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MG TD TF 1500 - Arnolt heater rebuild for 51TD

OK, I removed the heater from my TD yesterday. That leaves me with a separate problem, I must braze a new hose fitting to my non-original branch pipe, but that's another issue).
I'm very pleased overall with the condition of the heater. The core looks to be in very good shape, the fan motor perfectly functional. It ran at a very respectable speed hooked up to a 12v charger.
But I have some work to do: sandblasting the box and repainting it. Bad news: someone already did this once.
Here are my questions:
1) There are circular cutouts (according to an archive search, these were for possible defrost ducting). Has anyone found plugs that will fit these that are commercially available? The plugs are long since gone.
2) The finish applied over the original bronze paint is a black crackle finish on the box, flat black on the faceplate. I'm wondering what my chances are on the faceplate of removing this at least on the faceplate and saving the original Arnolt lettering, which is not visible? I'm assuming the answer to this is zero, but thought someone might have had some luck with careful swabbing? I will have to repaint the box, at least, perhaps not the faceplate...
3) the doors on the sides and front have metal split pins as hinge points, has anyone found an acceptable replacement? I could of course install small bolts but would rather find something more like the originals.
Geoffrey M Baker

"1) There are circular cutouts (according to an archive search, these were for possible defrost ducting). Has anyone found plugs that will fit these that are commercially available? The plugs are long since gone."

I don't know, Geoff. Athough Home Depot and Lowes both carry plugs in their hardware areas I've never seen one big enough for that opening. Worth a shot to look, though, next time you're there. Failing that, how about just two very large penny/fender washers, one on either side, with a small nut and screw to hold them in place (kind of a sandwich on each side of the case)?

"2) The finish applied over the original bronze paint is a black crackle finish on the box, flat black on the faceplate. I'm wondering what my chances are on the faceplate of removing this at least on the faceplate and saving the original Arnolt lettering, which is not visible? I'm assuming the answer to this is zero, but thought someone might have had some luck with careful swabbing? I will have to repaint the box, at least, perhaps not the faceplate..."

The chances are indeed very nearly zero. The only thing I can suggest is to use your bead blaster (assuming you have one) and run it on low pressure, slowly abrading away the paint over the label area. If you don't have a blaster you can use fine sandpaper but that will take bloody ages. Interestingly, when restoring aircraft at the Paul E. Garber facility for the Smithsonian Museum, they use sandpaper to lightly sand away each layer on the *entire plane* to gather the history of the plane (different paint schemes, insignia and numbers which would denote different units, deployments, fronts, etc.). But, as said, it takes bloody ages and has to be done quite carefully. I think for you, the blaster on a low pressure would slowly wear away the upper layers in a controlled manner. Once you get down to the original label you can then coat it with a satin/semi-gloss coat to bring back the original lustre.

Although preserving the original label, assuming it's still present, is far preferable, reasonably proper Arnolt decals are available and not very expensive.

"3) the doors on the sides and front have metal split pins as hinge points, has anyone found an acceptable replacement? I could of course install small bolts but would rather find something more like the originals."

When I restored mine I carefully removed the split pins, straightened them and used them again - they seemed to hold up fine. If they're not reusable, split pins in a small diameter can be found at NAPA or most auto suppliers - if too long they're easily cut to length. Be careful when disassembling, though - you may not have noticed but there's a small split-washer between the two flanges on each joint - this stiffens the flapper so that it doesn't just fall down. They are tiny and easily missed and dropped to the floor as you take it apart. Don't ask how I know. :)

Good luck with your restoration. If you look in the archives you can see photos of my restoration and some progress along the way... perhaps it will be helpful. There's also tips there on how to repaint it the proper colour.
Kevin McLemore

"reasonably proper Arnolt decals are available and not very expensive."

Where are these available? I have an Arnolt heater that is missing the label entirely...
David Littlefield

David, I just ordered one from Ben Cordsen at sculptart@hotmail.com for $10.95
Geoffrey M Baker

Kevin, you were right, chances were zero. Using a very fine sandpaper, I commenced gentle sanding and immediately hit bare metal. Not a trace of lettering; I'm assuming someone sandblasted it or stripped it prior to repainting. I've ordered the decal.
Thanks for the advice!
Geoffrey M Baker

In fact, I think my heater is a bit of a Frankenstein. The front is a classic Arnolt (with the original paint visible on the rear side) but I think the doors are all replacements. They have (rather nice) ivory bakelite knobs instead of just having a stamped metal flange for opening; and the paint seems to have aged very differently from the other parts of the heater.
Geoffrey M Baker

Geoffrey, how big are the holes? I'm wondering if electrical knock-out plugs (should be able to find them up to 2+ inches) would serve? Jud
J K Chapin

Just measured them at 1 7/8 inches
Geoffrey M Baker

Hmmm. I'll see if I can find a knock-out plug for a hole intended for 1-1/2 conduit and see if it would work. Probably turn out to fill a 1-3/4 hole and not work but worth a look. Jud
J K Chapin

Stimson's Fastners lists what you need:

http://www.stimpson.com/hole-plugs/standard-hole-plugs/

So does Apex:

http://www.apexfasteners.com/fasteners/spring-steel-fasteners/hole-plugs-plug-buttons/hole-plugs

Not sure if you can buy direct or through a distributor, but perhaps worth a ring up?
Kevin McLemore

Geoffrey -

I have the Arnolt heater that a previous owner had in my TF over 20 years ago. Doubt that I will ever reinstall it, but I will restore it someday. I bought an Arnolt decal from Ben Cordsen.

The front door of the heater has an ivory knob like you describe. A quick Google search didn't turn up any photos of other Arnolt heaters with a knob. It looks like the door can be hinged at the top or the bottom.

I feel that the heater is the same as it was when the PO bought it, except that it is black. The ribs on the body are stamped; not cast.

Lonnie
TF7211

LM Cook

Lonnie, mine sounds the same as yours. As you say, it can be hinged at the top or bottom. What surprises me is that the doors are not a very precise fit; the door on the front has narrow rounded corners at the top and wide rounded corners at the bottom while the frontspiece door cutout has narrow rounded corners all around. And the paint on the door doesn't come close to matching the frontspiece. Still, it will all look good when complete.
The frontspiece looks cast but the body is all stamped spotwelded lighter material.
I've ordered two 2" electrical knockouts off ebay and will see if those make good plugs; otherwise I'll probably machine something on my lathe.
Kevin, I think you have to order 5000 to buy direct from those guys... anybody need 4998 2 inch plugs? :)
Geoffrey M Baker

This thread was discussed between 23/01/2015 and 24/01/2015

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