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MG MGF Technical - Clutch Replacement Procedure - Conclusion

Hi All, (warning - very long post)

Thought I would do an update to my original post about a clutch replacement procedure.
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(See "Clutch Replacement Procedure"
Posted 25 February 2005 at 13:21:28 UK time)
(and FYI, "Slipping Clutch" Posted 12 February 2005 at 12:41:41 UK time)
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Well I finally completed my clutch change and it was certainly a bit of hard work, but in the end....well worth it.
I did come to the conclusion to do this type of work though, its best to be a strapping young 20 year old and a contortionist!! (none of which I am)

I had diagnosed it correctly and it was indeed the clutch that needed to be replaced. After i got to it, I found that the thrust bearing was noisy, rattley and dry. The friction plate had (on the pressure plate side) worn down to the studs and the springs were loose inside their cavities. The pressure plate had been heat cracks, groves and scoring caused by the studs of the friction plate.
I also had to remove and machine the flywheel as the slipping had over-heated it and created small surface cracks and heat spots.
I now have personal hands on experience in the DIY clutch replacement procedure and have taken step by step notes that I wrote with guidence from the workshop manual and some great advice from David Mottram. (Many Thanks David)

I will get it typed up soon (if I can read my own chook scratchings) and if anyone is interested just e-mail and I can send you a copy.
But beware, this is a lengthy methodical step by step procedure that most will be able to follow, But, impatient people will have trouble with it.

Also I would like to update some of the earlier posts as it seems that some are in the dark with changing a clutch.

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Posted 25 February 2005 at 15:16:54 UK time
stevo, ireland
Your mechanic must be a magician ! Engine out job.

stevo, Engine does not have to come out and I'm no magician. Just practical. :-)
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Posted 25 February 2005 at 16:45:10 UK time
JohnP, Herts TF135 2004
Quick look at Manual
Remove gearbox to get at clutch but leave engine in:
....
72. Lower subframe sufficiently to allow gearbox
removal.

John, No need to remove gearbox, just seperate away from engine.
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Posted 25 February 2005 at 17:57:53 UK time
Anthony, Switzerland
A Swiss garage changed the clutch on my '96 MPI 4 years ago without taking out the engine or gearbox.
IIRC he dismantled the left rear wheel and part of the suspension linkage and did it in situ.
Sorry I can't give you more details but I remember seeing the F on a lift with all in place except the rear wheel.
I know he didn't need to depressurise the hydragas system though, because he doesn't have a hydragas pump.
HTH

Anthony, almost spot on, but you need to remove both drive shafts etc, for the gearbox to move to the left away from engine.
-------

cheers,
Branko (with car that now mooooves)
Branko

Cool, I look forward to the writeup (did you take pics too?) I'm sure both Rob and Dieter would gladly donate a little bandwidth to this.
Will Munns

Unfortunatly no pics as I don't have a digital camera as yet.

I'll look at my scribbles in the next few days and see how I go with getting it into text.

Branko

Eager on :)is >> MGF at MGCC dot DE <<
Will share with master Rob in any way.

Have some other than already posted images of the new parts aswell. (Stolen from Ebay adverts) ;)
Dieter K.

LOL nice one Dieter :o)
Rob Bell

Hi branko,

Glad your car is now moving, quick question what clutch ( Standard mg or after market )did you fit and how much did it cost where did you but it etc.?

Regards Mike D
M L Dippenaar

Hi Mike,

Yes, it's great to have her on the road again.!

I bought the clutch from here: http://www.eai.net.au/ENGLISH%20VEHICALS.htm
(Talk to Adrian)

The clutch is OEM equivalent standard, stanped "Made in Britain" by (I think) Quiton Hazel. Part number QKT664AF $195 +gst = $215.

I fitted my own clutch and have just now completed a DIY procedure for what I did.

I can send you a copy if you want.

Infact if anyone wants a copy I can send it to you.
Just drop me an email. It's about a 73 step process just to get the clutch out and about the same to put it in. (So it would be too long to post here.)


cheers,
Branko.
Branko

Will, Dieter and Rob
you expressed interest in the clutch replacment procedure.

Just email me and I will send you a copy.

cheers,
Branko.

Branko

See inbox and thank you in advance
:)
Dieter K.

