MG-Cars.info

Welcome to our Site for MG, Triumph and Austin-Healey Car Information.

Parts

MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG TD TF 1500 - Brake/Clutch Interference in Pedal Box

Last winter I bought a set of Declan's Rose jointed linkages for Lazarus' clutch. Beautiful workmanship, but I have a glitch to work out. I've discovered an odd interference situation be the clutch pedal and the brake pedal. I'm pretty sure that is being caused by components inside of the pedal box.
If I put the brakes on by themselves all is SOP until I depress the clutch while the brakes are being applied. The brakes will not completely release until I depress the clutch pedal.

I really don't know how long this situation has existed. I've only noticed it since I went into the pedal box to install the Rose-jointed clutch rod. Declan sent me a clevis pin adapter to try, but it's still occurring. At the moment I'm running a hybrid setup with Declan's upper clutch rod and new OEM lower rod.

I need to get my hands on a fiber optic viewer to see what's going on in the pedal box. Anybody else ever run into this? Bud
Bud Krueger

I had the opposite, every time I changed gear the car would jerk. The clevis pins were incorrect and interfered with each other.As I depressed the clutch it touched the brake one and momentarily slowed the car.
I know LHD cars have a different layout than RHD but might be worth a look.
Ray TF 2884
Ray Lee

That's about what I'm suspecting, Ray. Lazarus was built in early October '51 when they were switching from cable to rod clutch linkages. Which also means that it doesn't have the convenient large hole in the floor of the pedal box to reach (and peek) through. Bud
Bud Krueger

Bud,

I had the same situation and found that my setup was missing the spacer between the two pedal units.

Jim
James Neel

I was going to say the spacers also.
Harbor Fright has a camera on a stick with a 3 inch screen.
This is great for looking into the box.
Very useful else where also.
M Grogan TD23816

Bud, I had a similar "experience" with my TF. Had to jamb the left boot under the clutch and kick the brake pedal with the right boot. Damn thing is a handful in suburban driving as it is!
The pedal box gets a lot of road muck into it. A squirt of WD40 will free the pedals up but is only a temporary fix. Regular chore is to put a few drops of engine oil on the pedal shaft and six monthly clean the whole lot.

Kev S
TF6288
K Simonsen

Thanks for the comments folks. I know that the spacers are in there. I hadn't thought about the simple need for lubrication. When I rebuilt the pedal box I cut the spiral grooves into shaft. I have to admit that I can't recall the last time that I gave the fitting a shot with my grease gun.

Off to an outing with some folks from the former SEMGTR in a few hours. Don't really feel up to getting into the coveralls and putting Lazarus up on the ramps this early in the a.m. I'll have to let it wait until next week. Thanks again, folks. Bud
Bud Krueger

Bud,
I have the attached inspection camera if you would like to borrow it.
Mort

https://www.amazon.com/Whistler-Camera-Accessory-Kit-WIC-100P/dp/B0092VTZN6

Mort Resnicoff

Thanks, Mort. You have mail. Bud
Bud Krueger

Bud
First

Mort Resnicoff

Bud,
Second

Mort Resnicoff

Don't know if it will work for your project ...

You can get a borescope/endoscope with LED lights that broadcasts to your smartphone via WiFi for $30 - $50. Works well enough for me.

I bought this one that has a stiff cable. Promo sounds like a late night infomercial. ($50)
6000 Wireless HD Borescope
http://thetechgarage.info/

I bought this one with a less stiff cable for a friend. ($30)
OKEER 1200P WiFi Borescope
http://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Endoscope-Borescope-Inspection-Smartphone/dp/B074QLGZG1

Many more to choose from on Amazon.

Lonnie
TF7211
LM Cook

I have one of the OKEER scopes arriving tomorrow. Hard to pass up for $30. Bud
Bud Krueger

DEPSTECH arrived this afternoon. My fingers are crossed. I don't really speak cellphone that well. More later. Bud
Bud Krueger

Wow!! It works. Hopefully, I can put it to use tomorrow and see what's going on in the pedal box. Bud
Bud Krueger

Found the problem, and it's not in the pedal box. It's the draft excluder!! This Spring I replaced the excluder since the old one was split. The one that I got from Abingdon Spares was a pain to install. I had to heat it up and use great gobs of generic K-Y jelly to get it on. It's much thicker than the old one, about twice as thick. It measures .2" at the base. I guess that an option may have been to install a heavier brake return spring in the pedal box (no thanks). Here's an image of the new one compared with the old one. Bud
BTW, A/S no longer has it in their parts list. It seemed like an old package.


Bud Krueger

The old excluder only looks to be split in a few places. If it isn't that bad, would it be worth giving it a good wash to remove any oil or grease, then using superglue on the splits.
R WILSON

I found superglue solved the problems for me, it’s now been insitu for 18 months
J A Davies

Unfortunately, I threw it out. Its split was between the pedals. Bud
Bud Krueger

I spoke with Abingdon Spares. They're sending me another excluder to try out. They said that theirs are 3/16" thick. If I have to, I'll split the thick one down the middle, between the horns, and attach a flap made from old inner tube rubber.
I may get to successfully install Declan's Rose-joint system after all. Bud
Bud Krueger

The new excluder that A/S sent to me is the same as the one that I had problems with. I'm sending their second unit back with my thanks.

All is well, now. I took a sharp blade and split the excluder down the middle between the two 'mountains'. This did the trick. They are now independent of each other and there is no crosstalk. I don't see any need to cover the slot. Big difference. Image below. Bud

Bud Krueger

I would think a serious problem is that the top convolute up each pedal does not go all the way round - they are flat on the insides, so will not flex. The one in my car is a bit like your old one, with two good convolutes up each pedal. However, I think the gaiter (draught excluder) would be even better with only two base convolutes, and three good convolutes up each pedal.
R WILSON

Reactivating re: Pedal Excluder thread 9/9/21 Bud
Bud Krueger

Reactivate
Bud
Bud Krueger

"That's about what I'm suspecting, Ray. Lazarus was built in early October '51 when they were switching from cable to rod clutch linkages. Which also means that it doesn't have the convenient large hole in the floor of the pedal box to reach (and peek) through. Bud"

My July 11, 1951 built car, owned since July 1977, has always had a rod operated clutch but I suppose it could have been changed from a cable type before my ownership. Was this change over one of those very slow blended change overs?
John Quilter (TD8986)

I couldn't tell you, John. When I found Lazarus in September, 1988, he had been (unsuccessfully) Volvoized at some time in his life. It didn't have the large hole on the bottom of the box. Bud
Bud Krueger

This thread was discussed between 23/03/2018 and 12/09/2023

MG TD TF 1500 index

This thread is from the archives. Join the live MG TD TF 1500 BBS now