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MG TD TF 1500 - Block drain sill cock leaks...

I have a branf new sill cock installed in my block drain hole which replaced one that dripped out of the end of the spigot. This new one leaks too! It leaks out of the bottom of the tapered insert where the spring and circlip are. At this point I'm getting pretty tired of this leak and would prefer to just install a bolt with a fiber washer behind it. Has anyone else tried that?

Note... I suspect I could lap the tapered plug and get it to seal, but I HATE working in that area. It is just so tight.
Alex Waugh

Alex
The only way to have a chance of getting it to seal is to lap the spigot to the body.
You can remove the whole tap and do it on the bench.

I think I did mine whilst watching TV and to make the task easier. :)
Rod Jones

I've had too many of them leak and have now got a new solution... here's what I cam up with:

So here's what I found out from Moss. The threads are 1/8th BSPP (Brittish Standard Pipe Parallel). I did a quick web search and found TIttan fittings in Colorado. They have a hex head plug and sealing washer available in that thread pitch. The part numbers are as follows:

Hex head plug: SS-9030-02
Sealing gasket: SS-9500-02

Link to the two parts:

Plug
http://www.titanfittings.com/stainless-steel-bspp-hex-head-plug-p/ss-9030.htm

Gasket
http://www.titanfittings.com/bspp-bonded-seal-stainless-p/ss-9500.htm

I'm not sure what the hex head is. I'll find out when it arrives in the mail. An interesting side note, the total cost of these two fittings is less than the cost of the sill cock from Moss!

I have always thought the sill cock was a very elegant design and if I could have one that sealed correctly, I would totally keep it. However, I'm just too tired of all the leaks. For the few times I drain the fluid, it's not that hard to just remove a bolt from the block. I'll post up some pictures when I get it in the mail.

Rod... I may decide to keep my current one and lap the tapered valve lever just to see if I can make it seal. But that is a very low priority at present.

Thanks all...

Alex
Alex Waugh

Let me get my crying towel out for you. :-)

L E D LaVerne

Alright LaVerne, you win. That's MUCH harder to reach than mine. However, coming up from the bottom might still be the easier way for both of us.

I just placed my order for the plug. I'm looking forward to getting rid of that leak.
Alex Waugh

Alex
1 Grind the taper in with jewellers rouge Fine grinding paste is much too course
2 Solder the outlet up It looks nicer than a plug and is easier to remove
3 Give the top of the tap a sharp tap ( on the bench not in the block)
to help itself seat on the taper
Hope this helps
John
J A Davies

John,

Thanks for the suggestion. I disagree with the easier to remove bit. I have always been annoyed at how short the hex head is on this tap. The flat grind in the block leaves a shoulder above the hole which makes the wrench not fit. My hex head plug solution will allow me to fit a socket on it and install and removal will be a snap. I'll update when I install it.

Alex
Alex Waugh

Just remove it and use JB weld to plug it. Replace it and go on.
Even if you use it to "drain" coolant, You could just remove it to drain.
It looks very good on the block.
M Grogan

If there was ever crud built up in the valve, this can cause the tapered cone to become scored. If deep enough, that score will always leak. If it is shallow enough, it can be ground smooth as mentioned above. But if it is too deep, the only solution is a replacement.
Lew Palmer

The most recent replacement seals enough not to leak out the spout but rather leaks out the bottom of the valve where the taper penetrates and has the spring and circlip. I love the idea of the valve. It is an elegant solution and us quite pleasant to use when draining the block. I just can't take all the leaks associated with the fitting. I've already bought the parts to switch over to a plug. They are scheduled for delivery this friday.
Alex Waugh

I ordered the 3rd one. This will be the last turn. Since now all have been leaking out the bottom of the valve where the taper penetrates and has the spring and circlip. Because I love the idea of the valve too I'll solder the input of the valve if leaking at this point will lasting.
W_Mueller

Even the new valves may have to be ground in. There is no guaranteed that they won't leak without doing so. The inside taper in the body and the outside taper on the handle have to be a perfect fit. Rarely will the manufacturer take the time to ensure a tight fit.
Lew Palmer

Lew

how can I ground in the valve?
W_Mueller

The 3rd one leaks also. I'd soldered the input and now I have a plug which looks like the tap.

W_Mueller

To grind in the taper, remove (and don't lose) the cotter pin, spring, and washer from the bottom of the taper. Then using a bit of very fine grinding paste or jewelers rouge, smear it around the side of the taper. Reinsert the taper into the valve body and work back and forth until you have a smooth surface on both the valve body and taper. Repeat as necessary. Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly, as they say. Check by blowing air through the threaded end of the valve with the valve in the closed position. If air cannot go through, neither can water.
Lew Palmer

Thank you Lew

I'll give then a chance.
W_Mueller

This thread was discussed between 30/05/2017 and 05/06/2017

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