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MG MGF Technical - novice mgf owner, please help

Just purchased my first mgf (1999 vvc) after reading various reports have i done the right thing ? All seems fine apart from the blower only blowing hot . What do i need to do to sort out this problem ? i have read a few articles about removing the glove box and checking the pipes . Also i am concerned about the cooling system ( as i suspect everyone is ) but how do i know if all is ok ...? any suggestions to a novice mgf owner ... an idiots guide might be helpful
c hall

Unfortunately for all of us, there is no such thing as an idiot's guide. Idiots and Fs are best kept well separated. If you are flummoxed with what you find, the best answer is to pay somebody who understands Fs - not necessarily your nearest or previously trusted garage.
The MGCC MGF register may have a local branch of very helpful people or an MGOC group locally whose meets you can attend for free - google them.
Without seeing the car first hand; your hot-all-the-time-fan could be caused by the mechanism behind the temperature dial having broken. It can be fixed and is not serious. Without looking at the cooling system (and even then) it is difficult to say whether your 'concern' is justified - it could be fine, or not. There are many things - as with any car - that bear on the condition of the cooling system.
In both of these matters a good F mechanic examining the car can quickly put your mind at rest. They tend to want to be paid for their expertise - that is life.
Charless

Welcome... If I didn't already have one or two, I'd buy an F now - prices are ridiculously low, meaning the grin-per-buck is at an all-time high.

The most common problem with heater controls is the plastic temperature control knob turning without turning the shaft it fits over, due to the plastic sleeve splitting. Pull it sharply and it will slide off, then try turning the shaft with pliers. Or pull one of the others and see if that works. Possible the previous owner set it to hot using pliers, adopting the philosophy of 'if it starts blowing cold, that means coolant has escaped'. Sadly they're no longer available from MGR but there's a bouyant trade in them on eBay. Also found on the early Rover 200.

If you've not already, consult Rob Bell's bible on the MGF - http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/
bandit

Welcome...

I agree with bandit - how to diagnose a bust knob problem. I had similar issues with my car a year ago, except stuck on cold AND fan was stuck on 1. Replacement knobs from a breaker fixed the problems for me.

This forum will give you decent help and advice with most things, but Charless is quite right to suggest you have servicing and repair tasks performed by a reputable MGF mechanic. This applies especially where coolant and cambelts are involved else terminal damage to the engine can result. Until you acquire "the knowledge" yourself, do locate a good MGF mechanic/garage in your area and have them give the car a once over, if only for peace of mind at this early stage of your ownership.

I hope you get the heater control problem solved and can then enjoy your car. Whilst there's a bit of the nice weather left you should get some top down driving fun! You ask if you've done the right thing? Provided the car is in good order, that's a yes - my wife and and I look forward to our MGF trips at the weekends and have never been let down. I drive a BMW diesel for business but if the weather's good, often take the MGF instead. It's great little car with nice handling, decent performance and on a sunny day with the top down, is a real pleasure to drive. We get light flashes and hand waves from other MGF's on the road - owning this car has a "club" feel to it.

Do keep an eye on coolant and oil levels. Early MGF's had a reputation for HGF (Head Gasket Failure) which is often attributed to defects in the coolant's distribution. It's really important to check that sufficient coolant exists and is not contaminated (with oil or metal). Oil in the water will show up as a creamy deposit, like yellow yoghurt. Do not run the car if you find any!

I suggest you perform a wellbeing check before every start (weekly at the very least). Get the car on a level surface and lift the boot, then the black plastic inspection flap on the right of the engine guard grille. Unscrew the water bottle cap and peer inside. See a plastic post with two steps on it - the coolant should be just over the top one. After screwing down the cap, you may as well check the oil level - the dipstick is adjacent to the water bottle. Now you have two points of reference to the essential fluids - any variance from week to week indicates there's somthing amiss (or you are doing a massive mileage!).
Do close the inspection flap before you shut the boot lid!

