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MG MGF Technical - Near side front top ball joint replacement

My pride and joy has sadly failed the MoT on its near side front, top ball joint!! I have got a replacement ball joint but I have never replaced one before and would appreciate it if someone could provide some instructions and tools I may need?

Thanks.
R Longmore

You could try http://www.mgfcar.de , I'm sure dieters site will have what you want, otherwise try the www.sfforever.com site, Andy's car I know has a complete strip down of these bits.
Mike
Mike (Mersea Office)

You'll need a ball joint splitter and a very large socket!!! The replacement is pretty simple, although Andy and I did have some 'fun and games' attempting to the remove the one from his lower wishbone...
Rob Bell

>I did have some 'fun and games' attempting to the remove the one from his lower wishbone..

LOL, it's most important to complete removing the nut at first _before_ using the ball joint splitter.
If you don't you will get this 'fun' with turning off the nut from a loose free rotating joint. ;)

http://www.mgfcar.de/ball_joint/index.htm
Is all I have. The guys used a big hammer to the side of the hub (location joint) instead of a ball joint splitter.

However the change can be done in two options.
1- change complete lower arm including the worn ball joint.
(needs for hydragaspump and lowering the front subframe.
2- drill out the three rivets and swap in a new (like shown on site)

In any way you need to have a 4-wheel alignment of the tracking after the replacement.
Dieter K.

>> LOL, it's most important to complete removing the nut at first _before_ using the ball joint splitter. <<

Probably better not to use a stretch of motorway armco as a ball joint splitter either Dieter! LOL

[Full story on Andy's website for those not in the 'know': http://www.sfforever.co.uk/ ]
Rob Bell

Thanks for all your help, I have now fitted the new ball joint after much cursing of MGR for their crap parts!!

Why did the person who designed the ball joint make the area where the spanner gets a purchase so miniscule? On such a large diameter thread which was stuffed full of thread lock I would say you want a good chunk of hexagon for the socket to bite too!

Anyway I took it back for the MoT re-test and i'm sorry to say it failed again only this time the new tester noticed the brake pipes by the near-side rear wheel are corroded!!!! Sodding crap rover parts! If the pipes were fairly easy to replace then I wouldn't be so hacked off, but because the car appears to have been built around the brake pipes why didn't MGR ensure that they were built good enough to last?

I love my MGF but if only they were built to last like BMW's!
R Longmore

>>>>Sodding crap rover parts!
===sounds like you might be happier with a Beemer then. What year is your F ? How many thousand miles has it done on salted roads?
BTW, the ball-joint design has it's parentage in about 1958 (Mini) and it's brotherhood in 1980 (Metro) so I hardly think anyone at the current MG Rover design office can be blamed, but if a good curse maks you feel better then be our guest :-)
David S

Don't get confused her guys, Ross is referring to the TOP ball joint, this does not require drilling out any rivets or use of the hydrogas pump. It is quite easy to remove if the correct sized socket is used. As a safety item it has to be thread locked and torqued up correctly.Half hour job onlyand parts are 'cheap as chips'.
Both rear brake pipes are prone to corrosion (if not checked and waxed at the service intervals) and should be replaced as a pair, awkward job if you haven't a ramp. To prevent it happening again use copper pipe.
mike

>Ross is referring to the TOP ball joint

Of course !! Apology, me in error again ;)

Just sourced one (QH QSH1060S) @ebay
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4504960707
:)
Dieter K.

This thread was discussed between 24/11/2004 and 27/11/2004

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