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MG TD TF 1500 - 51 TD engine rebuild update

Thanks to a friend who came around and helped me today, we made major progress on the engine.
Firstly we identified the biggest single issue: the condenser wasn't grounding well enough. I had not done the modification to the plate of adding a hole and tapping it to hold the condenser, I had just fitted it under the old bracket (where originally they were soldered in place). We removed the plate and drilled and tapped a hole to lock the condenser to the plate, and reinstalled it. Immediately, she ran much smoother.
Then we looked at the carbs and determined that the pistons were not dropping fast enough nor were they loose enough; it took some finger pressure to raise the pistons. That was solved by removing some of the damper oil and then carefully resetting the damper bowls so that the pistons remained easy to move, before tightening down.
Lastly, we reset the valves and at least two were too loose, and between these three fixes, the engine is now running much more smoothly (and at a much higher idle). I lowered the idle and the engine is now running pretty nicely!
I still think we have an issue with the plug wires on #2 and #3, I am going to tin and solder the ends where they screw into the distributor cap. When I take the wires off and hold them to the plugs, #1 and # have great spark, 2 and 3 much less.
But HUGE progress overall, I now have an engine that doesn't sound quite perfect yet, but starts easily and idles well. I think getting those last two plug wires perfect will get us to the last step!
Next step - (after the wires) resyncing the carbs and adjusting the idle some more...
Geoffrey M Baker

I have a real fondness for the original-style distributor caps, with screw-in terminals (not incorrect caps with screw-in wires).

If you are careful about installing the original-style caps and wires, there is no need to tin anything.

Tom Lange
MGT Repair
t lange

I also installed new needles. Turns out they were lean needles... The car came from CO originally which explains the lean... However my dad then ran the car at sea level for the next twenty years with lean needles...
Geoffrey M Baker

I prefer the pre-tinned copper stranded wire (like Packard 440)for use in either the "sidewinder" or the other type of screw in distributor cap. Pre tinned, like the regular wiring harness should be. It better resists oxidation.
D mckellar

Removing oil from the carbs will not make them go up or down any faster. Only changing the oil viscosity will do that. The oil level should be 3/8" from the top of the reservoir tube. The pistons are supposed to require firm finger pressure to raise. if they are easy to raise, you might suffer leaning out on initial acceleration. Every engine is different, but most seem to respond well to 20W oil.
Steve Simmons

I've been using a bottle of oil that came with the car, probably from Moss. It is (I think) Perkins damper oil intended for use in the dashpot. I've always assumed it would be the right weight.
It's running pretty nicely right now! I just want to resync the carbs and I think I'm done with fuel issues. Still intend to solder/tin the ends of the spark plug wires where they screw into the distributor cap as I think that will help get more even sparking.
Geoffrey M Baker

Soldered the distributor cap ends... Definite improvement 😊 I think it is about time to take her off the jacks and out for a spin! But first I need to put the bonnet back on and finish the carpeting.
Geoffrey M Baker

The day she goes for a spin should be an exciting day. My experience says take some tools in the toolbox.

Erick
1952 MG TDC
2008 BMW 328i, the last of the inline
EB Blackwelder

Unfortunately, I've been sick the past few days and haven't spent any time on the car. It may not see movement until late February, at this rate. I will definitely take some tools!
Geoffrey M Baker

This thread was discussed between 25/01/2016 and 06/02/2016

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