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MG MGF Technical - Hydragas low loss connector

Every time I need to pump the hydra system in my F -twice every year- find the connection to be quite difficult. I believe to have red about some kind of low loss connector which simplifies the procedure. Do any of you people know of any possible company that make a device like that, sell in the net and deliver overseas?
Best wishes for the New Year. Mike
JM Vega-P.

Mike, one of the companies that make the hydragas pumps is Liquid Levers and you can buy spare parts from them. The connector that you want is shown on this link. However, be warned they are not cheap - http://www.liquid-levers.com/shop/section/8/1/spare-parts

I never use the "low loss" part of the connector. I usually just connect it loosely to the valve and pump some fluid through the tube until all of the bubbles are out of it (some fluid will leak onto the floor) then I tighten the connector to the valve. I also sometimes find it difficult to connect the pump to the system - the connector has to be at right angles to the valve. If it's slightly out then the tread doesn't seem to catch. If you move the connector about on the valve you can feel when it is sitting properly.
David Clelland

Thank you very much David. And Happy New Year! Same happens to me as I also find difficult to get the correct angle to connect to the F valves -truck valve extension in my pump-. IŽll get in contact with Liquid Levers to try to get their connector. I am certain it would for sure be better than mine. Best Mike

JM Vega-P.

Hi all,

Trying to park in my mum's drive this xmas I noticed that my underside scraped on the drive. My suspension seems to have been lowered on all 4 wheels when it was serviced/new engine in 2009. The gap from tyres to wheel arches is around 1.5" to 2". Is that too low? Or is it OK and that I need to be careful going over road humps (and my mums front drive!

Thanks guys/gals
JANINE ELLIOT

Janine - the car gets lower as the temperature drops - assuming that you have an *F* and not a *TF*,
Ted Newman

Hi Ted, thanks for this. Checked the measurements on my car; when they refer to 'wheel arch', if they mean the plastic surround that is above the wheels underneath the car (ie not the metal arches of the body work of the car (excuse my ignorance), then I've measured the rear at 360mm to the centre of the wheel. From the metal wheel arch on the bodywork to centre of wheel it is 300mm. I see that the height reduces 0.4mm per degree C, so as it is 0 degrees C the "ideal minimum" ride would be 352mm (assumes 358mm at 17 degree C). Am I talking gobbledegoop?

Thanks
JANINE ELLIOT

Janine,

The correct ride height for a standard MGF is 368mm +/- 10mm measured vertically from the centre of the front wheel to the underside of the wheelarch at 17°C. I've often wondered whether it should be the plastic cover on the lip or the metal as I've never seen this specified. However, I always measure to the metal of the wheelarch. Mind you the measurement is so rough anyway so I don't suppose it makes much difference. The allowance that you have to make for a drop or rise in temperature is 0.6mm per degree C. So if your measuring you car on a level surface at 0°C it should be 357.8mm +/- 10mm.

Normally the rear measurement is less than the front measurement because of the shape of the wheelarch. So if your's is 60mm higher then something is not right. It might just be that the car is not sitting on level ground. You should only measure the two front wheels since the system is connected front and back on both sides of the car and therefore there is no need to measure the rear - it should take care of itself.

The above advice is for a standard MGF. If your car has been lowered using shorter pins or has had a "4 nipple job" then it will be different.
David Clelland

Mike, I ordered mine from Prosol UK.
Delivered here to Australia no problems!

http://www.prosol.co.uk/prosol_fset.php?bpage=/low_loss_connector_P418.php
Eric Martin

This thread was discussed between 31/12/2009 and 03/01/2010

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