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MG MGF Technical - Timing Belt Manual Tensioner Adjustment

Hi all,

I am in the process of replacing the timing belt in a MGF 97 MPI 1.8 with manual tensioner and have searched the forums and workshop manuals about the correct way of setting the timing belt tension but have not found a very clear cut method.

So, does anyone know a step by step, tried and tested, way to adjust the timing belt to the correct tension?

I have already set it by pushing on the tensioner and locking the small bolt and the the large retainging bolt and "guessing" the tension.

cheers,
Branko
Branko

hi Branko, I thought only the VVC was manual and yours is an automatic?
Andrew Regens

Hi Andrew,
The VVC's are manual but some of the MPI's are auto as well as manual.
Anyway, I have now completed the job. I re-adjusted it again just to make sure and I am happy that I have set it correctly by "feel". I used a piece of wire (coat hanger) and made a hook at the end. I kept tension on the tensioner backplate whilst I tightend the belt.
The spring on the post is useless as it does not have enough tension to pull up the tensioner back plate at all.

cheers,
Branko
Branko

Pre-2000 K-series had manual tensioners.

I thought I had something on this on my website, as I've been through this a few times with Tim. Keep the tension on the cambelt on the runs up to the cam pulleys from the crank pulley, and the same goes for the belt between the pulleys, Then it comes around to setting the tensioner - which if you've got the little spring wotsit makes life a little easier - but it's no big deal.

A nice video on setting the timing on an auto-tensioner car can be found here: http://mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/engines/video/cambelt.wmv
Largely the same process as the manual version :o)

Rob Bell

Setting the manual tensioner is pretty straight forward (after doing a couple of dozen times!).

As Rob say, you need to keep the tension on the drive side (on the bulkhead side). It is somewhat easier to do with the crank pulley off that way you can very clearly see TDC and wedge a spanner to keep the belt on the crank sprocket when re-fitting the belt.

I work on the basis that you loop the belt from crank to exhaust pulley and then to the inlet pulley, then finally get it over the tensioner. A little trick is to only insert the big tensioner bolt a couple of turns. This way you can angle the tensioner to ease the belt over it (if you see what I mean!).Then do up the bolts. (BTW I put a little bit of thread lock on the M8 adjustment bolt)

Once you have the belt on check that the crank is still at TDC (it can move!).

To set the tension I use a LONG screwdriver and from the wheelarch I push up the brass coloured lug on the tensioner. It's a bit of trial and error to start off with but you're aiming to ensure that the tension of the belt between the two cam pulleys is sufficient to prevent the belt touching the plastic below the belt when you push with your thumb. You can also try twisting the belt and it should turn more than 45 degrees. Also check that there is tension on the drive side(between the exhaust and crank pulleys).

When all done to a sanity check and check all of the bolts.

Job done.
Tim

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sam

on a manualy tensioned belt you must be able to turn the belt through 90 degrees on the run between the r/h cam pully and the bottem pully with the engine cold. the small spring on the adjuster plate gives the right amount of tension.
tim
Tim Dalton

This thread was discussed between 04/07/2009 and 08/08/2009

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