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MG TD TF 1500 - ANG gasket set

Jumped in an purchased an ANG gasket set for the sump and front timing cover some time ago, just about ready to do the job when I noticed the cork strip that sits in the rear main to seal the sump looks too long, so I ask has anyone here used this gasket set, does the cork strip have to be trimmed, alternatively does anyone have a cork strip they could measure for me, I don't want to start trimming in case I mess it up.

Thanks

George
G Mills

George,
On the occasions I have fitted this cork gasket to the rear of the sump. I have never had to cut or trim this cork piece. The sump will crush into the cork to make it leak-proof. But do follow the instructions of the WSM and tuck the little tabs of the side pieces under the cork step to correctly seal the corners. I also use Hylomar blue sparingly to help with that.

Rod
R D Jones

Thanks Rod,
After posting, I rang Rob Grantham here in Perth he has explained it to me as well so now I have an idea of how it all goes together.

Regards
george
G Mills

ANG gasket set, pan bolt holes don't line up, getting refund
G Mills

Hi George,

I gather that on a lot of sump gasket sets, the rear 'cork'strip is too thin and has no steps on the ends. Would suggest that a straight portion of a valve cover cork, off a more 'common car' is around the right thickness ! Cut your own steps with a fine tooth Xacto model makers saw or similiar.

Cheers,

John
J C Mitchell

G/day John,
Yes I think that is true, not enough attention to detail when these gasket sets are made although Bud has advised me of a sump set he uses and the cork is cut correctly.
I had thought of buying a sheet of 6 mm neoprene cork and cutting one out myself but guess what I can't get it in Australia unless I am prepared to buy a few hundred dollars worth.

regards

george
G Mills

Hi George,

Take your point about sheets of neoprene cork, quantity and cost! Small sheets are available in the UK at autojumbles for a few pounds, but I've no detailed knowledge about available thicknesses etc.

Strips now supplied are often only 4.5mm which I think is too thin, and I'm interested in your 6mm spec thickness, which is the same as an old used cork seal I've kept from the 1970s. Assuming the original spec was Imperial, this would equate to 1/4", which is the same as the 'cork' on a new old stock 'B' series engine rocker gasket I happen to have, also of the correct width.

BMC 'B' series rocker gaskets are commonly available, and will make two T-Type rear seals, using the long sides. You can practice cutting the step on the end pieces!

Interested to know what sump set has the correct thickness seal with steps, unless this is a State secret!

Hope this helps,

John
J C Mitchell

John, Bud put me onto the seal with the stepped ends and correct length I have ordered mine from Abingdon the gasket and the rear seal are PT Number 291-000 and 291-200, double check those part numbers if ordering mate I may have got them the wrong way around.

Regards

George
G Mills

Hi George,

Thanks for info re Abingdon, particularly useful for our US readers! As far as I'm concerned at the moment, I'm happy to make mine from the rocker gasket 'cork', especially since the dimensions seem spot on when compared with my 1970s example.

Thanks for raising this important issue,

Cheers,

John
J C Mitchell

No worries mate glad I could help, thanks to Bud as well for his advice.

Regards

George
G Mills

George, I don't where you got those part numbers from. They are Moss Motors Part Numbers. The Abingdon Spares parts are on their Gaskets page, Page #11. The Oil Pan Set is Item Number 50. That would make it Part # 11-050 in A/S parlance. If you just want the cork rear seal, it's Item #27 (11-027), the gasket is Item #21 (11-021). A/S will cross-reference to Moss numbers if tghat's what you give them. Bud
Bud Krueger

Oh yes should have explained those numbers are part numbers given to me by Abingdon spares here in Australia I automatically thought they would be the same as Abingdon spares in the UK or elsewhere.


Regards

george
G Mills

I have always made up my own rear seals. I use 1/8" cork material cut to width and glued together after forming round the bearing cap so it is the correct shape and stays in place while I am on my back replacing the sump.
I have always made the sump gaskets out of drawing card and only using grease and no gasket goo. I never get a leak from the gasket but a drip from the rear crank seal which is never big enough to worry about. I will do the rear seal sometime if it does get bad.
Ray TF 2884
Ray Lee

Hi Ray,

Interesting comment - I've made many a gasket in my time, (being of a certain age!) but a conversion set includes a lot of other external gaskets, aside from the sump, so in this case I just pay the money!

Presumably the gluing together of two 1/8" strips of cork, ties in with my belief that 1/4" was the original thickness of the seal? I assume you cut the steps making use of the glued joint as your guide?

Cheers,

John
J C Mitchell

Hi John.
you don't have to cut a step, just make one strip longer than the other. Both of them should be long enough to ensure the crush down and make sure the sump gasket is secure under the seal as per WSM.
It does not seem to matter what glue you use, when I have stripped engines down later non have ever parted.
When I bought my TF 40 years ago it was already 20 years old and spares were hard to come by therefore the homemade bits. Then the Scrooge mentality took over.I only ever buy head and manifold gaskets now.

Ray TF 2884
Ray Lee

Hi Ray,

Yes I assumed you did it as you've explained but I didn't put it very well. What I meant to ask was to confirm that the step was exactly 1/8" thick, and you've now made that clear.

Thanks for info, and I think this topic can now be 'put to bed'.

Cheers,

John
J C Mitchell

This thread was discussed between 10/04/2014 and 14/04/2014

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