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MG TD TF 1500 - Anti roll bar from Peter Edney MG
This kit arrived by UPS today, a part of my winters project. Not cheap, but easier for those not technically gifted to the level of welding etc. Quick response, and the parts ssem to be very nicely made. Reinforced A-arms included. Polybushings are waiting on my shelf. Hopefully this will prove to be a genuine bolt on kit for my TF. regards, Jan ![]() |
Jan Emil Kristoffersen |
You're missing four pieces. Two new spring pans like the one one the right and two bar clamps.
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MG LaVerne |
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dN3BdWod1Cs |
MG LaVerne |
Hello Laverne and thank you for commenting on this. I know that I need the bar clamps, but I thought that the reinforced arms were all I needed, not the spring pans? regards, Jan |
Jan Emil Kristoffersen |
Incidentally, I got my kit as well yesterday, after slaughtering an old MGB front axle that needed to go because it blocked a large spot in the garage (and boy was it heavy !). Way behind yours in terms of ready to mount, and certainly cost me a few four letter words (which have more than 4 letters in German..), mostly about hopelessly corroded cotter pins that in the end I had to shear off. But at least the parts collection seems complete, though I´ll have to replace the link arms and rubber bits anyway, but I can try to mount with the long arms first and see if it works ok before throwing them out. And I have yet to loosen the positioning clamps. Not sure about the MGB springs - any experience if it is worth using them instead the T ones ? I do like the color, but the poweder coating is broken in a few places, so that won´t last anyway, I guess. Got me one Girling shock as a spare as well, unfortunately the other one got hung up to the stub axle due to an unmovable bolt. Even the BFH did not help there. In any case, I have some cleaning ahead of me... I visited Peter Edney´s shop last week (he is close to where i live in the UK at the moment) to check if he would do the CWP conversion on my back axle, and I saw a few used sway bars hanging on the wall - might have been the easier option... Peter is asking 700 GB for the work (labour only), so that needs some serious thinking. Since the diff I have and was hoping to use does not fit, I would need a new CWP set plus some small parts in addition. So I´m still shifting that one back and forth between my ears... Best Regards Mike ![]() |
Mike Fritsch |
Does anyone know if the shortened link arm's in the Peter Edney kit are custom or a standard part from something else that can be ordered? |
Rich (TD 3983) Taylor |
Sorry Jan, I don't see the original pans working in this application. |
MG LaVerne |
Laverne, I realize that I need two MGB spring pans and that they come as handed pairs. But can I still use my TF front springs? Regards Jan |
Jan Emil Kristoffersen |
Jan, you can use the OEM t-series springs furtheron with this roll bar conversion but the 550lbs MGB springs will add positive handling on the TD. Ralph TD 19435 |
R.S. Ralph Siebenhaar |
The pans themselves are not handed and one will work on either side of the car Jan. Yes you can use your stock springs without issue. |
MG LaVerne |
Not wanting to hijack the thread: RS when using the MGB springs, do you need to heat them or remove coils? I bought B components from a friend but noted the springs were quite a bit taller than my TD springs. Since I presume they a stiffer I would expect the ride height to have changed if I had installed them. Also anybody, what it the story about using TF rear springs in a TD? I've heard they will lower the chassis. How much and is the rate different on them vs the TD springs?? Thanks Bill Chasser Jr TD4834 |
W. A. Chasser Jr |
The 550# springs are not stock MGB, they are optional rubber bumper performance springs, they lower the front just a bit 3/4". Yes the TF springs lower a TD. Len |
Len Fanelli |
I've posted this before, but it's a useful table of MG coil springs. David ![]() |
David Wardell |
David, thanks a lot for the table. Does that imply that if diameter and length are the same (i.e. TD and MGB), then it´s always the same spec ? Then it would not make a difference where the spring came from, other than maybe it being worn out from age ? Best Regds Mike |
Mike Fritsch |
Mike, I went through this last year as I had some MGB springs and they are of a thicker material than the T series. The chart shows 9/16 for the B and 1/2 inch for the T series, so I kept the ones off the TF and re used them. All came out well. PJ |
Paul S Jennings |
One additional difference between B and T springs. The B spring has a slightly larger circumfrence.
