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MG TD TF 1500 - Arnolt heater powdercoating

I took my heater apart and realized that with the hard-to-get areas and the general spot rusting, I needed to get it sandblasted (as I don't have that equipment). So I took it to my local sandblaster/powdercoater and I was thinking I would have him powdercoat it black, which would give me a nice hard durable finish and a base for me to use the "hammered gold" approach.
In talking to him, he pointed out a color called "hammered bronze" that he had and offered to do the whole job (heater box, heater front, 2 brackets, 3 doors, and fan blade) for $45 if I was willing to wait, so he could tack the job onto a couple of other jobs using the same color. Normally he told me it would take $125 to do the job as a one-off. So I agreed, thinking it would be a month or so, and I was in no rush.
I also figured, hey, if I didn't like the "hammered bronze" finish I could paint over it anyway and do the spray paint "hammered gold" approach that has been discussed on this forum.
2 days later he called back and said it was done.
I have to say, I was blown away by the color and the quality!
I'm going to keep this "hammered bronze" color, I think it looks incredible. But I thought I'd post a picture and see what other people thought and see if it is a close enough match to the original (and I don't know what that looked like, my heater had been repainted in the past).
I'll be reassembling it shortly. But I'm VERY impressed. What do you think?


Geoffrey M Baker

Looks great to me.
MG LaVerne

Beautiful. Wish he were closer, got a few I need done. Larry
Larry Brown

Looks great, Geoffrey. It's a bit more gold than the original colors I've seen, but there was enough variation in the originals that I don't think it's a worry. Most of the original ones I've seen are a bit more brown/copper colored.

BTW, the photo of your heater shows it upside down... and the front flapper has also been installed upside down as well. I base this on the orientation of the Arnolt label which has the peaked part at the top. I think you'll also find the back brackets won't work with the heater in this position.

http://www.ttalk.info/Tech/ARHEAT.JPG
Kevin McLemore

Looks awesome Geoff. I wish my restored heater had that finish.
Rich (TD 3983) Taylor

I have used this product with very good results,,,
Hammerite,,,

http://www.paint-colors.net/store/home.php?cat=30
Steve Wincze

Looks very nice Geoffery! Reminds me that I have to do my Smith later. PJ
Paul S Jennings

Regarding Hammerite Rust Cap Paint -

I used Hammerite Rust Cap rattle-can paint on the heater in my '54 Chevy pickup. I found a color that is very near to the original color. It dries high gloss, super hard and tough, almost like power coat. The hammered finish may be a little strong for some applications, but the paint has the two-tone look of the original paint on the heater. Some people say that the degree of hammered finish can be reduced by light coats (?)

You will probably need to special order from a local paint supplier or order on line. Here are colors and info:
http://www.tcpglobal.com/Aerosol-Paint/Rust-Protection/?gclid=Cj0KEQiA0aemBRC8p87zv_mc5qYBEiQAiEEMQZEYQh_jmiAk1oIWG9OJspriSMB6sh0dA4y22__uAyMaAn7Q8P8HAQ

Lonnie
TF7211

Air-Flow heater in my '54 Chevy pickup

LM Cook

Here is a close up of the original Chevy heater paint in the center and the Hammerite Rust Cap paint around it. Color is close. Original is smoother. Easy to see the hammered texture of Hammerite Rust Cap.

Lonnie
TF7211

LM Cook

Lonnie,

I did the grill of my 46 Chev with the hammered paint, but I didn't get much of the hammered effect like you have. I was painting the truck in November in KY. Do you know if the hammering is temperature sensitive like wrinkle paint? Photo below, but probably not close enough to judge.

Charley

C R Huff

Charley -

Nice looking truck. I especially like Chevy trucks immediately before and after WWII.

I don't know if Hammerite is overly sensitive to temperature. I believe that it has more to do with the thickness of the coat and how close or far the nozzle is from the surface. I always suggest buying an extra can just to experiment and perfect the desired effect before committing to the final spray.

Glad to see another ol' truck guy on the board. Maybe it's a Kentucky thing. I am originally from Bowling Green.

Lonnie
TF7211
LM Cook

Lonnie,

Yes, it may be a Kentucky thing. I did the dash the same color as the body (MGB engine maroon), but if I ever decide to return it to the original color, was that the Hammerite gold or the brown that you used on your interior?

Thanks,
Charley
C R Huff

Hammerite and other hammered paints absolutely *are* temperature sensitive. You want a warm but not hot environment. If it's too cold the hammering won't appear properly because the paint flows too slowly, and if it's too hot it will flash off before the hammering appears. Room temperature is best.

Also, surface prep is really critical as fish-eye really messes things up.
kmclemore

Well, that might explain why I didn't get the texture. I was pusing the limit of cool for doing any kind of painting, but I had to get it done and put it back to work.

Charley
C R Huff

This thread was discussed between 28/01/2015 and 02/02/2015

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