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MG TD TF 1500 - 3 bow frame welded?

As one of my AZ winter projects I brought down the 3 bow top frame to rebuild. Now I have found that the metal arched bows are attached to the frame with what looks like countersunk metal sheet screws in two places on both sides in addition it looks like they were tack welded one spot on each side between the holes for the sheet metal screws. Three of the side welds have fractured along with the screws coming loose. My question! We're the welds from the factory or was this an attempt by a PO to fix arched bow looseness?
Many thanks, Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to all!
Best regards
Rod Murray 54 TF
Rodney G Murray

pictures?
MG LaVerne

I think that there are both welds and screws at various points. If I remember correctly I had the same problem and simply repaired the welds and welded up the screw holes and redrilled them. The screws are just sheet metal screws. I'd have to look to be sure but the car is put up right now until better weather.

Mark
Mark Strang

Rod,

Mark is correct,screws and welded bows definately on TFs and I guess TDs.

One 'trick' I have done is to put screws back which are slightly longer,
so they protrude through to the top side of the bow (you need to drill
a small hole). Then,I weld the end of the screw to the hood bow. File flush.

Over 100 years,I am sure they will never work loose and yet they look
exactly original!!

Check also for loose rivets on the hood frame,replace if necessary.

Cheers.
Rob Grantham
TF3719("Aramis"),TF9177("Athos").
R GRANTHAM

The pic below is of my original & recently restored 2 bow TD frame. All of the connections were & are peened over rivets. The only screws are the small coarse threaded pair on each side used to secure the buffer rubbers. One of these screws can be seen in the bottom RH corner of the pic. The painted wingnuts will be replaced with the correct chrome ones on installation. Cheers
Peter TD 5801

P Hehir

Here is a picture of the third bow in our TD. I suspect (but would have a hard time proving) that the top bows were assembled in some kind of a jig with the cross bows clamped in place and a tack weld put on each junction, the drilled and the screws put into place. In the process of taking the picture, I found that the weld on the second bow was fractured and the screw had loosened. The screw in that position is a 6X32 American machine screw and as I remember (as best as I can to 1980, when I restored the car) that the hole was stripped out and I drilled it out and put in some kind of an insert. Cheers - Dave

DW DuBois

It seems the 2 bow TD & the 3 bow were constructed using different methods, with the TF very similar to the 3 bow TD. The only other screws on mine, apart from the tiny buffers mentioned above & the wood screws securing the frame to the timber front rail, are shown below. These 4 machine screws (2 on each bow) secured the 50 mm wide canvas strip that protected the hood material from rubbing against the top of the bows. I've never seen this on any TD here, restored or otherwise, but as I've owned my early TD since 1969 & the bows were in the condition you see in the pics below, I believe the frame, these screws & the canvas strips are original. The pics were taken while wire brushing off the surface rust. To answer Rod's question I also believe the welds are from the factory. Cheers
Peter TD 5801

P Hehir

Pic 2

P Hehir

Any chance of a PIC showing the stepped rubber buffers? I have new ones but am unsure of where they fit.

Jan T
J Targosz

This is all I've got Jan that shows the location in any sort of detail. I can't supply a pic as I've yet to fit my rubbers, which I bought from Moss about three years ago, so I'm unsure as to their suitability. Dave Braun also has some pics showing the same location. The 2 countersunk holes should be in the side of your frame. Cheers
Peter TD 5801

P Hehir

My 3 bow has 3 of its 6 bow ends in need of fixing for loose screws and broken welds. I like Rob's suggestion of drilling through to the other side, putting a longer screw in that protrudes through the other side then welding then filing.... I got all the hardware to do this as well as a rivet that will replace the nut & bolt that a PO used!. ACE hardware has rivets that are two piece, one half has an internal threaded socket and the other is a threaded "male" end. The rivet fits perfectly with a brass washer in between. I'll put some "red" locktite" on the threads for the rivet and use some JB Weld to fill the Philips screw slots on each of the rivet heads.... When painted it will be hard to tell the difference on the rivets. I have to say that I just love working on this old beauty:)
Best regards and seasons greetings
Rod 54 TF
Rodney G Murray

This thread was discussed between 24/12/2015 and 25/12/2015

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