for bad:
http://www.mgfcar.de/defects/boot_harness_sc00650.jpg
(left hand black hose with blue stripe coming up in the 'wrong' way)
(red oval mark shows the hose wrapped with isolation tape to get it stronger)

At any time when I've done all other none finished, I'll swap this at mine.

HTH
Dieter
Dieter K.

I've moved the cable right out of the way with some insulation tape: too late, though, as the interior lights/radio/clock fuse had gone. This is the right/bottom 15A fuse in the driver's fuse box - I had got spares from my local dealer ... I hope the 10A lasts until I can get a 15!

Graham.
Graham Berridge

This thread was discussed between 17/12/2003 and 18/12/2003

MG MGF Technical index

This thread is from the archives. Join the live MG MGF Technical BBS now