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MG MGF Technical - Head Gasket

How much better are the new multi layer gaskets than the old type?
Maverick

How long is a piece of string?
Charless

I think Charless is trying to say the drop in HGFs is due to a series of modifications and the multilayer gasket is just one of them.

If your engine is currently ok, you can buy some peace of mind by modifying the coolant circuit in line with current thinking by fitting a low level alarm and modifying the coolant circuit using Land Rover parts, but don't use the OEM circlips in the kit, use jubilee clips such as the ones Mike Satur sells in stainless steel.

Chris

Chris

What exactly are these cool circuit modifications. Brian
B Smith

Maverick do u need a good mg garage cos i know one in stockton they just sorted my trophy out with new headgasget good price to the two lads that own it worked for mg b4 the opend there own garage up
pd dixon

What I meant to question is the interest and knowledge of the original question, posed under a pseudonym.
The archive is full of information about the question if you want to look. There are several other free websites where opinions are available for a few mouse clicks. Ultimately it can only be opinions.
Does anybody know how to quantify and qualify in what respect one is better than the other? A meaningful answer is longer than a sentence and would depend on a host of other factors. Engine age and present condition, budgetary restrictions, commercial or home replacement? At what engineering comprehension level should the answer be pitched?

Charless

Careless you pretentious git. It was a simple question which requested a simple answer. Perhaps if I had worded in the following way you may have understood it better.

Dose aniwone noe if them Nue gaskits last longer than them olduns does enybody noe if a new wone has failed kwik like.
Maverick

And as nobody else has felt tempted to come up with the simple answer you seek, maybe there isn't one. Which is exactly my point.
Charless

Your question is the subject of this poll (and discussion) which is on a sticky at the top of the threads.

http://forums.mg-rover.org/forumdisplay.php?f=12

In fairness to Chareless the jury is out and like the HGF subject there is lots of differing opinions and posts.

Alreet there hinny hope I've helped yee.
Jon Baker

You see Charless, the reply from John was exactly what I was asking for. I feel that a forum is a place to exchange information in a helpful and constructive way and not to question the question. Sometimes the answer is to pass on information as to the whereabouts of further information so as to save time and effort trawling the web.
Thanks john. It's nice to see we Northern folk understand each other, Perhaps it's a desire to cut out the smart stuff and get on with the job.
The reason for the question in the first place is that I am a victim of a catastrophic Timing belt tensioner failure and the question of weather to replace the HG on the replacement low mileage engine whilst it's on the bench. I think I must really.
Maverick

I shouldn't but....
OK then M - how does that .org thread that I would have thought you might have been interested enough to be aware of (like at least two others on free website archives) provide the single correct answer to your original question?
What is your conclusion from all of those replies?
Will it be the same answer for all other cases?
Are they better?
Charless

Ok. Chuck. I am obviously the child of a lesser God. I would like to take this opportunity to apologise unreservedly to all those who wasted their time reading my question. Anyone who spent even more time replying to the question. To the website for taking up valuable space, My Isp provider and computer manufacturer for using their products and services in such a wasteful way. To my wife for spending time on this subject when I could have been attending to her wants and needs, but most of all to the heirs or successors of MG Rover for being in possession of one of their products whilst being too stupid to deserve it. Finally to you Chuck pleas let me have your contact details so that if I ever think about contacting the site again I'll check the wisdom of the deed before I do.

MGF For sale or free to anyone who can ask a question.
Maverick

Maverick,

Your welcome !

Have a look at this thread in the archive

http://www2.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgbbs&access=&mode=archiveth&subject=69&subjectar=69&thread=2007121322281116266

Now that has a link to this thread

http://www2.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgbbs&mode=archiveth&archiveyear=69_2006.dat&access=&subject=69&subjectar=69&source=T&thread=200602110717289578

which contains a cross posting from :

http://forums.seloc.org/today.php you'll need to register to look in the archive but its free.
Jon Baker

In my experience whihc is considerable, the MLS gasket is less tolerant of discrepancies in liner heights, if your liners are less than 4 thou proud of the block or are inconsistent then you would do better to use a regular elastomer type Payen BW750 head gasket, if your liner heights are perfect then the MLS gasket offers two advantages

i) the shim protects against gasket fire ring dig in and against anomalies in the surface of the head (voids and porosity)that might cause failure across the fire ring
ii) the swaged metal shims give a more reliable and robust seal to the coolant jacket than the old elastomer type although the latest gaskets are much better in this respect.

Dave
Dave Andrews

While the heads off Maverick you should consider fitting a PRT.

If the heads been wrecked then a second hand head from Dave or Mike Satur that has been flowed would be cheaper than a stock xpart replacement
Jon Baker

I have been advised that my cylinder liners are less than 4thou proud and actually below the surface in part. The advice is to have the block skimmed and the cylinedrs machined to within tolerance. However I saw on one web site that if the liners are below the surface the block needs to be replaced. what say you?
(sorry for the long question - a short or long answer would be much appreciated)
Peter Dawes

The fix is to remove the rods, liners and pistons (this csn be done with the engine in situ) and linish the top of the block with a flat plate and wet/dry paper until the liners are 4 thou proud, it is not hard to do, but it is time consuming and messy and you have to be careful to keep the block flat. You cna pakc the blokc with newspaper and the bolt holes and oil delivery hole with workshop wipe to prevent ingress of the detritus, it usually takes around 2 hours to do the work and around 5 hours to remove the rods, liners and pistons and replace them after. Make sure you renew the big end bearings and mark the liners with their radial orientation and cylinder number before disassembling.

Dave
Dave Andrews

This thread was discussed between 04/10/2008 and 27/10/2008

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