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MG MGF Technical - Here we go again...

So on Saturday, 1 week after the cylinder liner replacement and I'm out enjoying the sunshine with top down but keeping the revs below 3000.

By the end of the day I'm just starting believe that maybe all the reliability issues are behind, when it happens!

As I kick it into reverse (luckily to back on to the drive) the gearstick gives way with a snap and I have no gears, other first.

Yes, the gear shift cable had snapped and at the usual point.

Sundays plans changed at that moment! After some research I decided to try remove the cable without dropping the subframe etc (thanks to Rob and Valter for this). It took most of Sunday but its out (along with most of the interior).

Today I've been looking for a new cable and have found one on flea-bay for £60 (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BRAND-NEW-SHORT-Gear-change-Cable-Rover-MGF-/230477057399?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item35a980cd77). Seems a very good price but the only question mark is about the quality. The seller says he has them made for him but has yet to answer where they are made.
Does anyone have any experience of these or alternatively know where to get one at the best price - cos the old wallet is pretty empty after recent events.

Also, as these OEM cables appear to have a weakness/design flaw (stress fracture at the crimp point of the gearbox balljoint), is there an improved re-designed part now available? Does the TF part fit and has it been improved?


Chris.
Chris Bond

Oh no Chris! Your luck must sure change soon???

It's always the short cable isn't it? I don't know that the TF short cable can be fitted as a direct swap, as I recall it's around 8cm shorter than the MGF one.

This trader has a good product to sell hasn't he? Were's it made? Well, I bet China - but that's a guess, but at the moment, if you want low-volume parts fabricated, it is currently cheaper to source from China. I know of a few MGF/TF aftermarket parts being manufactured in this way. Quality need not be compromised by doing this - but obviously, one can't comment on this cable... FWIW, he's got a good ebay score - so it can't be all bad, but feedback tends to be instant, and says nothing regarding longevity.

Worth a punt? I think so.

Regarding the ball joints - yes, you're right, the cable snaps inside the crimp joint at the gearbox end. Unfortunately, not an uncommon problem (along with deteriorating rubbers etc). I believe Tech_speed and also I think Mike Satur replace these with rose-joints as part of their slick/quick shift upgrades. Might be worth a call to verify this - but of course, this will bump up the replacement costs.

Let us know what you do - I am interested to hear about this alternative supply of short gear selector cables, and whether they are something that we can trust.
Rob Bell

Hi Rob,

I truly hope so!

Re the flea-bay cable - you can understand my wariness, given the grief you have to go through to replace it. I do not want to be doing this again in the near future due to a substandard part.

Still, I'm going to give it a go, as the bank balance dictates I must.

At least I can attend the water leak whilst the interior's stripped out (and change the clock).

Wish me luck on the install.

By the way, when I took the centre console out, I found a satellite tracking system under there. Which now explains the mysterious twin cables in the fuse box. I might try flogging it on flea-bay to recoup some of my losses!

Chris.
Chris Bond

Ah ha! Another tracker system found! No idea what they're worth, but certainly worth a punt.

And you're right, if the interior has to come out, might as well do a few other jobs while you're there.

I need to take out the interior in mine for a few electrical projects, including a fresh ICE install, heated seats project and a few other odds and ends that I have had planned for ages but not yet got around to doing!!!

Good luck with the cable instal. If you're taking pictures, it would be great to up-date Valter's instructions :o)
Rob Bell

Good luck Chris, take some comfort that you didn't need a new cable a few years ago when stocks could dry up for months on end.
bandit

Cable arrived today and to my pleasant surprise it appears to be a reasonable quality item - only time will tell for sure if it is.
But for now, my concern at car parts sourced from China has been slightly diminished. The only thing not correct was the missing grommet!

So this weekends activities are sorted! I'll take some pictures for you Rob, let me know how to send them to you.
Chris Bond

When you get through your task list to the point of fitting the clock, ask yourself whether Mrs Bond would mind if you swapped the oil temperature gauge into the clock position. 5 minutes extra work, and IMHO much more in keeping with the 'driver's car' ethos. Whenever I see the original layout I get an urge to reach for the screwdriver and small socket set...
bandit

Thanks Chris, and good luck. My email is robert dot bell at doctors dot org dot uk

Bandit, yes, I agree - good idea to swap the clock and oil pressure over. I did this many moons ago. Seems to make more sense to me!
Rob Bell

Fully agree with you both and had spotted it on an earlier thread, so switched them over last night. Unfortunately it took numerous attempts, due to the O-ring not seating properly and the plastic plate refusing to fit properly. Eventually I worked it out that the o-rings need to be seated in the fixing plate first and with a smear of soapy water the gauge and clock both seated.
Showed Mrs B what I had done (just to get her approval) and realised after all the messing around, I'd put them back in the original positions - Doh!!!!
Chris Bond

ROFLMAO!!!
Rob Bell

So its done - but what a ball ache!
Rover must have started with the floorpan installed the 4 cables and built everything else around it.

It is possible to do it without dropping the subframe but you need the following: small hands (2 pairs), fine ratchet swivel head ring spanners and PATIENCE!!
It's difficult to describe as there is no hard and fast procedure, once the plate is removed it is just a matter of trying to work the grommet out and then the cable and you need one working from the top and one underneath.

Strangely, the biggest headache proved to be getting the cable adjusted correctly, as I started with it on the shortest adjustment which, as I eventually worked out is wrong. This led to the gearstick fouling everything, including the heater controls. After some cursing and head banging I realised it should be lengthened and then everything started to come together.

The end result is a much improved gear shift, mainly after much lubrication of all the shifter pivot points and the cable (prior to install), so worth the skinned knuckles!

Also fixed the the water leak, which turned out not to be the heater or blanking plate on the passenger side, but poor sealant on the A post/bulkhead/inner wing joint on the drivers side. With the water tracking under the carpet into the passenger footwell.



Chris Bond

Good result Chris! :o)
Rob Bell

Hi Rob,

Sent you some photos for the website - not sure if they are much use but feel free to use them if you think they are any use.

One more thing I spotted when I was under there was the the sump to gear box flange was cracked - most likely over tightened by garage!

Question is should I be concerned - it doesn't look very structural to me but would appreciate your thoughts.

Chris Bond

It doesn't seem to be causing any leakage, so perhaps something to keep an eye on? Not seen this before personally. I wonder if anyone else here has any thoughts?

Unfortuantely, you can't really get the casing on its own - and actually, you wouldn't really want to either, as it would take time and money to build up a new gearbox.

The good news is that gearboxes are going for silly cheap money second hand, so if the 'box did need changing, a replacement need not cost the earth. Might even be worth looking out for a bargain on ebay now, if you have somewhere to store it?
Rob Bell

This thread was discussed between 24/05/2010 and 14/06/2010

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