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MG MGF Technical - Socket sizes and other tools?

Hi folks,

Well, the new shocks and tie-bar bushes arrive tomorrow morning (from MGFC - many thanks Bill) and I'm planning to do the work on Sunday.

But... what socket sizes do I need for the various nuts for the shockers? It doesn't tell you that in the workshop cd does it? or at least I can't see anything that does... I've also seen instructions on a lot of sites (robs, tonys etc) but I couldn't see any "tools needed" sections...

I know for the tie-bar I'm going to need:
- 18mm deep socket
- 13mm "deep offset" ring spanner

I'm borrowing an oil strap wrench for the shockers... anything else I'll need?... got a near-full socket set (altho there's some deeps that I need) and a torque wrench for when I'm putting it back together.

Cheers

Chris.

ps. I also have numbers of local garages for when I really balls this up and also of taxi firms when I need to get a cab to work on monday :-)
Chris Tromans

Hi Chris,

The standard shocks are a doddle to remove - the dust covers are locked to the shafts, so gripping the dust cover will stop the shaft turning as you undo the retaining nut. You'll need a 15mm socket & spanner for the lower mounting. Maybe have a 16mm handy too, memory is a bit foggy now.

Use fresh locking compound on the tie-bar to hub bolt, I used old stuff that had passed its best and came undone very quickly - very alarming!

You might need an allen key set, depends on which shocks you're fitting - Gaz? If Gaz, don't be tempted to fit them with the adjuster facing under the car (for notionally easier access) because there's a bolt that will shear them off when the car is back on the ground...

Bear in mind the torques need to be set with the car on the ground, which might be troublesome. Best to have the alignment set after you're finished, so I blagged a few minutes with the car up on a lift to do the final torque settings.
Mike Hankin

17mm and 13mm for the lower shocker fixture.
http://www.mgfcar.de/nipple/damper_unbolt_DSC05051.JPG

Not sure about the upper nut size.

Bear in mind not to finally tighten the lower until the wheels are back on the road. This is to prevent the dampers from side torque due to movement (rotate for same degrees) of the lower fixture under load from the car.
Dieter

Mike,

Cheers for you points. They are the Gaz ones yes :-)

What's "locking compound"?

Chris
Chris Tromans

Threadlock or any other brand of compound that gunks up the thread to stop things coming undone. Also, you'll find it easier to undo the tie-bar to subframe bolt (in behind the rubber access grommet) to release the tie bar, if you follow the method in the manual I predict much more cursing...
Mike Hankin

Tim Woolcott's instructions on tie-bar bush replacement here: http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/suspension/suspension_images/pdf%20files/In_the_bushes.pdf
Rob Bell

Cheers Rob... already got that page on my favourites ready for the weekend :-)

Chris
Chris Tromans

In fact... just clicked on it and it can't be found... get a 404
Chris Tromans

needs reload ??
try the html
http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/suspension/suspension_images/upgrading_bushes.htm
Dieter

On this same topic, anyone know the size of the big nut on the rear drive shaft. I've got a feeling there is a slight "click" on drive reversal!
Jerry Herbert

Jerry, don't know the size of that one but mine 'relaxed' recently on a trip through the Pyrenees. Spline type clicking when on/off throttle. Workshop tightened it for me but a bit too late. Just had bearing and flange replaced at cost of £193.

Check yours asap!
John Ponting

Gulp!
I saw your post which made me think about drive shaft nuts. It has stayed the same level of noise since owning the car, last Nov, so I'm hopeful of tracking the noise down. I have not given it full welly yet.
I think it may be 50mm?
(Welsh Cafe Society member)
Jerry Herbert

Ugh! Sorry Chris - not sure what has happened to that - I'll sort it out when I get home... not sure how I am going to get home just now (no transport at all in London as I speak) - but I guess I'm one of the lucky ones.
Rob Bell

Rob,

Certainly don't put this anywhere near the highest of priorities right at this time... just work out how to get yourself home...

I'm pretty sure I have enough instructions and pictures now to do the job fairly easily so no worries at all..

Regards

Chris
Chris Tromans

Fixed it this morning Chris, whilst checking the transport situation before coming to work! LOL

All sorted - hope that Tim's instructions help :o)
Rob Bell

Many thanks Rob... you're a star...

Right - I've got all the tools now...

Do I need to be using any grease or anything when I'm putting things back together? I've got the threadlock for the tie-bar bolts...

Chris
Chris Tromans

Just for the record, socket for drive shaft spline nut is 32mm. Got 2 nuts and will try to find the click on drive reversal on Monday.
Jerry Herbert

Chris, your tie-bar bushes should have come with a small sachet of copper grease, which is probably enough for the smaller bushes but liberal application recommended so you might want to have another supply available. PlusGas or other penetrating fluid on the rust threads might save a couple of drips of sweat but apart from that no, you're all set to go.
Mike Hankin

More useless information!! Especially for John P.
The click on drive reversal was the n/s driveshaft nut.
Torqued it up enough to give a fresh stake land. Just hoping it will all stay together now! It has not got any worse since I got the car last Nov, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed, and will check it from time to time, even if it doesn't become obvious before then!
Jerry Herbert

This thread was discussed between 06/07/2005 and 11/07/2005

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