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MG MGF Technical - Cooling System - Definitive

Hello Folks!

I have a standard 2001 MGF VVC with a standard cooling system and whilst I have it in bits, giving it a bit of TLC, I want to modify the cooling system to do my utmost to prevent an HGF. Therefore I would like to know if I should fit a PRT with TF tubing or a QED Remote Stat kit?

Before you shoot me down in flames and tell me to look in the archives, I have done! In fact I have spent many hours exploring my options and I cannot find a definitive answer.

I have read David Monks' informative article, Rob Bell's website and spoken to the chap at QED and I am none the wiser as to which option is considered to be the most effective.

I have standard underbody pipes so will be replacing those with S/S and will be changing all the pipe clips for S/S ones too. There is a new water bottle with a level sensor that appears to have been introduced to 05 TF's so would that be a simple fitment too? I have also seen on the MGOC website something called "Water Wetter" and "4-Life" Coolant, will these offer any improvements over a standard OAT solution? Also has anyone got any idea about a product called "Prestone" which has been recommended to me by a non-MGF owning friend?

So basically given a standard cooling system, what should be done to get the most reliable, best performing sytem?

Alright guys... Shoot!

Nick
Nick Atkins

Good questions Nick. I looked at 'water wetter' on the net and read some good things from the makers and found quite a lot of very adverse stuff too, from users with no commercial axe to grind. I think it contains silicates which is questionable, apparently.
I couldn't see the point in '4 life' coolant as you could just as easily leave OAT in too long; what guarantee have you if anything goes wrong - two let alone five, years down the line. I stayed with the old fashioned ethylene glycol in a reduced concentration as it had been in (and regularly replaced) for ten years. The internal passivation of the surfaces is a chemical treatment - change the chemical and it must change the chemical erosion/deposition further.
I believe 'fit and forget' solutions tempt you into a false sense of security and checking the coolant visually, AND with the fitted level alarm daily is no great hardship. The Mk1 eyeball seldom lies.
I would have gone PRT if a kit was available when I fitted the SS underfloor pipes last year but have been perfectly happy with the OEM cooling since - including touring in hotter parts of Europe last month.
I look forward to other opinions on the subject!
Charles

What was the engine build date or car build ?? March 2001 saw the introduction of the steel cylinder head dowels to replace plastic dowels. At the 1st Cambelt change when the engine was accessible, I had the head off to change the dowels and a quality rebuild by a local specialist.
Your look in the archives will have shown that rather than retrofit the MGR coolant level switch, the B&G Kit is prefered by many.
The PRT kit is a nice to have but is it justified if you allow the oil to warm before thrashing the engine.
At the end of the day, it depends on what for/how you use your car and the budget.
A basic recommendation would be to replace any rubber coolant pipe that you disturb if it is over 5 years old. This includes if you change to SS clips as the rubber will have set to the old clips giving a good chance of a leak.
Geoff F.
Geoff Farthing

4 life is not for life :) 10 years I think. Be aware that it is "water free" which means you can't top it up at a service station, BUT it claims not to expand with heat, so it should be much kinder on seals (esp the head gasket).

Fit the Rover PRT, it is designed for this application and widens the bypass pipe to ensure that the engine always gets a good flow of water. The QED thermostat simply moves the thermostat from the cold side to the hot side of the engine, you can see from the pics that the bypass is small.
Will Munns

I understand the later expansion tank with level sender is an easy retro-fit, but there are also other options such as the "Lo-larm" and the Brown and Gammons kit.

Also, be sure not to neglect the fans and associated wiring. The only time my TF has overheated (touch wood) was when the engine coolant temperature sensor contacts had corroded, sending an erroneously low temperature reading to the ECU. As the radiator fan is driven by the ECU based on this reading it's rather important! It also controls fueling, timing, etc but my experience was that it was out just enough to prevent the fan ever coming on whilst not registering an error code or providing any noticable other ill-effect. It's a poor design - the ECU won't register a fault unless the sensor fails completely (goes open circuit or provides readings which are blatently wrong).

Finally, don't forget that overheating is only one cause of HGF (even if it is the most common). Even with the best cooling system in the world you might still get unlucky - I would make sure the cooling is up to scratch, put in easy/proven mods such as the PRT, SS pipes and coolant level indicators and enjoy the car.

Cheers,
Tim
T Jenner

Ok, so the PRT is the preferred mod then! Just to confirm, is the "Cooling hose TF 04 onwards CVT only" on the MGOC webpage below, the complete kit? If so it is also a lot cheaper than the QED Remote Stat which is £125.

http://www.mgocaccessories.co.uk/acatalog/MGF_COOLING_HEATING.html

Geoff, My MGF was built in Jul 01 and is an early 2002 model according to Dieter. It has done 47K with the previous owners and has not had a HGF as far as I can tell.

Tim, I will be testing the fans when it is sorted and I have changed underbonnet fuse 6 to 20A already.

I also think that I should get a new radiator bleed nipple from Mike Satur whilst I have the cooling system drained.

Nick
Nick Atkins

Nick

You have the right unit, ie the one with a grey PRT. I bought mine as a landrover part (from stock!) for about £49 but the tubing needed modifying to get it to fit my F. I mounted it as high up at the front as I could get to keep it away from high kerbs and stones, but it still looks a bit vulnerable. You also need to remove the old thermostat from near the engine, take out the centre works, then replace the outer ring only using a fresh gasket.

I found the B&G high level alarm re-assuring to begin with, but recently it has started giving false alarms, so it is currently disconnected. I suspect the sensor might have slipped off, but I don't have time at present to check it.

Chris
Chris

This thread was discussed between 07/07/2008 and 08/07/2008

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