No problems...

will email you toninght.

cheers,
Branko.
Branko

Dieter,

"you have mail"

Cheers,
Branko
Branko

Got it.
Looks great !! :))))

.... before the thread moves to the archives.
One of Branko's brief description can currently be found here
http://www.mgfcar.de/gearbox/clutch_replacement_MGF.htm

*under construction*, needs some more additional HTML works and drawings/images though.

Dieter K.

Thanks Dieter,

Hope somebody will make use of it sometime.

"brief" LOL.

cheers,
Branko.

Branko

Looking good - I guess we'll need to get some pictures together to help illustrate what's going on in each instruction step?
Rob Bell

Rob,

yes, pics would most certainly help. It was a shame I could not take any. Must buy a digital camera that has a macro zoom.

We could "borrow" some of the drawings from the CD manual.....but that could make Rover mad?

Cheers,
Branko.

Branko

LOL - I suspect they may get a little irked, but if it is not for profit...?
Rob Bell

I'll just have to work out how to capture the pics from a PDF doco and convert to jpeg.



Branko

Acrobat 6.0 will let you cut out images from a PDF document. Tools/Basic/Select Image and lasso what you want. Or click the Select Image button on the tool bar, then click/copy the image you want.
Neil Courtney

Ahh, that it!

Thanks Neil.

Branko.

Branko

>capture the pics from a PDF

in _this_ case.... ;)

use simple screen capture:

- enlarge the section of the doc you need to Monitor display size.

- key *print* button on your PC keyboard.
(the one right hand beside *F12*)

- open grafics software (Paintshop Pro or similar)

- paste as new image
- cut to frame size needed
- decrease to app 800 dots width
- adjust to app 40% jpg compression (nuff for web or DOC.
- save as jpg

Sample: http://www.mgfcar.de/hgf/cover.jpg

But never, never include the screenshot to a MS word Doc directly.
Each image will be about huge 3Megs if you paste to MS Word.

;)
Errrrm, take care, I see you getting a webside junky :) Look at me how this ends ...
LOL :)

Rgds
Dieter
Dieter K.

Thanks Dieter,

I will give it a go.

Will send you seperate files to you to add to your site.

cheers,
Branko.

Branko

Hi Dieter,

I have finally found some time and updated my clutch replacement document to include some figures.
I have sent you e-mail, so please update your website with the new material and post a link here when you are ready.

Cheers.
Branko.
Branko

Got it. Thank you.
I'll work it out soon.
Dieter K.

Dieter,

Just had a look at the site.
You have done a great job of the presentation.

Makes me want to do another clutch (not)!

Thanks again,
Branko.

Branko

*g ... not yet ready...
Will add some extra links to i.e original pictures and original tools.
Great idea with the flywheel locking tool btw.

I think the guys will find it useful. The stats of the site will tell us.

Another question regarding:

>Clutch Aligning tool.

How did you get or do this shaft ?
Are measures availiable for a lathe part ?
Dieter K.

Dieter,

It's funny, but I borrowed a clutch aligning tool from my brother-in-law. But I actually did not use it as that type was too long to use inbetween the space of gearbox and engine.
I actually used a deep socket which was almost exactly the OD size needed.
But now I don't know which socket I used. :-( Sorry.

You can buy other clutch alinging tools that are cheap, universal and shorter and have lots of different size fittings that you can use for different clutches.

Cheers,
Branko





Branko

not sure what model you've been discussing,
ive just had the clutch changed on my 416 sli n reg
fitted ok but the clutch is slipping, thats where the trouble starts, how to adjust the piston on the hydraulics,
i can see by the colour of it that it was a good 2" in the cylinder, but cannot get it pushed back in far enough.....help!!
m korky

<not sure what model you've been discussing,>

Korky - do you think it could be an MGF?
Ted Newman

Hi, m korky,

MGF 1998 5 Speed manual with 1.8i engine.
It's shown in the procedure on Dieters site. See above.

You cannot normally adjust the piston position as such. I don't think the push rod has any locknuts which could be adjusted.

Is there some slack on the pushrod and lever when the clutch is fully out?

Branko

there is no slack at all,there's an identical picture here http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v521/Ex-biker/Marlin%20pics/IMG_3282.jpg
the rod only goes in a small bit,and there's no bleed valve to push it in further,
to get it fitted,he had to force the lever back further,which he said whats causing it to slip
m korky

What car is this actually from? What year?
These pics don't look like MGF 1998.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v521/Ex-biker/Marlin%20pics/IMG_3280.jpg
It looks like its from an old car.?




Branko

This thread was discussed between 16/03/2005 and 11/04/2005

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