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MG TD TF 1500 - Attaching Tub to Chassis - Help needed

I have just come in from spending some time working on attaching the Tub to the Chassis and I have a few questions that I would really appreciate some help with.

1 Are there pads between the Tub and Chassis and if so what have people used. I have tried Neoprene, petrol tank rubber but decided on radiator hose. Seams to work ok.

2 Do the floorboards sit on top of the bolts used to attach the chassis to the tub or do you make cut outs for the bolts. I can't imagine the bolts go through the floorboards as well.

3 I appear to have a spare hole in the Tub that doesn't connect to the chassis. Is this something others have. It can be seen in the photo. Just before the rollover bar!

4 Just to confirm the drive shaft tunnel also seen in the photo attaches directly to the chassis.

If anyone can give me any help with any of these I would be very happy.
Thanks guys.
Darryl

D Lamb

Darryl, My floor boards are routed out just deep enough to except the bolt heads. By doing it that way the bolts are hidden with no notches in the floor. A V notch is cut in to except the speedo drive, the transmission cover hides it.
I used neoprene shims to adjust the tub so the doors work freely and supply a small amount of cushioning from tub to chassis. No water is adsorbed by the shims.
I have a couple spare holes not used on the tub angles also.
Yes the tunnel bolts directly to the angle frame work as yours is.
From what I see, your doing a great job of restoring your car! How about a big picture! PJ
Paul S Jennings

Hi Darryl,

I made shims to put between the body and chassis from plastic 2 litre milk containers. They have some resilience but are not too soft, are thin enough to give fine adjustment, will not hold water and corrode and are free! It is a good idea to start with reasonably thick shim packs so if you need to you can remove some. My brother who is also restoring a TF managed to get his doors swinging without any packing but later found they were binding and there were no shims he could remove.


Jan T
J Targosz

Darryl, don't bother to tighten up the bolts that attach the body to the chassis. To fit the doors properly, there will be a need to place shims between the two main components. It will be a trial and fit operation requiring much patience and time which include place shims, tighten bolts, undo some and try again. It can be a pain. Initially, I used washers of various thicknesses in several places to make the body twist in the needed direction to have the doors fit. When all was satisfactory, I use one piece of flat white plastic of some kind (nylon?)and added metal shims of the determined thickness above the plastic to eliminate squeaks.
The photo of my car shows the same hole (unused) in my TD.
The floorboards have a relief above each body bolt head cut by using a router. No holes as shown on my new floorboards.
All the best and patience is the watchword.
The floorboard photo follows.

Jim Merz

Thanks Guys this all helps a lot. Paul attached is a photo of where I am now. Putting it all together before its painted in order to sort out panel fit. Ensure I have all the correct bolts and all the holes are drilled and in the correct place but above all to ensure I know how to put it together. I don't want to scrape any newly painted panels. As you can see I don't have a lot of room.

D Lamb

Floorboard Photo

Jim Merz

I have to tell you guys I am blown away with the response. The fact that I can come in from a days work on the car post a couple of queries and have them answered within a couple of hours by interested people doing a similar job. The power of the Internet. Thanks again.
D Lamb

This thread was discussed on 07/12/2014

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