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MG LaVerne |
Mike, I have an MGA CWP kit 4.3:1 Seems to be in great condition. Mail me off list if you are interested. jekatvikenfiberdotno. regards Jan |
Jan Emil Kristoffersen |
Not really visable in the pictures but the T upper mounting cup is a smaller diameter and a snug fit on the smaller T spring. The B locating cup on the left will not fit inside a T spring. If using a B spring, I would recommend that you also use a B locating cup as well.
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MG LaVerne |
Mike You could try talking to Heathrow Transmissions for your diff conversion. I haven't used them but they seem well-established. Tim |
Tim Wilkinson |
I used all of my old TD parts and modified them to work similar to the MGB parts. I also went with Jim Mertz's shortened link method. I took some pains to get the finished running weight on my front end before I drilled the dumb irons since my engine etc are not yet installed. The error that I made is that I just put the additional weight on the frame and drilled the holes on both sides. I stupidly neglected to verify that both sides were evenly spaced on the dumb irons. They were off by about 1/2". It bothered me enough that I welded the holes shut on the drivers side and re-drilled them to match the passenger side. Note that I only welded the trapezoid shaped brace on the top and bottom (the long way). That is the way that the factory did the B arms. I assume it is to keep from weakening the arm by not welding across it. Also, note the reinforcing on the underneath side of the spring pan mimicking the B pan. Kirk ![]() |
Kirk Trigg |
Tim, I have them on the radar screen. Probably need to call them at some point. However, they are quoting 1000 pounds for an MGB V8 tube axle conversion on ebay, which is probably a similar effort, so quite pricey. Kirk, could you post the approximate position of the holes on the dumb irons (from whatever reference point is best) for comparison ? I must admit the shorter links look more elegant and probably make the whole thing a bit stiffer. What´s the source code for the short links (i.e. what car would they come from ?) Best Rgds Mike |
Mike Fritsch |
Hello Kirk, Could you send a picture that shows clearly how you reinforced the spring pans by welding? Regards, Jan |
Jan Emil Kristoffersen |
Mike, The distance that I came up with was 2 7/8" from the outboard end of the dumb iron to the center of the upper hole in the bracket as shown in the attached pic. If my math is correct that would be 7.3025 cm. I'm very curious what distance others have used. I suppose the bracket used could cause the distance to change. Kirk ![]() |
Kirk Trigg |
Second image that shows the distance from the end of the dumb iron to the sway bar is 4 inches. My apologies for the pic being upside down. I don't know how to rotate them from my iphone.
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Kirk Trigg |
That's better
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Ray Lee |
I forgot to say that I think I paid about $50 or $75 bucks for a used 9/16" MGB sway bar and links off of eBay. Jan, Here are a couple of pics of my spring pan. Hope these help. I should say that my car hasn't been on the road since 1972 so I'm not sure how these modifications are going to work. As someone on here is fond of saying, "Your mileage may vary!" Please disregard all the paint that I need to touch up... ![]() |
Kirk Trigg |
Here's another pic.
