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MG TD TF 1500 - Bearings and Rings Quality Brands

My research suggests that both County and Hastings brands are definitely to be avoided when rebuilding an XPAG engine (or any engine for that matter). Can someone personally recommend a manufacturer or supplier here in Australia of top quality rings and bearings? I'm aware of the excellence of Vandevall and ACL, but I'm yet to check out their availability here. I'd appreciate input from experienced engine builders. Thanks to those who've contacted me off line for providing me with some really good advice. Much appreciated. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Peter
Most if not all failures of engine parts like rings and bearings are caused by the installer not the product itself--

My choice-- Hastings rings -ACL bearings

what sizes are you after

William Revit

Hi Willy, I'd heard there were issues with the width of the Hastings rings, though this could have something to do with the piston groove wear. I'm a bit relieved to hear that Hastings may be OK as the choice of suppliers here isn't great. I'll be able to answer the size question once I and my machinist mate get together in the next few days and determine the next step. The 4/44 crank looks amazing considering the journals are at the factory specified original diameter. We'll need to check for ovality. Pistons are also standard and seem pretty good. Three of the four are original, with #3 being the odd one out. All in all a rare thing indeed.

The block is at 69.5 mm and may respond to a light hone instead of the anticipated re-sleeve. If so I'll need a set of pistons. So it comes down to sleeve the block to accept the standard 4/44 pistons OR hone the block and buy a set of oversize pistons to suit. I'm out of my depth here so I'll be guided by those who have more knowledge than I. Cost is a significant factor. The HP gain or loss isn't as massive as most people think. I'll be using the block in conjunction with a head that has had a fair bit of work and is shaved to the max. I may have found a source of NOS original main and big end bearings, that have been siting on a shelf for half a century. Size and maker unknown at this stage, but I'll have a better idea tomorrow. Thanks mate.
Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

If you hone, make sure you use a ridge reamer to remove the unworn ridge at the very top of the bore. If you don't, the top ring will strike it and break itself or the piston. I learned this lesson many years ago. Make sure you crack test the crank. Definitely search out for NOS bearing shells. There have been a few Vandervell bearings on ebay and around here in the US recently. No way I would sleeve- many possible complications and you are removing a lot of metal, etc. George
George Butz III

Everyone has personal favorites, but I have never had anything but positive experiences buying piston rings from Deves rings here in the US. I had multiple sets of Hastings rings that either didn't fit (ring width) or never seated, and switched to Deves after a good discussion with the owner.

I still look for NOS Vandervell bearings on eBay, and have never gone wrong.

Tom Lange
MGT Repair
t lange

I do like Hastings. Here is more information on bearings from Basil Adams on FB MG Octagon Car Club file section:

https://lookaside.fbsbx.com/file/Bearings%20by%20Basil%20Adams.pdf?token=AWwPWmI5O-3wTK3vDo-WegpIwyWj_PY-nbQEh7NmipYXFgfRWQHYRbvXY6rC98znCCNNgKeHdf4oRDrWr97u7R2hRf8maf3pc_J_OkNlYQOhmCUrkHwX1fHJMQne4iucGNtBqqxbcnAUyLFqtxFZBofhcj5AzrRjk-L9CObD4O9__w

Len Fanelli

You will need to copy and paste the link in your search engine.
Len Fanelli

I agree with William! ( The "Up" side markings on Hastings rings are not very visible, with my eyes, the instructions should be more specific)
Len Fanelli

Peter
I think you have answered your own question --
Why would you sleeve a block back to take an odd 3-1 secondhand set of pistons
If they were something really special you might---

As far as Hastings rings being the wrong width, that's up to your engine man to make sure he gets the right ones , it's not hard

As far as Hastings(or any other)rings not bedding in, it's usually a case of the ring gaps were too tight and the rings get scuffed up or someone has used chrome rings without a good hone and expected them to magically bed in--won't happen
I'm a real fan of cast iron top rings in these engines
William Revit

Thanks to all who've replied. If the bores are OK and + 125" pistons suit, then that's the way to go. I believe this is the limit before the bore walls are reckoned to be too thin. I have been directed to a supplier here in Oz who can supply the new pistons and rings as a set. That should take care of any seating problems. He uses Hastings rings and King bearings and reports no issues. The piston/ring set is $550 AU approx and the main and big end bearings, a bit less than $200 AU. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Peter. I thought you already had an engine in place for your TD? Are you building a spare?
W A Chasser

If not boring cylinders, as in re ringing an existing bore, the cylinders must be deglazed with a ball type hone.
Len Fanelli

Yeah Bill, I have an early block that is pretty close in number to mine. With Covid I can't travel the 8 klms to get to the garage to work on the car without risking a big fine, currently $1,000! So I thought I'd use the phone and the internet to arrange for the rebuilding of a back up. I've had some of the gear for a while now and this includes the original gearbox from 5801 that came from the guy who restored the car in 1962; and because it was in such good nick he kept the box for his own use when he sold the car in 1967. It's only done 80,000 original miles. He's as keen as I am to see 5801 back on the road. I have a near new Clive mild race cam and the usable bits from a complete 4/44 engine that I purchased about 8 years ago, including a standard crank in amazing condition. I also have the original 5801 head, as the 62/67 owner spent quite few quid on it way back when and also kept it when he sold the car.

The car that I'm about to register, 5801, has the original + 040" block, roller lifters and roller street cam, bigger valve springs, another worked head and TF 1500 valves and unleaded seats.

I also have a flywheel and ring gear (coming down from QLD for the rebuild), NOS pressure and driven plate, bell housing and thrust bearing, clutch gear, one of my reconditioned 24433 water pumps, a dizzy, original genny as well as a TD sump in great condition. Pretty much everything I need to bolt straight in if I have issues with the current set up. I posted a thread earlier which is halfway down the current list with more detail on the rebuild. By all means have a read but it's best to let that one slide though, as it apparently has too many posts! I'll give you more detail on that off line. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

This thread was discussed between 28/04/2020 and 29/04/2020

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