Oh, by the way, get a new bottle cap every year, they cost less than a fiver (from Halfords or any motor factor). With age, they fail to retain the correct pressure.

Jeff
J Lennon

Great , thank you Jeff and thank you bandit . i might just be over worrying . The car was bought from a couple who have said that the head gasket and cambelt were done about 18 months ago but having checked throught the service history i cant find any conformation of this anywhere .It does seem to be in very good condition and is great to drive . This weekend will be "my time" with her and will check her out good and proper ! already checked the levels of the oil and the water and they seem fine .I get a sneaky suspision that the coolant isnt a 50 - 50 mix and will need to check this out ... is there a product on the market that is designed to do this rather than drain the system or is it best to start from scratch ?
c hall

I see Halfords do testers for a couple of quid.

Be aware that OAT type anti freeze is recommended for MGF's. You must not mix OAT with other types of anti-freeze - such a mixture will rot you internals. I do not know if OAT mixture will measure properly on the cheapo types of tester. Perhaps someone else will come along to confirm this!

The existing mixture must have been changed during the HG change of 18 months or so back. Some say OAT lasts 4 years, but I'd change it every two. So.. winter approaches, you are not sure of the mixture's strength or type - I'd get it flushed out and changed now for 50/50 using OAT. Do get this done properly as failure to adhere to the proper procedure can leave air in the system. Air in the system can lead to Head Gasket Failure. As Charless has said earlier, make sure you find a reputable MGF mechanic to help you - otherwise read the various DIY notes in the forum and refer to Rob Bell's site http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/


Jeff


J Lennon

ok Jeff , not wanting to sound a plonker but whats the difference between OAT and normal and how do i tell which one ive got ??
c hall

Hopefully others will comment on their preferred strengths and brand as it's best you don't rely on my opinion alone. Here's goes though with my thoughts/experience:-

OAT (organic acid technology) fluid is pink or orange in colour (depending on manufacturer). Standard stuff is green but you shouldn't use it. The difference is chemical content and their suitability for predominantly alloy engines (like the K series).

To avoid adverse chemical reaction you should stick to one brand. As you've no clue what's in there, I think it's best you flush and replace so you do know and can have confidence in the mixture strength. Water is the best coolant, but freezes readily and contains no corrosion inhibitors. Water Wetter can be added which is a heat transfer agent - claiming to lower engine temperatures by up to 15 degrees C. I've never tried it and don't know how it reacts to antifreeze. Worth looking into though. Pure antifreeze doesn't transfer heat as well as water, thus any mixture is a compromise.

IMHO 50/50 is as far as you should go. Some say 30af/70water is the weakest solution that's safe in the UK. Suppose it depends how harsh the winter is and how far north you expect the car to travel. Mind you, we get some cold snaps to -10c in Bournemouth (where I live). I an using a 40-60 mix from Unipart OAT and got my MGF expert to do the job 'cos I wasn't confident about getting the air out. However confidence is now high and I'll change it myself when I change the underbody pipes for stainless steel types - my next DIY job!

I repeat the warning about getting the flush/refill procedure correct re avoidance of air pockets!

You can get OAT from Xpart dealers, Texaco and Halfords. Be very sure it's OAT.
I've not used it, but MGOC Accessories and Sussex Classiccars both sell "4Life" brand ready mixed in 5ltr cartons for £13. Both outfits will give you advice over the telephone as to suitability for your car. Whatever you or your mechanic decide to fill up with, identify the brand used on a label near the filler cap - it might not be you who needs to know in the future!

There's more stuff to read at http://www.mgfcar.de/bleed/


Jeff
J Lennon

Once again , thank you Jeff , you've been most helpful. Thinking about the colour of the coolant has set my mind a bit easier , its an light orangey colour which as you have said, seems to be correct but i will find a mg mechanic and ask him to go over all these points . On the face of it , i think i have bought a well looked after mgf but i will take nothing for granted . Cheers Jeff.
c hall

This thread was discussed between 20/09/2009 and 22/09/2009

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