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Kirk Trigg |
Mike, don't compare the V8 axle mod on the basis of a normal MGB one with the CWP change on the TD/TF one. The V8 does not only have a different CWP but also needs to have the entire diff cage with it's interiors changed to the MGC BTB 841 specs. Ralph |
R.S. Ralph Siebenhaar |
Thank you Kirk, those pics really shows je whole story. Should be a feasible method, I need to ask one of my friend who is a skilled welder. Will the welding weaken the spring pan for xamle. He will have the answers. regards,, Jan |
Jan Emil Kristoffersen |
Kirk, thanks for the measures, it´s good to have a benchmark ! Ralph, good point, if there´s more involved. I had assumed it´s only the CWP that must be changed there. So definitely worth inquiring as an alternative. I have not found anyone in Germany yet who I could ask for the CWP replacement, otherwise, I´d check there as well. Currently following up an idea to work with Declan Burns and another specialist in the Dusseldorf area who could supervise the job but we´d be doing the work ourselves (which I´d much prefer, since I´d learn a lot on the project). Nothing compared to a job done with your own hands ;-), but definitely good to have someone who has done it before to check. Best Regards Mike |
Mike Fritsch |
Your welcome Jan. Glad to help. Kirk |
Kirk Trigg |
Peter Edney has informed me that he never installs MGB spring pans when mounting a sway bar on a TD or TF. To qoute him: "We drill through. The arm is strong enough and doesn't need the ear of the lower pan." The two locator clamps for the bar that LaVerne pointed out as mssing will be forwarded to me, they had been omitted from the package to me by mistake. Any commentson not using B pans? I tend to agree with Edney that the reinforced lower arms he provided will do the job without the B pan ears. regards Jan |
Jan Emil Kristoffersen |
My thoughts would be...if you don't need the "ear hole"...why would the factory go to the trouble of redesigning the pan and not just punch another hole in the original design as Peter suggests? |
MG LaVerne |
LaVerne, I don't see the second hole on Peters Edney's supplied A Arm? - But if the hole for the short arm is nearer the center of the arm and not at the edge as in yours case "MGB" - would it be OK to not have the botom reinforcing on the other side? Seeing as it is reinforced on the front. Just asking all? Rod ![]() |
Rod Jones |
Rod, it's not there. The problem I found was the reinforced link hole on the arm is off center. If you just drill through the original pan and the arm is lined up correctly the hole will fall in the middle of the edge of the pan creating a weak spot. I ordered the B pans. |
Rich (TD 3983) Taylor |
Point taken, regards Jan |
Jan Emil Kristoffersen |
Point taken, regards Jan |
Jan Emil Kristoffersen |
The MGB spring pan uses the stock non gusseted arm on the backside of the pan. Having the ears on both sides and both holes punched allows the pan to be used on either side of the car. While you could use the gusseted arm on the back side as well and a larger bolt I don't see the need there. Also as you show in my pictures Rod, the "ear" lowers the center point and simply drilling a hole in the original pan will most likely leave the bottom of the opening without any metal. Since the arms are secured at the other two locations and the spring provides constant pressure on the pan, there may never be an issue. But I still like the idea of using the B spring pan providing what I believe will be a more ridged structure. |
MG LaVerne |
Recently there was a thread response pointing out deficiencies in the Moss Sway Bar Install Kit. Anybody happen to recall where it is? TIA Bud |
Bud Krueger |
There are a couple of sway bar and links available on ebay right now. Here's one currently at about twenty bucks and fifteen dollars shipping to my location. : Item number: 201220246689 Just copy and paste or do a search. This listing does have a "reserve" however. Kirk |
Kirk Trigg |
I have bids on them at about $30. One doesn't have a reserve. Bud |
Bud Krueger |
Does anyone have a photo of the Bar Clamps that Laverne identified as being missing in the first photo? Regards Rod 54 TF project. |
Rodney G Murray |
Rodney, it was my TD that LaVerne was referring to. I believe he was just saying we used 2 bar clamps to hold the sway bar perfectly in place while we drilled the holes in the dumb iron. They were just regular woodworking type bar clamps but a C-clamp would work as well probably. Ed |
efh Haskell |
I missed both bars on eBay. Anybody have a 5/8" bar for sale? If so, please email me at the above. Bud |
Bud Krueger |
Rodney, I think this may be what you want. I think this is Jim Mertz's car and pic. Kirk ![]() |
Kirk Trigg |
Bud, I have an original MGB bar I will sell you cheap. I will check the size when I get home and send you an email. Rich |
Rich (TD 3983) Taylor |
The items in the plastic bags Rod. Also Items 7 or 8 on this Moss page. 7 263-778 $4.95 LOCATOR PAIR w/hardware RD to (c)360300 1962-74 1/2 2 8 N/A N/A LOCATOR PAIR with hardware RD from (c)360301 on, all GT 1 ![]() |
MG LaVerne |
Thanks for the offer, Rich, but I have all of the pieces for a 5/8" installation. Bud |
Bud Krueger |
Thanks LaVerne: my kit also missing these now on order from Moss:) Best regards Rod 54 TF Project |
Rodney G Murray |
Rich, you have mail (again). Bud |
Bud Krueger |
This thread was discussed between 11/11/2014 and 26/11/2014
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