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MG TD TF 1500 - 51TD Gas tank decision

I'm slowly coming to the conclusion that I have no choice but to have my tank cut open and the interior sandblasted. The sealing material that was used to "rehab" the tank by my dad is slowly disintegrating, but it comes off in large sheets that will never make it through the baffles. Short of six months of agitation with metal parts, I don't think it will break up - and long before it breaks up I suspect large sections of the tank will have holes from the abrasives! Tests using acetone, methyl paint stripper have not dissolved this stuff...
Soooo... I've talked with a local radiator shop who is willing to cut it open, clean it and reweld. They can dip it in zinc phosphate treatment.

Q #1 Should I remove the gas cap to make sure it isn't eaten away in the acid bath they will use? And if so, I guess I must drill out that pin?

#2 I need to replace all my gaskets and washers etc. I found Moss part numbers for the gas tank cap gasket, the round sender gasket, but not for the rectangular gasket that seals the inside of the sender unit. Can anybody point me to the right part number for that?

#3 The brass screen that is soldered to the fuel line connector is rotten - broken and bashed (by floating sealing material no doubt). The filter screen is listed as N/A on Moss, can anyone point me to a suitable replacement?
Geoffrey M Baker

Remove the cap and release trigger. You may be able to carefully tap the rivet out and re-use it. Get the sender gasket kit from Abingdon Spares, it includes the round, square, and terminal sealing gaskets. Don't know about the filter screen. George
George Butz

Geoffrey - In addition to the gaskets that George specifies, you will also need two fiber washer for the drain plug and the outlet union. Unless you can find a source for the filter screen material to make your own, you will need to order a new outlet union with the filter screen already attached. Cheers - Dave
D W DuBois

And Moss sells a synthetic rubber sending unit gasket set, round 6 hole one and the rectangular cover one under part number 293-401. Just fitted them to my Morris Minor, highly recommended.
John Quilter (TD8986)

Geoffery,

Doug Pelton @ From The Frame Up has all the parts you will need. I purchased all items I needed.
Bob Wrenn

Don't drill the pins. You should be able to bend the flared ends down with some pliers and remove them and most likely reuse them. The Frame Up is in Mesa, AZ and should have everything you need.
MG LaVerne

I was able to tap both pins out without damage.
I've also bought some brass screen material on ebay and should be able to repair the filter.
Thanks for the info... Moss likes to hide some of its products!
Geoffrey M Baker

I should add as a DYI note: easiest way to remove the pins is to take a drift or punch with a very fine end (I used a nail set with an end about 1/32", used for driving small finish nails) and then hit quite hard, once. By using a small ended punch the flared brass just bent around enough to exit the hole without jamming up on the punch. A larger end on the punch might have flattened the brass and made removal impossible.
Very easy to do.
Geoffrey M Baker

This thread was discussed between 02/12/2014 and 03/12/2014

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