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MG MGF Technical - More idiotic queries.

Well, I got the workshop manual (genuine - really thick), and perused it throughout.
But, I cannot see how to get access to the engine.
Someone put me out of my misery, and explain what simple thing I have missed.

Passed the MOT today, just a new tyre needed, and an advisory about an oil leak. It looks like the oil is coming from the top half of the engine at the back - close to the bonnet release catch - possibly a camshaft seal?
Power steering - which fuse is it?
There are 2 40A fuses, both seem in good condition, do you have to unscrew the fuseholders to clean the contacts? The steering does seem rather stiff considering it is meant to be powered, so how can I check it is working?
Clutch cable in bell housing - how to clean the arm? Underneath after jacking it up, or access from the top?

Thanks
Alan.
A Lee

There is a panel under the rear of the hood which needs to be removed, unclip the back of the hood and hinge this forward...

Dave
Dave Andrews

>so how can I check it is working?
Compare turning the wheel left and right with the car stationary and the engine running, it should feel the same resistance both directions

now do the same with the engine stopped. It should now feel much heavier

If it passes both of these, then jack the front of the car up from a central jacking point and start the engine. The wheels should not move.
Will Munns

Oh, and a point of order. This website includes an archive search function - it is largely rubbish, but almost totally useless unless people chose good thread names.

There is a mountain of info in the archive if you are prepared for the hunt (take an overnight bag)
Will Munns

Silly question - are you sure that your car has power steering?
Ted Newman

Not a silly question from Ted, many early MGFs were not fitted with power steering, so Alan's '96 car may be one.

The clutch is hydraulic, with a slave cylinder in the engine bay operating the release arm. When the clutch is pressed the slave cylinder pushes the release arm, which turns the shaft and this operates the clutch mechanism deep in the bellhousing. The weakness of the process is the shaft seizing in the bellhousing, and the difficulty is that there is no provision for lubrication. Best practice is to (from above) drip engine oil or gearbox oil down the shaft where it disappears into the bellhousing, operating the clutch a few times between each drip. Making this a regular service item is highly recommended, as the procedure for replacing the shaft requires removal of the gearbox, and if you check your workshop manual you'll find a fair proportion of the thickness is for that procedure...

Oil leaks from that area can be the camshaft oil seals, but another common leak is from the cam cover. If the cam cover has been removed & re-fitted at any point, it's very easy to over-torque the bolts and rip the thread out. Just one stripped thread is enough to start a leak, so check all the bolts are correctly torqued.
bandit

It may be besr to obtain new cam cover and camshaft seals so as to have a one shot visit to rectify wherever the leak is coming from.
DO NOT OVERTORQUE the bolts to obtain a better seal as this will quickly strip the threads in aluminium. If it leaks, then change the seal.
Geoff F.
Geoff Farthing

Thanks for all the comments, I'm taking it to get the suspension pumped up tomorrow, then, if dry, I'll have a good look at it, firstly to see where exactly the oil leak is coming from (definitely top/rear of engine,) then to see if there is power steering.
Thanks
Alan.
A Lee

How low is the car currently? If the pump-up raises the car more than 20mm or so it would a wise investment to have a 4 wheel alignment check done afterwards*, as the geometry changes relative to ride height. Common scenario of previous owner noticing uneven tyre wear, tyre shop suggesting having alignment adjusted, but actually all that was wrong was the error in ride height. Very few tyre shops apply any lateral thinking when they have expensive laser alignment rigs on lease ;o)

* if possible find somewhere that charges individually for check, adjustment1, adjustment2 etc, as the pump up could feasibly put the car back to 'perfect' geometry and there's no point paying for adjustments unless they're actually required.

bandit

This thread was discussed between 14/10/2008 and 17/10/2008

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