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MG TD TF 1500 - Brake Line

I am going to replace the right front metal brake line (181-050).

What do I need to do in preparation?

What is the procedure to remove and replace?

Do the threads need a sealant or just tighten them up well?

Do I drain the reservoir or just open a fitting and waste what comes out?

TIA,
Mort
Mort 50 TD

Really clean the fittings before removing, you don't want any dirt to get in the lines. Nice to use a flare nut or line wrench to remove, mandatory when tightening the new fittings to avoid rounding. No sealant, the flares just mate and seal. I think the front 3 way is fairly low, so good chance air will enter the system. Unless the MC fluid is almost new, better to just bleed the whole system when finished. Sometimes the flares on the old lines are mushroomed out and are hard to remove from the fittings. Unless silicone fluid, the fluid is a great paint remover so be careful with spillage. George
George Butz

You just unscrew the old one and screw in the new one. Don't use any sealer or anything like that on the threads.

If you have to form the line, get a bending tool (Harbor Freight has them). If you just do it by hand, it's easy to kink the line.

You will have to bleed at least the right front brake, possibly the left too. This might be a good time to replace the brake fluid throughout, if it hasn't been done for a while.

Be careful with the brake fluid. It will damage paint.
S Maas

I never use an sealants. It is a compression fitting.

Make sure you have fluid and a mechanism to bleed the brakes such as tubing and a glass jar or second person.

Also make sure when you pump the fluid you don't exhaust the supply or you will have to bleed the entire system instead of just the brake you are working on.

I would also look at the fluid when you bleed or drain and see how it looks and if there is any dirt etc. If so you should flush the whole system.
Christopher Couper


If you need to remove or loosen any of the copper washers that seal things, replace them wit new ones.

Jim B.
JA Benjamin

I'll amend what the others have said a bit. As said, do not apply anything to aid sealing, the flair should do this alone. I do recommend putting a bit of anti-seize on the threads to facilitate removal in the future. Also to the bleeder nipple threads if you can back them out far enough.

You'll need to re-use the old fittings if you're making new lines/flairs.

....
MAndrus

I just replaced all of my brake lines fairly recently Mort. I used Cunifer, a copper, nickel, ferrous alloy used in all top end cars today. It's easy to work so no bending tool needed & it will never rust. Essential to use a flaring tool that produces a double flare. It's a compression fitting so no sealant is required. The Chinese made flare nuts are too short so just clean up the originals & reuse. Also essential to bleed the brakes on completion. This enables you to check the condition of the fluid at each of the wheel cylinders. Dot 4 is hygroscopic & so lines will begin to rust internally especially after your winter layup. This dirty brown fluid is then often evident at the wheel cylinders. If so a flush is in order. I've heard of the common steel bundy lines occasionally bursting under pressure due to internal rust, so I opted for Cunifer. Cheers
Peter TD 5801.
P Hehir

This thread was discussed on 09/07/2015

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